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Description

A slightly overhanging boulder with some crimpy holds offering some interesting sit starts courtesy of Ranger Dave!

Geoff Marshall has also provided some hands free, core working, all feet, balancy problems on the slab side of this boulder.

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

©

Approach

Facing the middle of Lindfield With A Water View, turn around and its the boulder to your right.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

Brendon Flanagan found one fun easy problem on Before The Underverse, something interesting for the beginner boulderer. What happened next? Brendon showed Ranger Dave the boulder which simply introduced harder problems. The first thing Ranger Dave did when he saw this boulder was say, "There must be some sit starts on this thing". Typical. He then got down low and pumped out two of his passions one after the other. Ranger Dave and his love of sit starts just made this boulder much more difficult. Is that a good thing or bad thing? Boulder it and decide for yourself!

A short time later Brendon introduced Geoff Marshall to this boulder and just like Ranger Dave Geoff took one look at the boulder and found two fun yet challanging problems one after the other.

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 ** Clinging to Comfort Boulder 2m

Sit start under the right arete, with your right foot in a heel hook. Move up and left keeping on the face, but the arete holds are available. Top out and kiss your fingers! The rock behind you is off limits

2
V2 Dark Stars Boulder 2m

Sit start 1m left of Clinging To Comfort. Power up to a sloper and then head left at about a 45 degree angle to top out as far left as you can. The rock behind you is off limits

Great moves all the way on this overhanging gem!

3
V0 The Original C T C Boulder 2m

Any easy one for the beginner you've brought along with you. Remeber, we were all beginners once.

4
V2 Flying High Boulder 3m

Make your way up the slab ensuring that NO HANDS are used. Core work out time people!

5
V2 Flying High 2 Boulder 3m

Start 2 metres to the right of Roc, find the good footers to kicj start the problem on and then head for the top out. Remember, NO HANDS peeps!