Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North Shore 1,156 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.187634, -33.773890

Description:

The North Shore has something on offer for all lovers of chalk and rock. There's the Old classic spots like the amazing highballs at Lindfield Rocks, Pumpy much loved problems of Sissy Crag and some brilliant trad at Brown's Road.

New to the Area is the Linfield-like When Crags Collide, the diverse, unappreciated Blues Point and some Slab-tastic climbing at Harbour Side Slabs.

With all that in mind no one can go past the famous Sydney Harbour climb "Clocks" at Balls Head. The North Shore has it all covered, chalk up and climb on!

1.1. Balls Head 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.194569, -33.847053

Description:© (christo)

A great roof and some dank, mouldy, shitty climbs with fabulous views across the harbour to the bridge, opera house and city skyline.

Useful Info: The local council has BANNED CLIMBING AND BOULDERING HERE! Signs have been erected by North Sydney Council at When Crags Collide stating this sad sad fact.

Access Issues:© (christo)

Climbing of any kind (including bouldering) has been banned by North Sydney City Council throughout the Ball's Head Reserve since 1996. Please don't jeopardise future attempts to restore access by flouting the ban.

Approach:© (christo)

Balls Head reserve is at the end of 'Balls Head' Rd, Waverton. Park in the parking area in the middle of the loop road and walk south, down a series of steps towards the harbour. 'Clocks' is on the far side of the boulder at the bottom of the stairs. Walk around to the left or right to get to it, however the right is far easier.

1.1.1. The Big Block 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.195796, -33.847384

Description:

Home to most photographed climb in Sydney, maybe even NSW?

A great roof and some dank, mouldy, shitty climbs with fabulous views across the harbour to the bridge, opera house and city skyline.

Useful Info: The local council has banned climbing and bouldering at Balls Head Reserve. Signs have been placed at When Crags Collide indicating this. A photo of the sign has been placed in the Balls Head Gallery.

There are 7 climbs on The Big Block down by the water.

1.1.2. Central Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.194171, -33.847542

Description:

Some of these climbs were OK about 20 years ago, but now that the track is closed and is an overgrown jungle requiring machetes and napalm to breach it's just not worth the effort. All fixed pro is now nothing more than rusted blobs of history.

The first set of climbs are about 100m left of The Big Block.

Navel Research is another 100m further left.

70 further left, near the point, is also home to the most evil looking crack - C is a large hand sized roof-crack with evil black coloured rock.

1.1.3. When Crags Collide 81 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.193788, -33.845973

Unique Features And Strengths:

Amazing rock, brilliant views and stunning sunsets. Sadly North Sydney Council have placed a ban on all climbing and bouldering at Balls Head Reserve. Signs have been erected at When Crags Collide.

Description:

The Council has a "no climbing or bouldering" sign up but that is not stopping the chalk from growing - check the discussion for more details

The focal point of When Crags Collide mirrors that of the legendary Lindfield Rocks, offering some brilliant high ball problems on choss free sensational rock.The remainder of the crag offers bouldering resembling that of The Frontline with overhangs, aretes and sit starts.

So there's no need to travel between Lindfield Rocks and The Frontline to boulder what they've got on offer because When Crags Collide has everything a boulderer needs.

Batteries may not be included, but this crag does come with a cool breeze from the harbour on a hot summers afternoon with amazing views to boot! Boulder until the end and enjoy the seriously stunning sun sets out to the west. Come for the bouldering, stay for the sunsets!

Approach:

Making your way along Balls Head Drive, Waverton, follow the loop road through Balls Head Reserve. Drive past the toilet block and continue past the ample car spaces. You can park here if you wish to enjoy a stroll through mother nature, but if you want to get straight to the bouldering action keep on driving. Continue along the loop road through Balls Head Reserve through one chicane and then park just before the second chicane. From here you'll find the stairs leading down to a nature trail. The big green door in the rock is a feature of Edgar The Elephant boulder.

Ethic:

When Crags Collide is a bolt free environment. Bolting will not be tolerated by the developers and more than likely North Sydney Council as well.

When Crags Collide was developed as pure bouldering for the love of bouldering. The developers want it to remain this way.

It may be tempting to bolt the highballs or even put some sneaky carrots in at the top. The developers did discuss this as an option and decided seeing this is a popular look out, and the base is on a very popular hiking track, that bolts would only detract from the natural beauty of the area that non-climbers come to enjoy.

There's one rusted forgotten bolt at the top of Lindfield With A Water View from several decades ago. This is a mark oh history but if any other bolts are found here they'll be chopped by either the developers or once again, more than likely North Sydney Council.

History:

This area has had a well documented history of climbing since at least the 1970s, and given its convenient and popular location was probably climbed on for at least a decade or two before that (during the period before guidebooks became popular).

What is known with certainty is that this area was included in Mike Law's "Sydney Suburbs and Sea Cliffs Guidebook" (1987), Mike Law's "Sydney and the Sea Cliffs" guidebook (1991), Peter Monks' "Sun, Surf and Sandstone" online guidebook (1997), and Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" guidebook (2001).

None of these publications included detailed route information, and we can thank a motivated group of local climbers for retrospectively adding names and grades to many of the existing problems during 2013, as well as providing the detailed route information found here.

1.2. Blues Point 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203218, -33.849978

Description:

A 35m long quarried cliff that has a mass of good, unappreciated boulder problems on it. A few great mantles and some V1's makes this place good for beginners, with a few harder problems scattered throughout.

We all started out as beginners so some VERY easy problems have been developed for those just discovering the love of rock. Become comfortable with the rock, then face the battle of the psychological challange.

With the Harbour Bridge to your right and the harbours water's lapping behind you, this crag will offer you more than just a good climb, it'll offer you some amazing views as well!

Most problems finish halfway up the wall. Of course if one wants to, all problems can be topped out, with more highballs being developed all the time.

News Flash: Blues Point now new and improved with added top rope problems! Gear not included.

Council have also placed a permanent wheelie bin at the base of the crag next to Letterbox Crack. Ensure care is taken when traversing I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is .

Approach:

Drive, ride or walk down to the end of Blues Point Road where you'll hit a car park with an awesome view of the Harbour Bridge and city.

Walk through Blues Point Reserve, past the play ground and toilets and then round the point past all the fishermen. In under 2 minutes you've come across the first wall with two more only meters away.

History:

Well hello there I'm glad you stopped by. Why don't you take a seat and I'll tell you a story of how it all began.

Now being so close to the city and with the iconic over hang of Balls Head on the opposing shore, Blues Point has been crawled over for years but until recently very few routes had been developed with almost no beta being placed in guide books or online.

Blues Point was first develoepd by Brendon Allan Flanagan in early 2011 and was his first ever 'crag project'. Then in 2012 from sunny Queensland came Ranger Dave who found Blues Point on another climbing web site which will not be mentioned because as we know thecrag.com is the best!

Ranger Daves keen eye for detail could see that Blues Point had so much more to offer the climbing community than what Brendon Allan Flanagan had revealed. Tirelessly Ranger Dave toiled, and toil did Ranger Dave until all the wonders hidden in every crimper, pocket and jug were discovered.

It was at this point Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave joined forces to use their powers to persue world domination...they then decided developing more problems and climbs would be a far better idea instead. So like two giddy school girls the night before the school dance (Daves quote, not Brendons), together they focused their excitment on the undeveloped rock in Sydney.

And the Sydney climbing community lived happily ever after.

Ranger Dave and Brendon Flanagan developed this crag so that all chalk bearers could share the love of Blues Point.

Blues Point was the epicentre for the Gret Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.2.1. Life Aquatic Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203343, -33.850174

Description:

Life is all about the water! Or is it all about the land? Many have struggled with this dilemma and here you can too. Do you watch the hordes of city folk and their flotilla or does the rock and its intricacies consume you?

This wall is characterised by a massive cave to the left hand side and boasts some rewarding problems and challenging highballs.

Prepare to answer the questions of many elderly/tourists/sailor/dog walkers/fisher people of all types on all manner of topics (but mainly on what you are doing).

Approach:

The first chunk of rock you come across as you round the corner of Blues Point. Climbs move from right to left and start at the boarder of the garden where the wall meets the grass and where the skies the limit!

Descent Notes:

To set up the top rope problems either take the stairs past the toilet block to make your way up to the top of the crag or climb the sandstone block wall Half way between the two main walls

History:

Blues Point love and attention revivd by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave Archer. Brendon and Dave's first united crag development.

1.2.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203192, -33.849903

Description:

Just 20 or so meters from the left side of the Life Aquatic wall, this smallish cliff boast 6 sweet technical problems incorporating all manner of high kicks, super human pinches and some bad ass out of sync voice overs!

Panda's are not welcome...

Approach:

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) until the cliff line takes better form (not so staggered and crumbly). Begin your ancient nose breaking art!

1.2.3. Peeking Patch 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203071, -33.849786

Description:

Also known as the perverts wall, this pocketed cliff keeps you partially hidden in the undergrowth. Be prepared for surprise and shock as passersby respond to your shirtless figure grunting on the cliff face. Maybe you'll be so lucky as for them to be young, good looking girls, who didn't call the cops, but instead called you over to drink wine at their picnic (good part of a true story - bad part is that their boy friends soon joined them)

Not suitable for real perverts or people wanting to have a coal BBQ...

If you are going for an Onsite or your first send it is recommended that you climb the Jurassic tree root and give the top out to each problem a clean.

Approach:

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) untill the cliff line moves into the garden. Enter and begin your dubious practice! Climbs are from right to left and start just left of the Giant Jurassic Park Vines/Roots.

1.3. Kurraba Point 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.223336, -33.845718

1.3.1. Habour Side Slabs 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.223340, -33.845732

Unique Features And Strengths:

Who knew there was some slab bouldering right on the harbour!? Whether or not you love friction and tiny crimps, this is one spot worth checking out especially for "Oh Man, Oh Man, Oh Man" V4 *

Description:

As the old saying goes "Friends don't let friends climb slab". Wrong! Slab is amazing to climb on and with only one other slab bouldering crag in Sydney (Pearl Bay) this crag will certainly rival it!

Whether you want the balancing pinches and smears of "The First Cuts The Deepest" or some serious core strength and laybacking in "Oh Man, Oh Man, Oh Man", Harbour Side Slabs can give you a satisfying experience!

Once an old quarry the rock is reasonable quality as long as it has traffic.

Access Issues:

All Climbs are open with no access problems (just inquisitive locals).

Approach:

Driving down Kurraba Rd it becomes one way (a giant loop). After Baden Rd head off to the left and park by the lookout that faces towards the Harbour.

Walk to the left of where you parked, down the gravel/tar path towards the water.

With the water on your left and a cliff line developing on your right you'll come to slab city before you know it.

All routes are described from right to left facing the cliff line.

History:

Developed in June 2013 by Ranger Dave.

After this location was spotted from across the cove, Ranger Dave couldn't resist hunting down these cliffs for some goodies!

The first documented climbs here were done on a drizzly day equipped with Steel Cap Boots - true to the history of this Sandstone Quarry!

Cleaned, gardened and sent by Ranger Dave and Brendon Flanagan.

This crag is a product of the Great Bouldering Boom!

1.4. The Spit 67 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.248664, -33.807328

1.4.1. Sandy Bay 29 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.252721, -33.803665

1.4.2. Pearl Bay 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.243981, -33.809885

Description:

Pearl Bay is made up of three areas. Two areas offering some excellent bouldering and one area offering climbing on rusted out protection.

The main bouldering site, The Pearl Bay Quarry, is a quarry from the 1800's offering quite a few interesting vertical problems of both the slab and face variety. The Pearl Bay Quarry offers soft flat grassy landings, is protected from the wind and faces north east so gets the sun from morning til early/mid afternoon.

The second bouldering area is a 5 minute walk along the path past the boat houses heading towards the rowing club. This big boulder offers a good, juggy overhang problem with potential for variants.

Caution: Local council have erected a permanent sign stating that climbing is not permitted on the Overhanging Boulder. As tempting as it may be please respect this sign and keep the climbing community in good light with the local council.

The climbing area ranges along the base of the cliff starting from The Overhanging Boulder to the pedestrian path connecting to Pearl Bay Avenue.

Approach:

Drive north bound along the Spit Road and you'll come to the S bend preceding the down hill approach to the Spit Bridge. Set yourself up in the far left hand lane no later than after the S bend. Very soon after the S bend you'll see a bus shelter. Turn left here into Pearl Bay Avenue and park at the bottom of the hill near number 30. If you miss Pearl Bay Avenue you can take the next left at the bottom of the hill and park at the rowing club but this'll cost you money. Feed the meters and avoid a hefty parking fine. It'll be more convenient if you make your way back up past the S bend and start your approach to Pearl Bay Avenue again.

If you're quick enough to get the Pearl Bay Avenue turn off, park opposite number 30 where you'll see Fig Tree Walk, the pedestrian access for Pearl Bay. Following this path you'll come to the beach that the amazing quarried bouldering overlooks. Turn left into the park at the beach and you'll discover the main wall hidden behind the large Fig tree.

For The Overhanging Boulder continue walking along the path past the house boats and it'll be on your right.

For the rope climbing crag in Pearl Bay, turn right at the beach and follow the trail following the base of the cliff line below all the houses. Look VERY hard to see the limited, yet rusted protection. The protection is not safe to use! This climbing area has seen better days.

History:

Original problem beta derived from the 2011 Sydney Bouldering Guide written by Peter Balint.

1.4.3. Castle Rock Beach 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Deep Water and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.259721, -33.812655

1.5. Clifton Gardens 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.253994, -33.838403

Description:

Small but decent overhanging boulder, potentially some other undiscovered boulders in the area

1.6. Balmoral 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.252617, -33.823276

Description:

Vertical Beach climbing. You'd be better off going for a swim or grabbing a cappuccino

Approach:

It's the "island" right in the middle of Balmoral Beach

1.7. Cammeray 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.216344, -33.817181

1.7.1. Tunks Park 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.216563, -33.816891

Description:

A beautiful part of Sydney. Bouldering is not epic but it is worth an afternoon. There are three areas worth trying out. Some easy stuff if you just starting out plus a few harder problems.

Approach:

Park at the tunks park oval (brothers avenue). There is climbing near the boat ramp, near the green door on the opposite crag and on both sides of the oval.

1.8. St Leonards 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.189303, -33.817846

1.8.1. Climb-Fit 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.189285, -33.817846

Description:

If you climb at Climb-Fit you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

4/12 Frederick St, St Leonards

1.9. Castlecrag 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.221043, -33.802138

1.9.1. Sunny Side 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.217345, -33.799130

1.10. Middle Cove 51 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.218307, -33.794483

Description:

Situated in the leafy and peaceful North Shore of Sydney this hidden gem has lots on offer.

The crags located in Middle Cove offer many top rope climbs with some trad, sport and bouldering.

1.10.1. The Chief's 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.215244, -33.792460

Description:

< BOULDER GUIDE IN DEVELOPMENT - Thanks for your patience>

Set in a suburban area connected to Harold Reid Reserve, two medium sized boulders sit as a reminder to the Geological movements of the past!

Get in touch with your ancestors at this Sit Start Only Bouldering area containing a fun range of problems between V1 and V4.

All Problems are Sit Start, with excellent landings.

Approach:

As soon as you enter the park you'll see a path heading left from the road. Following this for about 5mins you will be heading down hill towards the water. Head left when you hit the cul de sac of North Arm Road. Follow this road for 3min and you will see the two Boulders, one on each side of the road!

OR

You could drive there (check the map). There is plenty of parking by the boulder

History:

During the Great Bouldering Boom of Sydney, Ranger Dave discovered this spot in August 2013, while he was on a nice walk with his woman. Needless to say the walk and the woman dropped in importance...

The Chief's are yet another proof of all the undeveloped rock waiting around the inlets and nature reserves of Sydney!

1.10.2. Harold Reid Reserve 38 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.218452, -33.794713

Description:

An amazing reserve tucked away in the backstreets of Middle Cove. Harold Reid Reserve offers some fun lead climbing at the original Middle Cove crag as well as some amazing and challanging top rope problems at the new School Yard.

