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Description

This is one challenging high overhang that'll offer some slap happy topping out. Grow a set of brass globus crucigers before attempting this regal crusade.

Access issues inherited from The Promised Land

Please respect the Houses as you walk into the crag. We have established a good relationship with the locals, including the teaches at the nearby school. Please continue to be a good example of the climbing community

Approach

Approach details soon to come.

Ethic inherited from The Promised Land

Development is still open in this area, but please mate sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.

Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.

History

The first area of the crag that Brendon meet up with Dave at. There was much rejoicing between the two as they discovered a crag that would offer so much to the bouldering community.

Discovered by Ranger Dave Archer in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 Noahs Arch Boulder 8m

A Fun overhanging traverse which could be your best bet for a warm up

Start at the right most section of the overhang, with your hands on bums in the scooped out section. Make your way to the ceiling then traverse until you reach the evident choss factor. For safety reasons this is the end of the problem. Drop off here!

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014

2

Set by Geoff Marshall, 2014

FA: Geoff Marshall, 2014

3
Open Project, Hard Topout Boulder Project 4m

Sit start at the first low point common to several other problems. Move right and up toward the bulbous right hand side of the overhang

Top out straight up without heading to far right to where the overhang is less

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

4
Simons Problem 1 Boulder 4m

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA: Simon, 2014

5
V5 * Out Of The Lions Jaw Boulder 4m

A pumping build up of death defying proportions!

start on the right about 1m from were the overhang starts. Match hands in the thin letter box around eye level. From here work diagonally up to the left following the line of pockets side pulls, etc.

Hit the large ledge and get ready to tackle this lion of a top out. Head straight up the water eroded scoop and smear, pinch, slap and reach long for the good holds up top.

Free yourself from the Lions Jaws, but take note that you can finish this problem without doing a "beached Whale"

Set by Geoff Marshall, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

6
V5 Gods First Problem Boulder 5m

Set by Geoff Marshall, 2014

FA: Geoff Marshall, 2014

7

FA: Simon, 2014

8
V6 ** Giant Slayer Boulder 4m

For those shorter of stature but still mighty of heart

Sit start at the common point under the left hand side of the first overhang.

Power straight up to the thin slot and then to the rounded pocket on the orange bulging section. The holds along the crack line in the middle are out.

Keep flowing up till you hit the long ledge line under the main section of the overhang and move left.

Throw a big deadpoint left out to the solid hold just under the lip. From here topout with some committing mantling

Power, Smooth hold placements and a committing top out, makes this an excellent problem

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

9
V5 *** Going Goliath Boulder 4m

TWO Epic dyno's followed by a committing mantle makes this problem a definite crag classic!

Sit start at the common spot under the left hand side of the overhang

Pull on and move left to the deep slot and the tight crimping slot above it.

From this location, think big and Dyno up to the solid ledge line under the main part of the overhang.

After pulling your self back to the rock, compose and then dyno out to the left to the deep slot under the lip of the overhang.

Match and top out straight up with some committing mantling

Solid and heart pounding all the way through

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

10
V4 A Rock To The Face Boulder 4m

A pumpy lip traverse finished with a super challenging mantle!

At the left overhang, start with hands matched on large rounded hold found under the right side of the overhang. Movee up to the lip of the over hang and once there traverse to the left until you are at hanging from the section that juts out the most.

Mantle your face off!

Good spotters and several pads help with the mental game

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

11
** The Promised Dunk Boulder Project

The direct version! From the chalked start hold, get angry and dyno to the lip of the roof. This superman fly is followed by a heartpounding mantle. Athletic and aerial!

Set by Zig and Xavier, 2014

12
V4 Judged As A Judas Boulder 3m

Think it looks deceptive? Like its just going to break? This under cling is amazing, but is this a limited climb?

Check it out and judge it for your self.

Start with both hands matched on a solid jug at the left of the Overhang. Pull your feet up high and avoiding all the choss in front of you power up to the Judas of a undercling. Either you will hate it or you will love it.

Using the undercling make dynamically or statically for the lip and breath deep for one of the hardest mantles here.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

13

From the good starting holds left of The Promised Dunk, dyno to the lip of the roof. A nice mantle to finish. Amazing fly!

Set by Zig and Xavier, 2014

FA: Xavier, 2014

14
V1 Baby Jordan Boulder

Same line as Michael Jordan is a God but with all the intermediate holds. Fun and easy!

Set by Zig and Xavier, 2014

FA: Zig, 2014

15

A sh1t easy problem unlike Out Of The Lions Jaw. Head up using the evident ledges and top out between the two noses.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014

16
V0 Two By Two Boulder 3m

Starting at the base of the access gully arête.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014