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Description

CLIFF UPDATE - July 14 - The cliff top has received a thorough clean by Ranger Dave and Michal Lisa, with all loose rocks removed, anchor points checked and cleared and the bottom of the cliff cleaned up some more.

An array of easy sport and trad climbs that are great for beginners wanting to practice their leading skills.

This cliff has a layback flake, pinchy slab, vertical crack and two over hang climbs, making a great spot for anyones training.

A great winter morning crag!

Also check out the bouldering further west along the cliff line at the Brendons Blackboard. A few awesome problems!

Approach

As you enter into Harold Reid Reserve, drive up the road passing cliffs either side of the car. Pull over into the first parking bay on your left, note the picnic table. The cliff line is a 15 second bush bash directly in front of you.

Descent Notes

Once you break through the tree line you'll notice down low to your right green tape secured to a rock. An access rope is attached to this, make your way down to the base of the crag.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

Discovered by Ranger Dave and Michal Lisa Archer in early 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom. Looking at the amazing array of climb types it became quickly apparent that this would be the perfect place to take new climbers wanting to learn sport and trad leading.

Love it!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Learn to Layback Trad 6m

Up to the flake and follow it.

Shared lower offs with Balance and Crimp

FA: Michal Lisa Capo, 2013

2
18 * Balance and Crimp Sport 7m, 3

A fun balancy climb requiring some confident crimping with a creative finish to boot.

Stick to the face holds to keep the grade.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 20th Aug

3
15 We be Jammin Trad 8m

Crack climbing, oh yeah! Laybacking or hand jamin up the crack, keeping it pure. Stroke your dreads once complete!

For FULL crack satisfaction try avoiding the walls for your footing and join your hands with some crack jamin' - Doing so will boost the grade up to a 16/17

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper and Snoz Saddler.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

4
15 * Clingwrapper Top rope 8m

No need to use the crack. Get up to the over hang and love the undercling.

Shared lower offs with Snoz Saddler

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

5
16 * Snoz Saddler Top rope 8m

Start just to the left of the black streak.

Climb up to the right hand side of the overhang via some balancy moves.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

6
16 * Sundown Showdown Top rope 8m

Right most climb following the arete. Thin holds at the start with a few reachy moves towards the end.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013