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Description

A horse walked into a bar, the bartender said "Why the long face?". OK, so it's a bad joke but this long face offers some short and challenging problems. Don't forget your crash pad and spotter as all problems are top outs which is what makes these problems so amazing to send!

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Approach

Directly to the right of Lindfield With A Water View. Look for the tree stump and the half buried log and you've found the start of the face.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

April 2013 was when the Czech Princess Radka and Sir Brendon Flanagan started to develop this face, which comes with not only amazing top outs but a bad joke as well. Being new to the world of bouldering, Radka realised just how scary scary scary topping out a tricky problem could be. One word...commitment! Radka decided she'd prefer to down climb each problem and hand over the FA's to Brendon. Much to Brendons pleasure he accepted these amazing offers one after the other after the other. Eventually Radkas bouldering skills improved and what should happen? She topped out. Did this make Brendon proud? Yes, he was proud to see the Czech Princess succeed with such an amazing step in bouldering progress. Did this make Brendon sad? Yes, he missed out on an FA. Good with the bad people, good with the bad.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Starting at the far left of the face follow slope up to an amazing and committing top out. Seriously fun problem!

2
V0 Sharing The Crash Pad Boulder 3m

Start 2 meters right of Don't Touch My Boobies. Up the 'ladder holds' and top out.

3

Start half a meter right of Sharing The Crash Pad. Find the hidden finger pocket above and top out.

4

Using the holds for Project 1 with your left hand, reach up to your right to find the tiny finger pocket for your right hands middle finger. Find some good footers and perform a dyno. Slap the top away, head up and top out.

5
V1 Follow My Chalk Boulder 3m

Start 3 meters right of Sharing The Crash Pad. Match your hands, head up and mantle out.

6
V1 Wiggle Your Toe Boulder 2m

Start 1.5 meters to the right of Follow My Chalk. Put your left toe in the pocket, lay back on the crimper, head up and top out.

7
V1 Oh Golly Miss Molly Boulder 2m

Start half a meter right of Wiggle Your Toe. Using the crimpers head up and top out.

8

Start 1 meter right of Oh Golly Miss Molly. Do not stand on the trunk! Using the friendly holds head up and top out.

9

Start 1 meter right of That's Chloe With A C.H. Head up and top out.

10

Start 1 meter right of Seriously Sensational Sunset. At the obvious featured wall head up and top out.

11
V1 The Leftorium Boulder 2m

Start 1 meter right of It's All About The Topping Out People. Starting beneath the scoop make your way up. To climb this problem the right way...the correct way...think like Ned Flanders and follow the scoop to the left.

12

Start 1 meter right of The Leftorium. Match your hands on the jug, head up and top out.

13

Match hands on the nice ledge immediately to the right of Boulder On with Codral. Top out to the right.