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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 151.203071, -33.849786
Also known as the perverts wall, this pocketed cliff keeps you partially hidden in the undergrowth. Be prepared for surprise and shock as passersby respond to your shirtless figure grunting on the cliff face. Maybe you'll be so lucky as for them to be young, good looking girls, who didn't call the cops, but instead called you over to drink wine at their picnic (good part of a true story - bad part is that their boy friends soon joined them)
Not suitable for real perverts or people wanting to have a coal BBQ...
If you are going for an Onsite or your first send it is recommended that you climb the Jurassic tree root and give the top out to each problem a clean.
Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) untill the cliff line moves into the garden. Enter and begin your dubious practice! Climbs are from right to left and start just left of the Giant Jurassic Park Vines/Roots.
- Ethic: inherited from North Shore
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
just left of Jurassic tree root.
Coal Train Blues
After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.
With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.
This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!
Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...
Sean went to Jesus today
Surprisingly technical. Starting just left of Coal Train Blues, use the side pull and undercling to boost up to the angled crimpers (not the large flake!). Then straight up. Shares no common holds with CTB.
Wait a minute Ned
Combines KJKL and SWtJT. Start L on crimp and R on large side pull. Up to large flake/side pull (hollow!), then R to angled side pull and up. Nice.
Know Jesus, know life
Start with hands on the two obvious crimpers a bit above head height. Move up to obvious flake, then up and slightly left through crimps.
Pockets of Power
Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!
the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work
Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.
Saved By Ents
Start in front of square cutout a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to a slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging trees and grass. Enjoy the last hold and try and top out without aid from the Ents
If going for the Onsight, clean before you climb
For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge. Down climb is best to the left.
Start to the right of Pockets of Power using two crimps on the same flake (a bit lower than head height). Move left, into the scoop, using the holds which are all at head height.
Finish standing up to the left of the vertically rectangular cut out (2nd one).
Nice traverse with slight overhang.
|4||Wait a minute Ned||5m|
|5||Know Jesus, know life||5m|
|Sean went to Jesus today||5m|
|V3||Coal Train Blues||5m|
|Saved By Ents||4m|
|V6||Pockets of Power||4m|