Routes in North Shore

There is a lovely grassy section above Life Aquatic Wall. Starting about 2m right of the fence, there is a large step in the wall. Starting here, traverse right till you reach the end of the natural wall (around corner). Natural rock only!

Start as for Slap Those Who Stare. Slap your way left and mantle up onto the ledge. Once here traverse to your right and around the back to where you'll find a vertical gutter cutting in the rock. DO NOT touch any part of the gutter while making your way across it, that'd just take away the fun and that's not what Blues Point is about. Finish by making your way down at the next corner.

Can be sandy if there has been little traffic but a adventure non the less!

Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 16. Thanks to my BIC Ranger Dave for permission to establish top rope anchors for this climb. Sharing the love.

First wall you see as you round Blues Point. Slopey arête starting on the right side of the wall. Lose fame by standing on the rock at the start. Move left and up to top out. Disinclined to highball? Get down to the right before the crumbly looking roof for a V0.

Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 17. Thanks to my BIC Ranger Dave for permission to establish top rope anchors for this climb. Sharing the love

Sit start in the scoop to make the most of the solid holds. Mantel up to finish same as Slap Those Who Stare. Dodge the highball and get down to the right for a V0.

Good warmup for the V4 & a perfect problem on which to do your first rose. Start the same as ELAP. Keep low as you rose through to the left. Use the two big pockets and crimp to finish on the top ledge. And the bottom rock curb ledge; its out for feet buddy!

Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 17.

Sit start same as ELAP. Move up to the top of the scoop and then left to the thin crimp. From there use the assortment of rounded side pulls to move up and top out slightly right, same as "STWS" and "RC"

Some challenging moves through the middle.

Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at Red Cheeked and move up to the top of the scoop before heading left to the little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat.

Some very tricky climbing. Start at the dyno hole and avoid the dyno ledge as well as the better holds out right. A little easier for the tall.

Note: This should appear before Dump Divers Dyno (currently No.8)

As the local disenfranchised types like using this dyno hole as a bin, it might need some cleaning. Boost straight up to jugging ledge. Be cautioned, the bin has teeth of the spidery kind.

Direct start to "Dislocate Then Elevate". Levitate to pocket, then pull past sidepull to upper wall.

Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor.

Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux.

A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the big pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP.

Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try!

The cherry on the cake of bad simon traverse

Same as for "Dislocation Station" but once you have stuck the final ledge and your arms are screaming at you, continue to grind your way to the right following the solid ledges.

Finish by reversing "STWS" in a controlled manner

Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor.

Start same as Dislocation Station - Climb up pocket filled area behind the park bench and move right along obvious ledge, slapping and smearing.

At large, deep letter box, ascend straight up following drill line near top of the cliff.

Big high ball, with little choss once you blow the dust off the holds.

One of those climbs worth doing once to really get the heart pumping!

Originally a V4 highball problem set by Ranger Dave. A big thanks to my BIC for permission to bolt his problem. Sharing the love!

Start just right of giant root system. Traverse right using pockets and shelf for hands and undercut ledge for feet. Finish at largest end pocket or continue on as for 'Dislocation Station', 'Dislocation Irritation' or 'Dislocate Then Elevate'.

Facing the rock beneath the high cave start at the far right, just left of the giant root system coming down to the ground. From here traverse around, pass the big scoop and over the buldge. You can either finish at the large drill hole or walk around to the Perfect Flake and finish on this.

A interesting traverse. Start as for P By The Sea. Traverse right using the undercling at waist height. Continue along until your fingers slip off the sloper undercling at the end.

Carrots now in place for top roping.

Starting as for PBTS, head straight on up like a whales spout. Finish by topping out.

Up Thar She Blows followed by traversing the very top of the cliff.

Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope.

Up 'Tar She Blows' then traverse below the lip of the cliff.

Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope.

Closed project

Starting at the letter P (graffiti) head up and to the right via the small flake and drill hole tapping out on top.

Start under the bulge between P By The Sea and Letterbox Crack. Only using the holds on that face mantle up and on to the skinny ledge at the top of the bulge.

Carrots now in place for top roping.

Starting at Letterbox crack, climb straight up, link on to the edge of the cave and finish just above the corner of the cave (brownish water stained rock)

Could be done as Boulder Problem if focused like a fox!

Follow the crack up using the vertical pockets. Finish by tapping out at the top of the line.

