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Description

An array of easy sport and trad climbs. Great for the beginner wanting to practice their leading skills. Climbs have top rope access as well.

This cliff has a layback flake, pinchy slab, vertical crack and two over hang climbs, making it the perfect spot for anyone's training.

A great winter morning crag!

Also check out the bouldering further west along the cliff line at the Brendons Blackboard. A few awesome problems!

Approach

As you enter into Harold Reid Reserve, drive up the road passing cliffs either side of the car. Pull over into the first parking bay on your left, note the picnic table. The cliff line is a 30 second bush bash directly in front of you.

Descent Notes

Once you break through the tree line you'll notice down to your right an access gully with green tape secured to a chockstone with an access rope attached.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

Discovered by Ranger Dave and Michal Lisa Archer in early 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom. Looking at the amazing array of climb types it became quickly apparent that this would be the perfect place to take new climbers wanting to learn sport and trad leading.

Love it!

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 * Learn to Layback Trad 6m

Up to the flake and following it. Caution when placing pro in the vertical crack. Shared lower offs with Balance and Crimp.

First recorded lead ascent Brendon Flanagan 01/01/2016

2
18 * Balance and Crimp Sport 7m, 3

A fun balancy climb requiring some confident crimping with a creative finish to boot.

Stick to the face holds to keep the grade.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2015

3
15 * We be Jammin Trad 8m

The crack left of Clingwrapper.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

First recorded lead ascent Brendon Flanagan 01/01/2016.

Set by Ranger Dave

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

4
15 ** Clingwrapper Top rope 8m

No need to use the crack. Get up to the over hang and love the undercling.

Shared lower offs with Snoz Saddler

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

5
16 ** Snoz Saddler Top rope 8m

Start just to the left of the black streak.

Climb up to the right hand side of the overhang via some balancy moves.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

6
16 * Sundown Showdown Top rope 8m

Right most climb following the arete. Thin holds at the start with a few reachy moves towards the end.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Activity

Check out what is happening in Ranger Daves School Yard For The Gifted Climber.