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Description

Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes

© (Atrax)

Approach

From the second creek crossing bash up and left under some roofs to reach the base of a fine curving arete. This is 'Frankenstein', the classic-as-classic-can-be V0.

© (Atrax)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 Golden Showers Boulder

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

2
V5 ** Elm Street Boulder

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

3
V3 ** Blunt Instrument Boulder

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

4

Easy 'Arete' and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

5

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. start at the small boulder and go straight up.

6
V5 * Disco Inferno Boulder

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

7
V5 ** Rocksteady Teddy Boulder

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this

8
V5 Unsteady Freddy Boulder

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

9
V2 * Big Ted Boulder

Lovely slab

10
V2 * Jemima Boulder

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

11
V2 Sesame Street Boulder

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

12
V0 Grover Boulder

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

13
V3 R Poltergeist Boulder

low start on the arete, scary finish

14
V4 R Doppelganger Boulder

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

15
V0 Vibes Boulder

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder

16
V0- The Exorcist Boulder

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side

17
V0 ** Frankenstein Boulder

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too.

18
V4 R ** The Trance Boulder

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

19
V3 R * The Twilight Zone Boulder

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

20
V3 R Flick Footy Boulder

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

21

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

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