Start 1 metre left of Letterbox Crack at the inward corner cutting. Matching your hands on the slightly overhanging ledge traverse your way along until you've just past the start for Practice Your Mantle Part 2.

Between LC and the second drill hole, mantle the small overhang. Very balancy.

Sit start using first vertical crack line just left of the scoop ( Practice Your Mantle ). Make your way up using the smooth arete to your left. Top out without moving to far left (where the easy holds are).

Sit start at second crack just left of the scoop. Dog leg up and left via big horizontal crack. Use angled cracks staying as close to Grasping For The Wind as possible, while not using its arete. Love the side pull and top out with final solid ledge hold. Keep your eyes open for possible dyno and sneaky toe jam!

Contrived! Start as for Rock the Boat, but once past low break, keep right hand on blunt arete to right. Use small side pull for left. Up and finish as for Rock the Boat.

A fun and very simple way to practice your confidence with the world of dynos. Keeping your feet low and smearing, match your hands on the solid ledge above, look, leap and lunge for the next ledge up.

First Recorded Ascent: Brendon Flanagan

Start as for OMWD then up to the next ledge.

Starting 1 meter to the left of the third drill hole, place your feet on the massive break and mantle. Heel hook high left and mantle again to the top. Excellent mantle practice for the beginner.

Start 1 meter left of Practice Your Mantle Part 2. The perfect mantle for the beginner who's never done one before.

Stand start with hands on the arete and smearing feet. Hands and feet only allowed on the arete going up (no cheating now!)

A contrived climb with a powerful technical start.

Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds!

Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out.

As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3.

Less is Best!

The name of the climb says it all. Up the flake via some lay back and foot jamming action.

Start just left of Perfect Flake, in front of the large root infested, chossy crack.

Don't be alarmed - work the crack, without using the crimps on the walls ether side and move up to finish under resilient fig tree.

Complete the full circle by traversing right and down climbing via 'PF'.

Better than the choss would have you think!

The positive matchstick edge crimps left of TOCAC crack. Avoid the crack until the holds truly run out, then sidepull the top 40cm block at the top of the crack to finish. Start wherever you can, options converge quickly. Sit-start also possible. Currently doable (Sep 2021) but the top metre a bit obscured by branches.

start just left of the obvious black streak as the wall begins to go vertical

Slab style, with some deceptive, flakey holds. Move up and to the left to finish along the shared ledge hold of PFTS and MM. Good for a warm up or cool down.

Inspired by a Pike - 'flying through the air with both legs and arms pointed in one direction" Lay back the first move just left of Easy Up and move straight up to end slightly left along sandy ledge. Fun moves.

Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse.

No using magic clouds...

Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs

Stand start both hands on the square pocket near Monkey Magic while ensuring both feet are not on the sandy bit of rock (yellow-orange). Avoid the yellow-orange rock for feet and traverse towards the top-out of Bruce Lee. Also avoid going for the sandy ledge to traverse towards the left.

benthepleb

Start in the Vertical Crack and use it to get up and under the chossy roof. Use the crack all the way for best results.

Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required!

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://youtu.be/81_X2kNe1Xo

Matthew Ritchie

Starting on the left of Bruce Lee just before the Peeking Patch Jurrassic Root, you should see a pocket and a sidepull. Sit start on those two starting holds and traverse to the finish of Bruce Lee.

just left of Jurassic tree root.

After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.

With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.

This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!

Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...

Surprisingly technical. Starting just left of Coal Train Blues, use the side pull and undercling to boost up to the angled crimpers. Avoid large flake and head high crimps to the left. Then straight up. Shares no common hand holds with CTB. Match as high as possible to finish, good lip up top.

Start both hands on the undercling before moving up a line of thin crimps to better holds up high. Match the top of the wall for the tick (tree obstructs topout). No shared holds with Coal Train Blues. The large separate bulge of rock to the left is off as per video.

saitama

Start with hands on the two obvious crimpers a bit above head height. Move up to obvious flake, then up and slightly left through crimps.

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Start in front of square cutout a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to a slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging trees and grass. Enjoy the last hold and try and top out without aid from the Ents

If going for the Onsight, clean before you climb

For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge. Down climb is best to the left.

Start to the right of Pockets of Power using two crimps on the same flake (a bit lower than head height). Move left, into the scoop, using the holds which are all at head height.

Finish standing up to the left of the vertically rectangular cut out (2nd one).

Nice traverse with slight overhang.

