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Description

Small but high quality, with one very amazing hard problem. Discovered by Adam Griffiths and developed mainly by Adam Griffiths, Tim O'Neill and Saxon Johns in 2001 and 2002.

Useful Info: This area is very close to peoples houses and backyards and so far the residents welcome the "intrusion". But please no boom-boxes, dogs or swearing - save that for the gym!

© (secretary)

Approach

Park on the Cnr of North Rocks Rd and 'Loyalty' Rd, and head under the power line tower and then left behind the town houses. Note: The land the power line is on is not public land, it is the property of the house on your right, so please be courteous.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 Bob Matt Boulder

The little boulder on the way in before the cave, pretty fun. Sit start with left hand on arete a right hand in slot, climb up and right to top out around the corner.

FA: Dan da Silva, 2013

2
V3 * Expectant Fathers Boulder 4m

The easiest line out of the scoop - on the right hand side. Bring a brush and clean the last two holds before a send attempt.

3
V5 ** This Way Out Boulder

A harder and better way out of the scoop!

4
V4 *** Bedside Manner Boulder 5m

A good long link-up, and the best of this little collection.

Start: Start on the right hand of the scoop, traverse left and big move to topout.

5
V5 ** No Name 1 Boulder 5m

Start low in the middle of the cave. Move up and then join Bedside Manner to finish in the same way.

6
V7 ** Great Expectations Boulder 4m

A direct start on the steep wall punching into the scoop.

7
V7 Natural Birth Boulder

Climb "Great Expectations" and finish out "Will It Ever End".

8
V6 ** Will It Ever End Boulder

An even longer link up traverse

9
V12 ** J2 Boulder

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

FA: Saxon Johns

10
V13 *** J1 Boulder

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

FA: Saxon Johns

11
V14 A1 Boulder

Lower right start to J1.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons

12
V8 * Midwife Crisis Boulder

Start as for J2, but traverse left and up.

14
V6 * Dyno Boulder

Another imaginitive name. Nice and pure.

15
V8 ...Infants Boulder
16
V5 ** Ladder II Boulder 5m

Goood stuff.

17
V11 Liquid Dreams Boulder

Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2010

18
V6 ** Little Matt Boulder

Start on the slopey jug to the left, move up to the dish from the break, and top-out left of the boulder.

FA: Mattias B-M, 14th Aug

19
V10 Big Mitch Boulder

Start at the low jug, dyno from the break to the top of the bulge and top-out a little to the right of the boulder. Could be V11.

FA: Mattias B-M, 14th Aug

20
Little Matt's mono proj Boulder Project

Start as for Big Mitch but traverse the break a little bit further left and use the mono to tackle the bulge. Not sure of the grade yet.

Set by Matt Mattheson, 14th Aug

Open trips

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