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Description

Another sector but with some interesting features and decent climbing on a wide ledge. The routes are short sport routes, and not much shorter bouldering, often with heady, slopey top outs as their crux. They wouldn't feel so difficult closer to the ground! Unlikely to be popular with gym junkies! Rock quality is improving with traffic.

Approach

From the car park outside the reserve walk right past the main area until just before the speed hump toward the lookout at the end. Of from the end, walk left down hill until until the first speed bump. A faint track drops down steeply, then left (facing out) around the base of a gradually growing cliff line with some bouldering before the longer routes. Follow this along the ledge and around the corner to the main cliff line.

Descent notes

There is also an access gully at the far right of the crag (looking in). Beware the 6m drop below the left hand access route above the Lower Cliff.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

There's certainly been some ascents in the past (old carrot bolts). Any history is unknown to the developer who heard about the crag from a friend.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Corner crack avoiding the walls.

FA: Graham Dowden, 2017

Left arete of high front face on its left side, moving leftwards at top to finish. Great.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Not many Sydney climbs can claim to be fully enclosed, but if you want sub-meter chimney in the semi-underworld this has it all.

Start: Behind the face climbs, or walk down from above.

Compress into it at any number of places, with or without petrophilic flora and overhangs, to your personal taste.

FA: Graham Dowden, 2017

There is a 5-6m drop right below the 1m path at the base of the cliff from here to around the corner, so a top rope is prudent.

Same arete, but climb it on the right side.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

FA: dwebster, 2015

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

FA: dwebster, 2015

About 8m left of LO there's a slab in the corner with a rail running across is. Traverse this right to left then climb arete.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Grab the rail of LIAS and move straight up the face. Good.

FA: dwebster, 2015

Just right of WdiPaM? The steep, short, crimpy wall. Nothing is known about this route except that it has a single belay bolt above it and that it's tough!

Nothing is known about the original line here. It has been rebolted in the same way as the original. Start about 2.5m left of the first bolt. Using side pull, move up to jugs and then right to 1st bolt. Up and over lip using small, hidden chipped holds (part of the original line).

FA: dwebster, 2015

The left side of the corner about 5m r of LO. For the full experience (20) start seated directly below the first bolt of LO on a sloping edge. Move up then all the way along the break rightwards before heading up.

FA: dwebster, 2016

About 3m right of corner. Up steep flake and up to lower offs (not over).

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, 2015

Start about 4m right of SC at obvious scoop. No using the tree to start! Up and over, left at last bolt for slopey finish.

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, 2016

Heinous roof crack. Say no more.

Left most route on final poxy/seamed face. Follow flake then then right to seamed face. Finish left at last bolt, using face to left for feet.

FA: dwebster, 2016

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

FA: dwebster, 2016

Right most route on final poxy face.

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, 2015

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Eastern Outpost.