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Description

Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes

© (Atrax)

Approach

From the second creek crossing bash up and left under some roofs to reach the base of a fine curving arete. This is 'Frankenstein', the classic-as-classic-can-be V0.

© (Atrax)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
Taught Marker Boulder Project 4m

Dyno project on wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump of rubbish crimps. Tried over the years by a few people, named Taught Marker some years ago by an Austrian climber.

2
V2 Golden Showers Boulder

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

3
V5 ** Elm Street Boulder

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

4
V3 ** Blunt Instrument Boulder

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

5
V0 Edward Scissorhands Boulder 4m

Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

6
V2 * Sounds of Seduction Boulder 4m

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up.

7
V5 * Disco Inferno Boulder

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

8
V5 *** Rocksteady Teddy Boulder

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this

9
V5 Unsteady Freddy Boulder

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

10
V2 * Big Ted Boulder 4m

Lovely slab.

11
V2 * Jemima Boulder

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

12
V2 Sesame Street Boulder

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

13
V0 Grover Boulder

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

14
V3 R Poltergeist Boulder

low start on the arete, scary finish

15
V4 R Doppelganger Boulder

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

16
V0 Vibes Boulder 4m

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder

17
V0- The Exorcist Boulder 4m

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side

18
V0 ** Frankenstein Boulder 5m

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too.

19
Project Boulder Project 6m

Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without.

20
V4 R ** The Trance Boulder 5m

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

FA: Ang Connelly

21
V3 R * The Twilight Zone Boulder

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

22
V3 R Flick Footy Boulder

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

23

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

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