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Description

The first boulder you come across with the door leading to somewhere??? Edgar The Elephant was found hanging here on apparently 'rated' gear according to Radka. If Edgar can climb this boulder then so can you. An elephant is suppose to have the ideal memory, pity the first developer for this piece of rock couldn't remember the sequence to her own problem!

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Approach

Get out of your car, walk down the steps and there you are! Although this area is a Drop Bear free zone you're advised to be cautious of falling elephants.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

While the area had undoubtedly been climbed at for many years, it is due to the efforts of Brendon Flanagan, Ranger Dave and Radka that this information is here.

This information about this crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 Do The Edgar Boulder 3m

Start just left of the sandstone wall bordering the green door of mystery. Use the solid hold around head height and go straight up. Tricky moves through the middle to a balancy top out

2
V0 Paper, Scissors..... Boulder 3m

Starting to the immediate right of the sandstone wall and cement outcrop. Head on up but make sure you only use the ROCK!

3
V1 The Elephants Memory Boulder 3m

Tricky V1. Think about your foot placement and prepare for the commiting top out. Well worth the effort.

4
Sidepull Project Boulder Project

Project of Ranger Dave!

Please respect the developers and steer clear of this one till its done

5
V1 He'd Climbed In Italy Boulder 3m

Starts on the far right of ETE and next to an access track. This problem comes with a fun dyno, some trusting foot work and possibly an Italian commentator.

6
V1 * Traverse Boulder 20m

Traverse the wall.