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Access issues inherited from Balls Head

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

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Approach

Hidden from view, so could it be considered the best kept secret of the crag? Try it and you decide! From The Underverse Next Door take about 8 steps towards the water. Youll either be standing on top of it or it'll be to your right.

Ethic inherited from When Crags Collide

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History

Many years ago someone decided that this piece of rock was a bit of a joke. I beg to differ. On a windy afternoon with tall ships on the harbour Brendon Flanagan played around on this fun piece of rock. Don't be offended if you discover the rock laughing at you!

This crag is a product of the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Starting on the far right hand side, keep your feet high and traverse as far left as you can. Vertically challanged people will have to be creative with this problem. Tall people can use their tippy toes.

2
V3 ** Too Much Caffine Boulder 4m

Sit start deep under 'TAS' with both hands matching in front of you. Power backwards and make your way up to the lip. With both hands on the lip move right and top out only once you have passed the friendly tree.

3
Geoffs project 1 Boulder Project 4m

Start the same as for TMC. Conquer the overhang and exit half a metre to the left of TAS.

4
Geoffs Project 2 Boulder Project 4m

Start the same as for TMC. Climb the ceiling then traverse the lip and exit as for TINLM.

5
V2 Twist And Shout Boulder 1m

Start two thirds along TINLM, just before the two big jugs sitting one on top of the other. Jump on the rock and make your way up. Prepare for a twisting move when topping out and let a triumphant shout go when you finished!