Approach:

From Eastern Valley Road, turn into Cawarrah Road, then right into Rembrandt Drive. Follow this around until you come across two driveways right next to each other on the right side after a dog leg to the left. The first driveway is the entrance into Harold Reid Reserve which has a white gate. Note: Harold Reid Reserve is a loop road and the reserves gate is closed at 5:30pm sharp. So if you want to stay later park outside in Rembrandt Drive.

1.11. Castle Cove 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.209296, -33.779503

1.12. West Roseville 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.164860, -33.790643

Description:

A North Shore zero access sport crag! Has a number of cool little lines, including a great little 24 that busts through the roof! To get to the crag, park on the left at the corner of Shirley Rd and Valleyview Close in Roseville and find a faint track between number 130 and a light pole.  Down past a boulder on your left, then veer right then back left to the top of the cliff (you'll come out directly above Thunderbird).  At this point you're still no more than 100m from the houses! Descend to the right (chopped steps, boulder scramble). Apparently some mid ranged bouldering off to the right (not checked) or bash over to the left or find the faint track amongst the undergrowth to find yourself underneath the big overhang. Thunderbird starts here.   The crag is within the Lane Cove National Park. Climbs described left to right.

1.13. Lindfield Rocks 192 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.178951, -33.768556

Description:© (Atrax)

Highly popular, historic bouldering destination. Mostly vertical, with some steeper stuff, some highball, some safe.

Millions of variations on the described problems exist, and everything's been done. Have fun and explore.

Comments on grades and star ratings are welcomed.

Useful Info: 'Problems' are described right-to-left. Take care with landings. Most high problems have toprope bolts in place to save erosion and tree damage - use them if you're toproping! If it's damp/sandy, try to stay off to minimise wear.

Problem selection based on 'Sydney Bouldering', 2001 Peter Balint et al, which you really should buy as a Sydney boulderer.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Near the corner of Archbold Road and Tryon Road in Lindfield is a small driveway (turn right off Archbold before it becomes Eastern Arterial Road and it's immediately after).

Park up and follow the trail to the right of the tennis courts for two minutes to the crag. Convenience!

1.13.1. First Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Short, fingery problems, some sharp.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Immediately left of the steps as you enter the crag

1.13.2. Walkdown Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Some nice little problems on this wall.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Immediately left of 'First Wall' is the common descent for this area. To the left of that is a vertical wall with prominent breaks and a big crack towards its left hand end (Problem #9)

1.13.3. Kenny Boulder 25 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.178388, -33.769470

Description:© (Atrax)

Also known as 'Layback' slabs, this boulder is the obvious stand-alone boulder on the left of the path

Approach:© (Atrax)

Right opposite 'Four Cracks Wall' and obvious as you walk in. 'Problems' described anticlockwise round the boulder from the descent route (problem #1)

1.13.4. The Downclimb Slab 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.13.5. Four Cracks Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

It's getting taller!

A popular wall with easy classics. Bolts available at the top of the cliff to protect the trees.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Obvious wall with cracks opposite the 'Kenny Boulder'

1.13.6. Abseil Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Taller again. A couple of classics here, though they're a little necky. Toprope bolts exist, you might want to consider using them if you're pushing your grade here.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Prominent vertical wall with a tree on the right hand side, left of 'Four Cracks Wall'.

1.13.7. Black Wall/Wide Crack Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Again, high. Not the greatest of landings

Approach:© (Atrax)

Obvious bay left of 'Abseil Wall'

1.13.8. One Hold Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

aka Eagle's Head, this wall is high, and the landings aren't the best. then again they're not as bad as some!

Potential descent route in the ledgy corner

Approach:© (Atrax)

Left of Black Wall/Wide Crack, another small bay

1.13.9. Pipeline Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.13.10. Bum Crack/Pocketed Face 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.13.11. Orange Face/Slab Side 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.13.12. She-Oak Wall 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Home to 'The Blank Wall', a classic V4, and She-Oak Crack, a classic easier crack. The eponymous She-Oak is now defunct

Approach:© (Atrax)

Immediately left of 'Snout Rock' and 'Corals', a steep slab with a ripply top marks 'The Blank Wall', abutted by a pair of diverging cracks on the left

1.13.13. Isolated Rock/Overhang 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:© (Atrax)

Tall, demanding attention and much talked-of. "The Overhang" at Lindfield is one of those "have you done..." problems

Approach:© (Atrax)

A standalone rock left of the Blank Wall, marking the end of the crag proper. 'Problems' described are on the face directly opposite snout rock. Tons of variants of course exist.

