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Amazing rock, brilliant views and stunning sunsets. Sadly North Sydney Council have placed a ban on all climbing and bouldering at Balls Head Reserve. Signs have been erected at When Crags Collide.
The Council has a "no climbing or bouldering" sign up but that is not stopping the chalk from growing - check the discussion for more details
The focal point of When Crags Collide mirrors that of the legendary Lindfield Rocks, offering some brilliant high ball problems on choss free sensational rock.The remainder of the crag offers bouldering resembling that of The Frontline with overhangs, aretes and sit starts.
Batteries may not be included, but this crag does come with a cool breeze from the harbour on a hot summers afternoon with amazing views to boot! Boulder until the end and enjoy the seriously stunning sun sets out to the west. Come for the bouldering, stay for the sunsets!
Making your way along Balls Head Drive, Waverton, follow the loop road through Balls Head Reserve. Drive past the toilet block and continue past the ample car spaces. You can park here if you wish to enjoy a stroll through mother nature, but if you want to get straight to the bouldering action keep on driving. Continue along the loop road through Balls Head Reserve through one chicane and then park just before the second chicane. From here you'll find the stairs leading down to a nature trail. The big green door in the rock is a feature of Edgar The Elephant boulder.
When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.
When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.
It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.
There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.
Like teenagers the night before the school dance, Brendon Flanagan, Ranger Dave and Radka took to When Crags Collide in April 2013 with great gusto! It appeared that each problem was simply waiting for development. One after the other after the other FA's went up, some more easier than others. The only thing holding these keen and eager developers from finishing the development was time. Sadly there wasn't enough of it in one sitting.
Since the emergence of 'WCC' as one of the best bouldering crags in Sydney, information has reached the developers that this was a favorite spot from the 90's. After being closed by the council in 1996 the route descriptions and FA's have faded into history. If anyone knows these details, we'd be happy to restore the original problems
This crag is a product of the Great Bouldering Boom!
Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!
There are no open trips for this crag
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