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Description

Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes

© (Atrax)

Approach

From the second creek crossing bash up and left under some roofs to reach the base of a fine curving arete. This is 'Frankenstein', the classic-as-classic-can-be V0.

© (Atrax)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

FA: Neil Wallace, 2015

Dyno project on wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump of rubbish crimps. Tried over the years by a few people, named Taught Marker some years ago by an Austrian climber.

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up.

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this.

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

Lovely slab.

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

low start on the arete, scary finish

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too.

Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without.

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

FA: Ang Connelly

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

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