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Table of contents

1. Kung Fu Captin Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203192, -33.849903

Description:

Just 20 or so meters from the left side of the Life Aquatic wall, this smallish cliff boast 6 sweet technical problems incorporating all manner of high kicks, super human pinches and some bad ass out of sync voice overs!

Panda's are not welcome...

Approach:

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) until the cliff line takes better form (not so staggered and crumbly). Begin your ancient nose breaking art!

Ethic: inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Up

start just left of the obvious black streak as the wall begins to go vertical

Slab style, with some deceptive, flakey holds. Move up and to the left to finish along the shared ledge hold of PFTS and MM. Good for a warm up or cool down.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m Tristan 11 months ago

The flakes in the moves up the face were cool but the top lip Traverse was chossy shit.

Ranger Dave 1 years ago

simple warm up

2 * Piked From The Start

Inspired by a Pike - 'flying through the air with both legs and arms pointed in one direction" Lay back the first move just left of Easy Up and move straight up to end slightly left along sandy ledge. Fun moves

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m Tristan 11 months ago

I might have liked the previous route better and the sit start doesn't really add anything to the...

Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Excellent problem. All moves make the problem worth while. Officially my favourite problem at Blu...

3 ** Monkey Magic

Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse.

No using magic clouds...

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m Tristan 11 months ago

quite enjoyable close in and sort of powerful at the start.

Ranger Dave 1 years ago

Tricky, but with good holds. Technical and satisfying to the core

4 * Project 1

Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs

Completed Sept 9 2012 using the bottom hold of Monkey Magic.

Boulder Project 3m Ranger Dave 1 years ago

Its been a while... Starting to build on the opening move. Solid body contortions! pinches to a s...

Ranger Dave 1 years ago

Tough starting move. The little vertical crimpers have teeth and some serious balance is required...

5 Fingers Full of Steel

Start in the Vertical Crack and use it to get up and under the chossy roof. Use the crack all the way for best results.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m Tristan 11 months ago

crack that is not great but alright

Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Needs more traffic to clean it up but otherwise an ok problemo.

6 Project 2

Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required!

Boulder Project Ranger Dave 1 years ago

Ack! a hold broke off mid climb. This may have just jumped up a grade... Balance and finger stren...

7 *** Bruce Lee

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://www.facebook.com/the.ranger.dave?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=10152299590625393

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V4Boulder 3m Tristan 11 months ago

Awesome balance on slopers. Nearly completed.

Ranger Dave 1 years ago

If love where a climb this would be it...

Swooning? What!? sure... you caught me!

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V1 Easy Up Boulder 3m
Fingers Full of Steel Boulder 3m
* Piked From The Start Boulder 3m
V2 ** Monkey Magic Boulder 3m
V4 *** Bruce Lee Boulder 3m
? * Project 1 Boulder Project 3m
Project 2 Boulder Project