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Description

An awkward looking piece of rock, a bit like the one Riddick was hiding out on. This area is merc free so no need to run, just enjoy the freedom and climb.

This cave featured boulder offers some top notch problems, packed full of underclings, heel hooks, slappers, pockets of love and two kick ass roof climbs!

Love it!

Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

©

Approach

Right next to The Underverse Next Door. Situated in front of the left hand corner of Lindfield With A Water View.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

The first thing Brendon Flanagan said when he saw this boulder was 'This has Ranger Daves name written all over it". Brendon introduced Dave to the boulder and Dave said "This has my named written all over it". So after the "Ranger Dave" graffiti was cleaned off, Dave developed some interesting problems on it. In doing so he released its animalistic potential, providing you with the beastly pump you deserve!

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 ** Crematoria Boulder Project 4m

Don't dawdle on this one. It's not a vicious sunrise you need to be cautious of, just your arms pumping out on this overhang traverse.

Sit start at the common spot for "Bio-Raptor" and "You Keep What You Kill", Except without using any of the hold inside the cave

Using the upper lip of the cave, layback your way up and follow the cave top to the left, keeping your feet inside the cave (Feet can go anywhere)

Once you have moved passed the tree, without touching it, climb straight up the bulbous face, following the slopers and avoiding the left iron stone arete

Top out loving the slappers and scramble down to smash the goodness again.

NOTE if you touch the tree, the boulder to your left (which the underverse leans on or grab any holds in the cave - then Start again!

2
V2 Evil Emergance Boulder

Cling, crawl and lunge...

Sit Start at the same point as all the other climbs.

Using only the holds inside the cave, follow the upper lip to the left and up onto the large boulder using the iron stone arete

Tree is out of bounds!

3

Start sitting on the waters side of the cave opening. Without using the corner / cave mouth head up towards the light and your freedom via the ceiling. Once you have climbed through the cave top out straight up and slightly to your left.

It's possible to make this a lot harder than it actually is! Love the problem!

NOTE the rock to your left as you face the open mouth of the cave is completely off limits. If you touch it, start again and focus your control!

Enjoy the underclings, heel hooks and toe jams. Core strength required for this problem

4
V3 ** Bio-Raptor Boulder 4m

Use the same start as "YKWYK", but once you have emerged from the cave, instead of topping out to your left, stay on the corner and move right. Top out at the highest point.

NOTE the rock to your left as you face the open mouth of the cave is completely off limits, especially as you top out over it. If you touch it, start again and focus your control!