Section navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Summary

This area consists of overhangs and ceilings. An amazing area for any level of boulder. Stays perfectly dry in the wet.

Description

An overhanging cave with a fine red dust that sticks to everything. Has a high grunge factor. It used to be a favourite training ground in the 80's for developing endurance. The traverse from left to right - The Big Pump - is around 28.

Only a few of the main problems are shown and there are zillion variants.

Excellent in summer and also in wet weather. For some obscure reason it doesn't tend to suffer from seepage after rain

Access issues

Keep in mind, if you crossed the river to get to the crag and it's raining remember the water levels could rise over the several hours you're bouldering there. This could result in an alternate exit route being devised.

Approach

From the corner of Blaxland Rd and Terrace Rd Killara walk through Allen Park and follow the track down to the creek. Take care crossing the creek and immediately follow the shore line to your right. The first cave you get to is the Lower Cave with some ceiling problems to master.

From the Lower Cave you can see the main attraction if you look up and to your right. Walk and scramble up to it.

Be prepared for two things...red dust and The Big Pump.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

Steve Knight discovered this in the early 80's. Geoff Weigand used to train here with a weight belt which is how he probably destroyed his elbows.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Traverse upside down through the roof above the ledge.

From the back of the cave follow the slots out through the roof.

Start on the jug/slot on the right, head up then traverse left to join the V3.

Starts right at the slot/jugs, head up and left (above Dragon's Den) to join the V3.

FA: Mike Forward, 2016

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Start as for Mummy Dust but go high to the start of The High Traverse.

The classic training problem. Usually done left to right. If you don't rest in the little cave it is apparently equivalent to a 28.

A series of desperate iron crosses that links into Mummy Dust.

Up via the big undercling hole.

Layaway to layaway to jug.

Yet another dyno.

Traverse left and up out of the cave. Heel hooking is off.

Traverse right out of the cave.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Big Pump.