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Description

Life is all about the water! Or is it all about the land? Many have struggled with this dilemma and here you can too. Do you watch the hordes of city folk and their flotilla or does the rock and its intricacies consume you?

This wall is characterised by a massive cave to the left hand side and boasts some rewarding problems and challenging highballs.

Prepare to answer the questions of many elderly/tourists/sailor/dog walkers/fisher people of all types on all manner of topics (but mainly on what you are doing).

Approach

The first chunk of rock you come across as you round the corner of Blues Point. Climbs move from right to left and start at the boarder of the garden where the wall meets the grass and where the skies the limit!

Descent Notes

To set up the top rope problems either take the stairs past the toilet block to make your way up to the top of the crag or climb the sandstone block wall Half way between the two main walls

History

Blues Point love and attention revivd by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave Archer. Brendon and Dave's first united crag development.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V1 Crossing The Void Boulder 5m

Start as for Slap Those Who Stare. Slap your way left and mantle up onto the ledge. Once here traverse to your right and around the back to where you'll find a vertical gutter cutting in the rock. DO NOT touch any part of the gutter while making your way across it, that'd just take away the fun and that's not what Blues Point is about. Finish by making your way down at the next corner.

Can be sandy if there has been little traffic but a adventure non the less!

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

2
V1 Slap Those Who Stare Boulder 5m

First wall you see as you round Blues Point. Slopey arête starting on the right side of the wall. Lose fame by standing on the rock at the start. Move left and up to top out. Disinclined to highball? Get down to the right before the crumbly looking roof for a V0

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
3
V1 Red Cheeked Boulder 5m

Sit start in the scoop to make the most of the solid holds. Mantel up to finish same as Slap Those Who Stare. Dodge the highball and get down to the right for a V0.

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
4
V2 * Smell the Roses Boulder 4m

Good warmup for the V4 & a perfect problem on which to do your first rose. Start the same as ELAP. Keep low as you rose through to the left. Use the two big pockets and crimp to finish on the top ledge. And the bottom rock curb ledge; its out for feet buddy!

FA: 25th Oct

5

Hidden treasure on a wall full of riches

Sit start same as ELAP. Move up to the top of the scoop and then left to the thin crimp. From there use the assortment of rounded side pulls to move up and top out slightly right, same as "STWS" and "RC"

Some challenging moves through the middle.

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014
6
V4 *** ELAP Boulder 3m

Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at Red Cheeked and move up to the top of the scoop before heading left to the little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat.

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
7
V2 Dump Divers Dyno Boulder 3m

As the local disenfranchised types like using this dyno hole as a bin, it might need some cleaning. Boost straight up to jugging ledge. Be cautioned, the bin has teeth of the spidery kind.

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
8

Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux.

Primarily TR climb - but is also a committing boulder. Bouldering FA by Brendon Allan Flanagan with protection on last move.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

9
V5 ** Dislocation Station Boulder 5m

A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP.

Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA:

10

The cherry on the cake of bad @ss traverse

Same as for "Dislocation Station" but once you have stuck the final ledge and your arms are screaming at you, continue to grind your way to the right following the solid ledges.

Finish by reversing "STWS" in a controlled manner

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA:

Set by Matt Short, 29th Oct

11

Start same as Dislocation Station - Climb up pocket filled area behind the park bench and move right along obvious ledge, slapping and smearing.

At large, deep letter box, ascend straight up following drill line near top of the cliff.

Big high ball, with little choss once you blow the dust off the holds.

One of those climbs worth doing once to really get the heart pumping!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA:

12

Facing the rock beneath the high cave start at the far right, just left of the giant root system coming down to the ground. From here traverse around, pass the big scoop and over the buldge. You can either finish at the large drill hole or walk around to the Perfect Flake and finish on this.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

13
V1 Find Your Fingers Boulder 3m

A interesting traverse. Start as for P By The Sea. Traverse right using the undercling at waist hight. continue along until your fingers slip of the sloper undercling at the end.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

14
V1 'Thar She Blows! Boulder 13m

Starting as for PBTS, head straight on up like a whales spout. Finish by topping out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

15
V0 P By The Sea Boulder 3m

Starting at the letter P (graffiti) head up and to the right via the small flake and drill hole tapping out on top.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

16
V2 Hold On Salior Boulder 4m

Start under the bulge between P By The Sea and Letterbox Crack. Only using the holds on that face mantle up and on to the skinny ledge at the top of the bulge.

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
17

Fun beginner Top Rope.

Starting at Letterbox crack, climb straight up, link on to the edge of the cave and finish just above the corner of the cave (brownish water stained rock)

Could be done as Boulder Problem if focused like a fox!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Antoine Smiley, 2012
18
V0 Letterbox Crack Boulder 3m

Follow the crack up using the vertical pockets. Finish by tapping out at the top of the line.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

19

Start 1 metre left of Letterbox Crack at the inward corner cutting. Matching your hands on the slightly overhanging ledge traverse your way along until you've just past the start for Practice Your Mantle Part 2.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

20
V2 Practice Your Mantle Boulder 2m

Between LC and the second drill hole, mantle the small overhang. Very balancy.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

21
V2 ** Grasping For The Wind Boulder 4m

Sit start using first vertical crack line just left of the scoop ( Practice Your Mantle ). Make your way up using the smooth arete to your left. Top out without moving to far left (where the easy holds are).

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
22
V2 ** Rock The Boat Boulder 4m

Sit start at second crack just left of the scoop. Dog leg up and left via big horizontal crack. Use angled cracks staying as close to Grasping For The Wind as possible, while not using its arete. Love the side pull and top out with final solid ledge hold. Keep your eyes open for possible dyno and sneaky toe jam!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012
23
V0 * One Move Wonder Dyno Boulder 2m

A fun and very simple way to practice your confidence with the wolrd of dynos. Keeping your feet low and smearing, match your hands on the solid ledge above, look, leap and lundge for the next ledge up.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

24

Starting 1 meter to the left of the third drill hole, place your feet on the massive break and mantle. Heel hook high left and mantle again to the top. Excellent mantle practice for the beginner.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

25

Start 1 meter left of Practice Your Mantle Part 2. The perfect mantle for the beginner who's never done one before.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

26
V3 * Crimp And Save Boulder 3m

A contrived climb with a powerful technical start

Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds!

Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out.

As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3.

Less is Best!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA:

27
V0 * Perfect Flake Boulder 3m
The name of the climb says it all. Up the flake via some lay back and foot jamming action.

FA: Unknown

28

Start just left of Perfect Flake, in front of the large root infested, chossy crack.

Don't be alarmed - work the crack, without using the crimps on the walls ether side and move up to finish under resilient fig tree.

Complete the full circle by traversing right and down climbing via 'PF'

Better than the choss would have you think!

  • Historical FA: Unknown
  • Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: