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Description

Also known as the perverts wall, this pocketed cliff keeps you partially hidden in the undergrowth. Be prepared for surprise and shock as passersby respond to your shirtless figure grunting on the cliff face. Maybe you'll be so lucky as for them to be young, good looking girls, who didn't call the cops, but instead called you over to drink wine at their picnic (good part of a true story - bad part is that their boy friends soon joined them)

Not suitable for real perverts or people wanting to have a coal BBQ...

Approach

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) untill the cliff line moves into the garden. Enter and begin your dubious practice! Climbs are from right to left and start just left of the Giant Jurassic Park Vines/Roots.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
Project 3 Boulder Project 4m

just left of Jurassic tree root.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

2
V3 *** Coal Train Blues Boulder 5m

After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.

With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.

This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!

Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

3
Project 1 Boulder Project 5m

Starting just left of Coal Train Blues, use the side pull and undercling to boost up to the angled crimpers. Shares no common holds with CTB.

4
Project 2 Boulder Project 5m

Start with hands on the two obvious crimpers a bit above head height. Move straight up and slightly left. No shared holds with Project 1

5
V6 *** Pockets of Power Boulder 4m

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

6
V3 ** Saved By Ents Boulder 4m

Start in front of square cut out a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging tree and grass. Keep an eye out for a sneaky indent on the last hold

If good ol' mother nature has reclaimed that ledge (i.e covered it with dirt), then reach out to your friends the Ents, clean up the holds and nail it on your second attempt. If going for the Onsight, clean before climb

For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge, before using the Ents to top out. Down climb is best to the left

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

7
V3 Tilted Traverse Boulder 6m

Start to the right of Project 3 at two crimps on the same flake (a bit lower than head height). Move left, into the scoop, using the holds which are all at head height.

Finish standing up to the left of the vertically rectangular cut out (2nd one).

Nice traverse with slight overhang.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012