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Description

CLIFF UPDATE - July 14 - The cliff top has received a thorough clean by Ranger Dave and Michal Lisa, with all loose rocks removed, anchor points checked and cleared and the bottom of the cliff cleaned up some more.

A refined description of each climb to come!

A collection of easy climbs that are great for beginners wanting to practice unique skills. This cliff holds a layback flake, pinchy slab, vertical crack and two over hang climbs, making a great spot for training

All climbs are Top Rope with Natural Anchors

Best enjoyed in the afternoon as it is a north facing cliff.

Also check out the bouldering further west along the cliff line.

Approach

As you enter into Harold Reid Reserve, drive up the road passing cliffs either side of the car and pull over into the first parking bay on your left. The cliff line is directly in front of you.

Descent Notes

From the top of the cliff there are two options. To the right as you face the cliff edge is the easiest descent via a tight gully. The left is in development and is unstable until cleaned

History

Discovered by Ranger Dave and Michal Lisa Archer in early 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom. Looking at the amazing array of climb types it became quickly apparent that this would be a perfect place to take new climbers - especially once bolted, for lead climb training!

Love it!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Learn to Layback Top rope 6m

Follow the flake all the way, starting at the same spot as Balance and Crimp for an increased challenge

FA: Michal Lisa Capo, 2013

2
18 Balance and Crimp Top rope 7m

climb between the flake on your left and the vertical crack on your right - both are out of bounds.

Fun balancy finish that requires some creativity!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

3
15 We be Jammin Top rope 8m

Vertical crack with optional use of the overhang at the top.

Just laybacking or hand jamin move up the crack, keeping it pure. Once you reach the Roof you have two options - Use the sharp arete to layback up with your feet on BAC, OR with your left hand on the Arete move up the over hang and top out on the face of Clingwrapper

Stroke your dreads once complete!

For the FULL crack satisfaction try avoiding the walls for your footing and join your hands with some crack jamin' - Doing so will boost the grade up to a 16/17

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

4
15 * Clingrapper Top rope 8m

Start just right of We Be Jammin. No need to use the crack. Go up the over hang and love the undercling.

Heel hooks are optional, though may increase the difficultly!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

5
16 * Snoz Saddler Top rope 8m

start just to the left of the black streak.

Climb up to the right hand side of the indented cave, via some balancy moves

Harness the power of the Snoz (nose) above by climbing over it with one foot on either side!

Challenging moves required!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

6
16 * Sundown Showdown Top rope 8m

right most climb, following the arete. slimmer holds at the start with a few reachy moves at the end. A great climb to practice moving your body to optimize your holds

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013