1.13.14. The Overhangs 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.179257, -33.768292

Description:© (Atrax)

Not to be confused the 'The Overhang'.

Approach:© (Atrax)

To the left and slightly separate from the main crag, an area of overhanging sandstone up off the path

1.13.15. Pipe Dreams 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.178796, -33.767872

Description:© (Atrax)

Steep, thugy bouldering and a classic traverse

Approach:© (Atrax)

Follow the track past the overhangs to some steps, turn left and walk for about 100m to find the area on your right. Climbs described left to right

1.14. Killara 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.141433, -33.768138

1.14.1. The Big Pump 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.137519, -33.775855

Unique Features And Strengths:

This area consists of overhangs and ceilings. An amazing area for any level of boulder. Stays perfectly dry in the wet.

Description:

An overhanging cave with a fine red dust that sticks to everything. Has a high grunge factor. It used to be a favourite training ground in the 80's for developing endurance. The traverse from left to right - The Big Pump - is around 28.

Only a few of the main problems are shown and there are zillion variants.

Excellent in summer and also in wet weather. For some obscure reason it doesn't tend to suffer from seepage after rain

Access Issues:

Keep in mind, if you crossed the river to get to the crag and it's raining remember the water levels could rise over the several hours you're bouldering there. This could result in an alternate exit route being devised.

Approach:

From the corner of Blaxland Rd and Terrace Rd Killara walk through Allen Park and follow the track down to the creek. Take care crossing the creek and immediately follow the shore line to your right. The first cave you get to is the Lower Cave with some ceiling problems to master.

From the Lower Cave you can see the main attraction if you look up and to your right. Walk and scramble up to it.

Be prepared for two things...red dust and The Big Pump.

History:

Steve Knight discovered this in the early 80's. Geoff Weigand used to train here with a weight belt which is how he probably destroyed his elbows.

1.14.2. The Block 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.139851, -33.775280

Description:© (adRock)

From corner of Blaxland and Terrace Roads in West Killara, walk down firetrail (towards the Big Pump), after about 50m take the obvious track on your left. Walk about 200-300m, through caves and under a waterfall, and then a rather inauspicious boulder sits in the middle of the track.

1.15. East Killara 256 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.179514, -33.754775

Description:

This small Suburb has a lot of forested areas with many boulders and cliffs. Home to 'The Promised Land' and located a short drive from 'Linfield Rocks' means that this area is well worth the visit

History:

Documented development first started here in 2004 though there is a high chance that climbing occurred in this area long before that.

All respect is paid to the traditional developers of this area and any information on historic routes and problems is appreciated

1.15.1. The Promised Land 189 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.169216, -33.755023

Unique Features And Strengths:

An amazing location of high & low overhangs, high balls, slabs, aretes, face climbs and traverses. Classics include 'Thy Mighty Right Hand' (V4) and 'Church Of The Eternal Hug' (V6)

Description:

A boulderer's playground of biblical proportions! This crag provides the sacred rock lover with everything they could ever pray to lay their chalked up calloused hands on.

Access to and around the crag is user friendly with easy gullies and tracks connecting all 3 tiers. Brendon made some garden trails and cairns to mark your merry way through the labyrinth.

Split up into three separate tiers you'll find this crag has everything on offer.

Best of all this crag has been developed with all levels of boulderers in mind. There'll be open projects left by Geoff Marshall and Ranger Dave Archer to tease and tantalise the masses!

The developers are pleased to announce that this crag is now tic AND leech free. We suffered the hard yards battling these unholy beasts so you could boulder without the risk of any unwanted demons.

Access Issues:

Please respect the Houses as you walk into the crag. We have established a good relationship with the locals, including the teaches at the nearby school. Please continue to be a good example of the climbing community

Approach:

Park on Koola Ave closest to the start of the playing field. Walk parallel to the playing field with the houses on your left until you come to the Cricket nets.

Here you have two options.

  1. To come out at King Davids Overhang and have access to the start of Genesis, go left of the Cricket nets and follow the path till you hit a tight gully. Turn left down that and follow the path to KDO

  2. To come out at Purgatory and have access to the right most section of the crag (From 'The Raising Of The Highball' on), go Right of the nets. Follow the path till you go right and down a rocky section to hit Purgatory. Follow the path from there heading in the same direction to hit the middle tier.

Ethic:

Development is still open in this area, but please mate sure your new line is reasonably different to those existing. If you have any questions or concerns don't hesitate to contact the main developers - Brendon Flanagan or Ranger Dave.

Please respect the crag and clean up an trash you see. Sadly teenage punks from the local school mess this place up.

History:

This area was initially discovered and developed in the early 00s by Phil Ritchie and Chris Ritchie. Originally named the crag "Crispy".

This amazing multi tiered crag has everything a boulderer has ever wanted. Ranger Dave Archer, Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Marshall and many other developers were blessed by a power greater than gravity to be able to have free reign over the development of a crag with such an extensive selection of problems.

Over a 9mth period the crag was developed much to the anticipation of the climbing community

Discovered by Ranger Dave Archer in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom!

1.15.2. Queen's Country 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.168837, -33.751649

Description:

A bouldering area located in the bushland of Killara. There is heaps of rock scattered throughout the bush and only a small amount of it has seen any development, so for intrepid boulderers who don't mind a bit of bushbashing there is plenty of potential for new problems.

The grades of the current problems are entirely subjective and depend on what the developers found hard or easy on any given day so don't take them as gospel.

Approach:

There is parking on the left hand side just after the speed camera on Eastern Arterial Road when heading north from the city.

After parking walk into the bush and cross over the creek and turn left to follow the path along the creek bank.

Continue straight when the path veers off to the right and cross over the small side stream and continue following the creek bank.

When you see a green household garbage bin that has become wedged amongst some trees turn right and bash up through the bush.

Continue uphill and you should see 'Mossrock boulder' ahead.

History:

I don't believe there has been any climbing here previously but if anyone knows some history for the area let me know.

One of the developers Scott Lacey, often saw rock through the bush when driving along Eastern Arterial Road but it was while before he bothered to actually check it out.

One day off he bushbashed his way in and discovered a heap of scattered rock and bouldering potential so he recruited his brother James Lacey to start development.

A handful of boulders were discovered and cleaned and problems were sent. Now that one of the developers, James has joined the army the sole remaining developer, Scott has decided that it's best if the area is public so it can see further traffic and development!

1.15.3. God's Country 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.170614, -33.753043

Description:

Sadly this crag possessing 29 problems is now 100% overgrown with trees, dense shrubs, bushes, vines, ferns and reeds. There's leeches and tics galore and the rocks are covered in slimy moss and run off from up above. Access around the crag is near impossible. The rock has not been exposed and thus has not weathered and is prominently choss.

A mix of vertical and slightly overhanging hard sandstone wall, this crag offers a variety of nice slab problems and great beyond vertical "power walls" in the V0 to V8 range. Take care when cranking on small holds - some of the rock is quite friable.

Approach:

To get to the crag, park 50 metres south of the speed cameras on the eastern side of Arterial Road in Killara. Climb up 50 or so metres to find the first, extensive row of cliffs and head further up the hill for more. Be aware that there is a serious lack of car parking space (only a few spots to the left and right of the speed camera area). As a result, please try to minimise the number of cars you bring to the crag.

1.16. Killarney Heights 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.218333, -33.773745

1.16.1. Project Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.213864, -33.777500

Approach:

Park in Drumcliffe Ave Killarney Heights, on the left before the houses. Walk south towards Middle Harbour and slightly downhill until you reach the main (lower) cliff line.

1.16.2. Crumbly 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.215637, -33.779884

Description:© (StuartE)

This area is all about 'Crumbly' ... but there are a few other minor scraps of rock here too.

Approach:© (StuartE)

Park opposite 106 Kilarney Drive. Head down the path in the rocks and take a right when you reach the intersection. About 100m along and you'll see a track back up the hill into the cave.

