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Description

Just 20 or so meters from the left side of the Life Aquatic wall, this smallish cliff boast 6 sweet technical problems incorporating all manner of high kicks, super human pinches and some bad ass out of sync voice overs!

Panda's are not welcome...

Approach

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) until the cliff line takes better form (not so staggered and crumbly). Begin your ancient nose breaking art!

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V1 Easy Up Boulder 3m

start just left of the obvious black streak as the wall begins to go vertical

Slab style, with some deceptive, flakey holds. Move up and to the left to finish along the shared ledge hold of PFTS and MM. Good for a warm up or cool down.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

2
V1 * Piked From The Start Boulder 3m

Inspired by a Pike - 'flying through the air with both legs and arms pointed in one direction" Lay back the first move just left of Easy Up and move straight up to end slightly left along sandy ledge. Fun moves

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

3
V2 ** Monkey Magic Boulder 3m

Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse.

No using magic clouds...

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

4
* Project 1 Boulder Project 3m

Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs

Completed Sept 9 2012 using the bottom hold of Monkey Magic.

5
V1 Fingers Full of Steel Boulder 3m

Start in the Vertical Crack and use it to get up and under the chossy roof. Use the crack all the way for best results.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

6
Project 2 Boulder Project

Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required!

7
V4 *** Bruce Lee Boulder 3m

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://www.facebook.com/the.ranger.dave?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=10152299590625393

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012