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Description

An amazing place for both the beginner and experienced boulderer. Short problems. Tall problems. Easy problems. Lots of problems. For the beginner who has never topped out before this is the place for you! Grab your spotter, crash pad and learn what it's like to commit to a balancy and thought provoking top out. Discover what it's like to experience fear and great achievement all at the same time! Yes my fellow boulders, you'll be KING OF THE WORLD!

By the way, if you can figure out the theme the problem names follow, might just become a healthier boulder.

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Approach

Directly to the right of The Bar Tenders Round. Mother Nature hasn't left much room to move around the base of this face so keep that in mind when spotting and avoid stepping on the ferns.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave decided that Radka needed to continue her new found bouldering development skills. Kiddies Corner was just the start for her, so this magnificent piece of rock was left to Radkas creative mind and what a creative mind she has displayed!

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V1 Special Guest Boulder 10m

A tricky start but the problem gets easier as you traverse along. Finishes next to the cave. Caution!! Annoying ex-pats have been known to play on this problem!

2
V1 Hydrogen Boulder 2m

Starting beneath the boulder on top. Head up and use the friendly undercling.

3
V2 Bovistea Boulder 3m

Starting at the chest height vertical crack. Do not use any part of Slippery Slide. Do not use the boulder above.

4
V0 Slippery Slide Boulder 3m

Easy brigging style in the slippery slide. Push through to top out. Is also used as the access trail down from the top of Radkas Boulder. Use the Paper Bark Tree for support.

5
V1 Dulcamara Boulder 3m

Start 1 metre to the right of the Paper Bark Tree. Head up, find your friend and top out.

6
V0 Lachesis Boulder 3m

Start 1 metre to the left of Mercureus. Easy top out.

7
V0 Mercureus Boulder 3m

Start left of the small bollard which sits beneath the blank top section. As usual, head up and commit to the top out.

8
V1 Kalmila Boulder 3m

Start half a metre left of Belladona and to the right I the small but evident bollard. Easy send, committing top out forte beginner. Tricky for a V1.

9
V1 Belladona Boulder 4m

Starting directly to the left of the small streak of creamy moss. Easy send with a tricky top out.

10
V1 Clemates Boulder 4m

Start half a metre left of Sarspitla. Straight up for a committing exit.

11
V1 Sarspatila Boulder 5m

Starting 1 m left of Sabina. Head straight for a slightly committing top out.

12
V1 Sabina Boulder 4m

Starting 1 m left of Sulpher LM 0/2. Head straight up and commit to the top out. Be careful you don't cramp up in your right butt cheek.

13
V0+ Sulpher LM 0/2 Boulder 4m

Starting beneath the high, deep vertical hollow, make your way up to Mother Natures pool.

14
V0 Nux Vomica Boulder 4m

Starting to the right of the deep vertical hollow, make your way up and join forces with Sulpher LM 0/2.

15
V1 Rhus Tox Boulder 4m

Starting half a meter to the right of VN make your way up and exit via the non featured gap.

16
V1 Borax Boulder 4m

Starting the far right corner before the hidden cave. stick to the arete and head on up.