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Description

In Roman Catholic doctrine, Purgatory is a place or state of suffering inhabited by the souls of sinners who are expiating their sins before going to heaven.....

err... well...In bouldering doctrine, it's the ghetto infested cave of some wayward youths.

Broken bottles, spray tags, mattress springs, you name it it's there somewhere in the layers of soil surrounding this cave.

But even in those long dammed places there are some enticing morsels for the brave.

So wear your solid approach shoes and enjoy the overhang of Purgatory!

Routes are described from Left to Right

Access issues inherited from The Promised Land

Please respect the Houses as you walk into the crag. We have established a good relationship with the locals, including the teaches at the nearby school. Please continue to be a good example of the climbing community

Approach

Approach details soon to come.

Ethic inherited from The Promised Land

Development is still open in this area, but please mate sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.

Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.

History

Discovered by Ranger Dave Archer in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom!

This part of the Crag wasn't fully explored till many months into the development. Ofter walked past due to its rubbish and unappealing size

Regardless of the look of Purgatory the overhang was calling out to Ranger Dave and in the end it held at least two enjoyable problems.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 * Stuck In Limbo Boulder 4m

No one enjoys being stuck in a jam, unless of course its one using your toe

Start at the left side of the overhang with your right hand as a undercling and left as a side pull. From here place both feet on the face before you and move a hand up to the lip above. The most satisfying part of this climb comes next. Work the Toe jam to free up your other hand and then follow the lip to top out on its outer most corner

A solid problem from start to finish with several satisfying moves

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

2
Open Cave Project 1 Boulder Project 4m

Start deep withing the left corner of the overhang.

Without using the starting holds of "Stuck In Limbo" focus on the sideways undercling and crimps of the over hang to work your way up to the lip

Top out same as "SIL"

Intense power needed for the start

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

3
V4 ** The Forsaken Boulder 4m

A satisfying inverted lip problem

With both hands matched on the big break just to the right of where the cave lip starts heading upwards, move straight to a heel hook, with the rock underneath you out of bounds

Using the lip and face holds 30cm from the lip, follow it up and left till you are around the corner.

Top out same as "Stuck In Limbo"

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

4
Face Project 1 Boulder Project

Heel Hook start same as "The Forsaken" but at the one that the cave lip moves up to the left, Instead of following it, head straight up using vertical groove

Top out to the left of the second rock on top of the overhang. This rock is useable

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

5
V1 The Forgotten Boulder 3m

Set by Jake Griffiths, 2014

FA: Jake Griffiths, 2014

6

Start 1 right of The Forgotten

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014

7

Find your way to the top of the waist high ledge. Stabilise yourself and follow it up with a top out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014

8
V0 Stain Glass Problem Boulder 3m

Start 2 metres right of the overhang.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2014

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2014