Open for one who has vision

Start one metre to the right of the arete and keep your hands off this arete for the duration of the problem - holds on the slab only * Historical FA: Unknown * Documented FA: Alec, 2014

At the first Slab you come to start at the right hand side of the left arete. Undercling and side pull your way up and then enjoy the technical moves of this arete problem

From top to bottom the left hand is bound to the arete, while the right hand and both feet are free to wander!

Love the laybacks, delicate smears and some cool problem solving!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

A beautiful climb with minimal holds requiring some dedicated core strength and balance. For all lovers of laybacking!

At the sharp arete of the first slab you come to, start on the left side, using the corner and its features to reach the top. The holds are predominantly on the left of the arete but the climb utilises the holds on the right face within 30cm of the arete.

Balance, Dedication and a satisfying finish!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

After completing AOS, continue along the slab utilising your core strength, balance and the tiny footers and limited holds on offer until you reach the far side.

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Start one meter left of the sharp arete with a solid undercling. Move up to the slotted crack line and head right, loving the arete as you navigate to the other side. Finish with your body resting on the slab side, 1m right of the arete.

Just the start of an epic traverse!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

To the right of FLAA, none of which's holds are permitted. Straight up the chimney-like orange section of the wall, traversing across for top out on the big ledge common to all climbs to the left

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Alec, 2014

You'll need to hit this one hard with big moves, but the holds aren't as lovely as they seem

Start 1m right of the arete in the Scoop.

Without using the arete to the left or the holds on the orange streak to the right, power up using the side pulls, sloping pinch and some solid reach

Finish on the ledge common to all the slab problems and then down climb via the method of your choice

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Some Arete practice before attacking "Oh Man, Oh Man, Oh Man"

Start in front of the same arete used by "United By Brushes". Using only the arete for your hands and feet flow up to finish at the dominant ledge line common to all the other slab climbs.

Some fun problem solving with pinches and laybacks

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

The extension of 'BMT' around the arete to 'M'. A bit hairy negotiating the arete above the concrete drain.

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Scott B, 2017

A thin, balancing climb that offers great satisfaction on the holds.

Follow the thin crimpers and bumps up the left side of the slab arete, using the holds on the arete to support your climb.

Finish the climb by getting both hands on the solid ledge line.

Down climb via 'Stone Cold Steel Caps'

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Some awesome balancing slab, full of commitment and trust!

Start facing the orange vertical streak about 1m left of the corner. Using some of the left most holds of "United By Brushes" and some thin, delicate bumps and pinches move up.

At the large ledge with the carved out indent the problem moves right to mingle with UBB. Here the large carved out area and the ledge is out of bounds! Use only the holds to the right along this ledge line to keep the grade!

Down climb the same you went up or via SCSC

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Start 1 meter left of BIC. Head stright up finishing at SCSC. Crimpy, smeary and exciting. Enjoy the down climb!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

First FA in the area, done on a wet day in steel cap boots.

A good warm up to give your first climb confidence in the rock.

Start ~2m left from the arete, right were the ground leave rises.

Follow the large cuttings up to the first horizontal line of solid holds. From here move right and then up to keep following the man made cuttings until you reach the dominant ledge.

Down climb the same way you got up.

You'll get good at doing this climb in reverse as its the best way to down climb (without a challenge!)

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Start the same as for Stone Cold Steel Caps. Instead of tending right as for SCSC head straight up and finish by touching the same ledge that SCSC finishes on. All big cuttings are out of bounds!!!!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Start half a meter to the left of SCSC where the ground rises and work your way up through the lichen using some nice hidden crimpers.

Smooth moves and a focus eye required!

Finish at the solid ledge and down climb where desired

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

A lovely (if slight soft) V2 start using some great thin pinches and crimps

Navigate your way up through the lichen on the interesting, half invisible holds.

Finish using the flake to match hands on the grass adorned upper ledge

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

start 1m right of "White Man Can't Slab" and head up and left using the solid ledges.

Work the side pulls at the top to reach the finishing ledge (at the tree line). Down climb to finish

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Good holds and footers at the start while becoming more committing the higher you send.

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

A fun line doing a balancy traverse from 'WMCS' this all the way to 'UBB'. Nice moves on the face.

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Scott B, Ryan L, 2017

DYNO - start with hands in front and legs on the wall. Power up to the obvious ledge line. One move wonder.

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake.

From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top.

Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right.

Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave

The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle.