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Summary

Amazing rock, brilliant views and stunning sunsets. Sadly North Sydney Council have placed a ban on all climbing and bouldering at Balls Head Reserve. Signs have been erected at When Crags Collide.

Description

The Council has a "no climbing or bouldering" sign up but that is not stopping the chalk from growing - check the discussion for more details

The focal point of When Crags Collide mirrors that of the legendary Lindfield Rocks, offering some brilliant high ball problems on choss free sensational rock.The remainder of the crag offers bouldering resembling that of The Frontline with overhangs, aretes and sit starts.

So there's no need to travel between Lindfield Rocks and The Frontline to boulder what they've got on offer because When Crags Collide has everything a boulderer needs.

Batteries may not be included, but this crag does come with a cool breeze from the harbour on a hot summers afternoon with amazing views to boot! Boulder until the end and enjoy the seriously stunning sun sets out to the west. Come for the bouldering, stay for the sunsets!

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Approach

Making your way along Balls Head Drive, Waverton, follow the loop road through Balls Head Reserve. Drive past the toilet block and continue past the ample car spaces. You can park here if you wish to enjoy a stroll through mother nature, but if you want to get straight to the bouldering action keep on driving. Continue along the loop road through Balls Head Reserve through one chicane and then park just before the second chicane. From here you'll find the stairs leading down to a nature trail. The big green door in the rock is a feature of Edgar The Elephant boulder.

Ethic

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

This area has had a well documented history of climbing since at least the 1970s, and given its convenient and popular location was probably climbed on for at least a decade or two before that (during the period before guidebooks became popular).

What is known with certainty is that this area was included in Mike Law's "Sydney Suburbs and Sea Cliffs Guidebook" (1987), Mike Law's "Sydney and the Sea Cliffs" guidebook (1991), Peter Monks' "Sun, Surf and Sandstone" online guidebook (1997), and Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" guidebook (2001).

None of these publications included detailed route information, and we can thank a motivated group of local climbers for retrospectively adding names and grades to many of the existing problems during 2013, as well as providing the detailed route information found here.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
6
20
6m
2
3
24
3m
1
16
39
4m
4
4
12
4m
2
Hangin Around Boulder
5
8
4m
2

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