1.17. Forestville 156 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.202725, -33.756981

1.17.1. Sissy Crag 115 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.201369, -33.764344

Description:© (StuartE)

Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.

Useful Info: Sissy is one of the best steep bouldering venues in Sydney. It has been bouldered on for years resulting in some great problems and eliminates. The crag is at its best in winter as in summer the spooge sets in and things can become more than a little greasy. The crag is sheltered during bad weather and whilst many parts stay dry during and immediately after rain, seepage starts a few hours afterwards, so its not the ideal wet weather venue. However, the Travis area always seems to be dry. There are some excellent testpieces here, most of which are short and powerful.

Most problems are done WITHOUT heel hooking, unless specified with "HH". This is how they are graded and described. By all means use your heels, but expect to be the odd one out! (And don't be spraying about how easy you found a "no heels" problem if you heelhooked it!). In the descriptions "L" denotes left-hand, "R" denotes R hand and "M" denotes match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.

Approach:© (StuartE)

Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. After dropping through the small escarpment the track doubles back to the left along the base, and soon you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.

1.17.2. The Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.204129, -33.765260

1.17.3. Satan 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.206938, -33.751383

Description:

This climb is apparently described in the Sydney Bouldering Guide, http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide.html

I'm hoping someone with a copy can do a better job on this description.

Approach:

Park at the end of Farrer Place. Keep on walking through the cul-de-sac, 15m down the fire trail, to the fire trail T-intersection. Here you will find a rock platform. (I couldn't find any specific climbs here). Take a right, and walk along till you are behind the house at 18A Farrer Pl, then walk 10m down to the cliff line. Here is an overhung boulder, about 2m high, with a 10m traverse (which had chalk marks when I found it).

1.17.4. Fox Cave 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.207456, -33.755455

1.18. Wahroonga 71 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090678, -33.735359

1.18.1. Browns Road 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090703, -33.735400

Description:

Overlooking Upper Lane Cove River in a nice bushland setting this area has a mix of boulder top rope and lead climbs. The area is worth a visit as there is something for everyone. There are numerous possibilities for new moderate sport routes.

Its probably worth mentioning that most of the rock hear has seen some form of climbing at some point. Much of it not recorded. So if you do put up a new route do record the details for future.

Approach:

Park at the end of Browns Rd Wahroonga and head down the track to left. This will bring you to the top of the courtyard. Head down through the gully at the north end of the courtyard.

History:

Recently some names have been mentioned about the origional developers. First ascents include Jon Reilly, who put the first bolts in, Rob Saunders, Hira Verick. Other names mentioned are Mike Myers, Justin Kennedy, Tim O'Neill and Libby Illy.

Many of the courtyard lines were apparently top roped and eventually soloed without crash mats many years back.

In recent years some sport routes went up in a cave down near the aid walls.

2013,2014 saw the replacement and additions of many of the tope rope anchors to back up or replace the manky fixed gear.

Early 2014 and some new easier routes on the lower cliff established with a mixed route approach.

A lot of the lines have old initials at the base.

1.19. Greenwich 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.187621, -33.834131

Description:

Info from: www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/greenwich/greenwich_guide.html More projects and basic topos there.

Approach:

Off the end of Vista Street.

1.20. Riverview 33 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Top Rope and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.161272, -33.828187

1.20.1. Tambourine Bay 33 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.161371, -33.828078

Description:

A fun play area somewhat reminiscent of Lindfield, but is less extensive. The moderate grades, easy access and toproping facilities will surely appeal. The area is popular with non-climbers and has a bushcare group, so don't screw up access and retrobolt the walls (which are too short to be worthwhile anyway).

Approach:

Park or leave your bike at Tambourine Bay Reserve car park.

History:

The recorded climbs at the main crag were first written up by Ian Ryan. Most of these routes were either soloed or led, however most are probably better described as toprope or boulder problems. Information on routes at the eastern sector is sketchy, and most details have been determined by locating old bolts and climb initials, plus notes from Scott Campbell published in Peter Balint's bouldering guide.

1.21. Waverton 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.199822, -33.840863

1.21.1. Main Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The main section, a long wall with several climbable sections, and a lot of otherwise.

1.21.2. Stair side 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Below the stairs. Part of the same block.