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Description

Some of these climbs were OK about 20 years ago, but now that the track is closed and is an overgrown jungle requiring machetes and napalm to breach it's just not worth the effort. All fixed pro is now nothing more than rusted blobs of history.

The first set of climbs are about 100m left of The Big Block.

Navel Research is another 100m further left.

70 further left, near the point, is also home to the most evil looking crack - C is a large hand sized roof-crack with evil black coloured rock.

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Done as two pitches.

  1. Climb corner system below right arete to a cam and BB belay. Poorly protected.

  2. Up flaky arete from ledge past two BRs.

2
21 * Sunset Arete Trad 8m

Scramble up to ledge below left arete. Swing up the cracks to the right and up the arete.

3
14 Blather Trad 8m

Up the short wall 3m left of Sunset Arete. No pro.

4
26 * Watch This Space Sport 15m, 4

Bulging wall just left of Blather. Up arete then bulging wall.

Up past 3 manky bolts and a manky piton.

5
17 Navel Research Sport 10m, 5

100m left of Watch this Space is a plaque below a short wall.

Up to roof and over into cave. Step right and up.

6
20 C Trad 7m

About 75m left of Navel Research near the point.

The evil looking black roof crack.