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Table of contents

1. The Fear Factory 125 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.095878, -33.752437

Description:© (Atrax)

Excellent bouldering destination with a reputation for highballs with sketchy landings. In reality, there's a lot of safer stuff here too, including a few Sydney classics.

Useful Info: Please avoid excessive erosion of the access routes and the base of the walls. You don't want the top outs to get any higher, surely? Information largely drawn from Peter Balint's excellent 'Sydney Bouldering' guide. Buy one if you don't have one!

Approach:© (Atrax)

Find Boundary Road in North Epping. At the end of this, past the bowling club, is a turning circle and obvious fire trail. Follow this trail into the bush passing whale rock and continuing the way that you were heading, not down the track on the left. After about five minutes or so you cross the creek. There is an access route here, but better to go from the second creek crossing directly up to emerge in 'The Courtyard'. A little further along is the obvious approach up to the roof-capped 'Sinatra Wall'.

1.1. The Courtyard 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.096288, -33.752327

Description:© (Atrax)

Top spot for a first visit, catches morning sun and contains a number of crag classics, mostly on slabs and slabby aretes

Approach:© (Atrax)

From the second creek crossing bash up and left under some roofs to reach the base of a fine curving arete. This is 'Frankenstein', the classic-as-classic-can-be V0.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden Showers

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

V2Boulder
2 ** Elm Street

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

V5Boulder
3 ** Blunt Instrument

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

V3Boulder
4 Edward Scissorhands

Easy 'Arete' and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

V0Boulder
5 * Sounds of Seduction

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. start at the small boulder and go straight up.

V2Boulder
6 * Disco Inferno

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

V5Boulder
7 ** Rocksteady Teddy

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this

V5Boulder
8 Unsteady Freddy

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

V5Boulder
9 * Big Ted

Lovely slab

V2Boulder
10 * Jemima

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

V2Boulder
11 Sesame Street

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

V2Boulder
12 Grover

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

V0Boulder
13 Poltergeist

low start on the arete, scary finish

V3 RBoulder
14 Doppelganger

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

V4 RBoulder
15 Vibes

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder

V0Boulder
16 The Exorcist

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side

V0-Boulder
17 ** Frankenstein

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too.

V0Boulder
18 ** The Trance

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

V4 RBoulder
19 * The Twilight Zone

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

V3 RBoulder
20 Flick Footy

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

V3 RBoulder
21 Crocodile Crocodile May I Cross Your Golden River

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

V0 RBoulder

1.2. No Man's Land 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sounds on Sunday V3Boulder
2 Unrelated Entity V1Boulder
3 Thai Panic V5Boulder
4 Prancing Pony V1Boulder
5 Builder's Crack V0Boulder
6 Ken's Arete V2Boulder
7 Raspberry Jelly V3Boulder
8 Glitter Beach Barbie V0Boulder
9 Rich Vein V1Boulder
10 Vain V2Boulder

1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (Atrax)

Vertical, with comparatively friendly landings

Approach:© (Atrax)

From the 'Sinatra Wall' approach, head right. 'Lindfield Lusho' wall is the first wall to the right, with a left-facing groove up the center ('Cracked')

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Geek V0Boulder
2 Super Fly V3Boulder
3 Eligible Bachelor V2Boulder
4 ** Lindfield Lusho V2Boulder
5 000 Emergency V5Boulder
6 Cracked V0Boulder
7 Biscuit Spit V3Boulder
8 Liberace V1Boulder
9 Stud V0Boulder
10 Solid V0Boulder

1.4. The Whiteboard 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.096164, -33.752352

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jumping Smurf V2Boulder
2 Funky V1Boulder
3 Lounge V0Boulder
4 Tunes V1Boulder
5 *** Dust Monitor V4Boulder
6 The Whiteboard Affair V10Boulder
7 Permanent Marker V6Boulder
8 Sports Rorts V6Boulder

1.5. Agostino's Corner Store 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.095965, -33.752413

Description:© (Atrax)

Variety, Variety, Variety. Mostly friendly too.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Starts up the hill above the whiteboard area and goes rightwards back towards the first creek crossing. Including Golden Wall and 'Slabs' in this guide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * One Stop Shop

Short slab just around the left of Plastic Strips. Nice 2 mover

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 3m
2 Plastic Strips V1Boulder
3 * Drumstick V2Boulder
4 Leg of Ham V1Boulder
5 *** Liquorice Arete V5Boulder
6 * Monte V1Boulder
7 The Full Monte V3Boulder
8 Crusty Bread Rolls V0Boulder
9 Trolley Boy V1Boulder
10 Full of Fruit V2Boulder
11 Sour Cherry V2Boulder
12 Cracked Pepper V0Boulder
13 Matty's Little Masterpiece V1Boulder
14 F.M.C.D.s V1Boulder
15 Sherbert V0+Boulder

1.6. The Golden Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fool's Gold V3Boulder
2 Solid Gold Disco Dancer V5Boulder

1.7. The Slabs 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Arc De Triomphe

Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney.

E5 6aTrad 12m
2 Knockin' Off Orchids V0Boulder

1.8. Oddball Buttress 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cummingtonite V0Boulder
2 The Art of Mixing Drinks V2Boulder
3 The Phantom Dancer V4Boulder
4 Sunshine Crack V1Boulder
5 Back to Funk V3Boulder
6 2000 Light Years From Home V5Boulder
7 Dead Line V2Boulder
8 Marmaduke V0Boulder
9 Ink Pink You Stink V0Boulder
10 Oddity V4Boulder
11 Monday Night Metal V2Boulder

1.9. Sinatra Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.097130, -33.752077

Description:© (Atrax)

A bit of a showpiece, this roof-capped vertical wall is obvious from the track, and the main access comes straight up to it.

Approach:© (Atrax)

From the second creek crossing, walk less than 50 metres until you see the roofed wall. Up. The interesting cave to the left has some... er... alternative uses (ref: bushwalkers getting close to nature)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whisky And Cigars

Up the right arete of the wall, to the nose of the big boulder. trav right and mantle to finish.

V2Boulder
2 * Fly Me To The Moon

A lowish traverse from the right arete over to Come Fly With me, then up.

V4Boulder
3 Count Basie

Up the right side of the wall, non-stressful on feature holds

V0Boulder
4 * Check Your Head

Up the wall via good pockets below the roof's right edge to slink off right at the roof

V3Boulder
5 *** Nancy

Testpiece of the wall. Crux is on the wall, but the wobbler is over the roof.

V5 RBoulder
6 * Come Fly With Me V4Boulder
7 * You've Got The Wrong Sinatra

Crimpy wall to obvious pocket high up, finishing on jugs

V2Boulder

1.10. The Asteroid Belt 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.097355, -33.752088

Description:© (Atrax)

Left of Sinatra wall, some high stuff which doesn't always look high until you're on it (Will Robinson)

Approach:© (Atrax)

Walk left from 'Sinatra Wall' for ten seconds. you're here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Will Robinson V1Boulder
2 Corner Left of Will Robinson

Corner crack immediately L of Will Robinson

V0Boulder 6m
3 Space Probe V3Boulder
4 Tyson's Red Rocket V7Boulder
5 ** Fear Factor 1 V1Boulder
6 The Tender Trap V9Boulder
7 Right Hole V5Boulder
8 The Shop Window V3Boulder
9 Left Hole V3Boulder
10 Zydecat V1Boulder
11 Lucky Oceans V5Boulder
12 Pizzarete V8Boulder
13 Pete's Arete V8Boulder

1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (Atrax)

Some steeper stuff and some nifty shorter problems. Watch out for lizards basking in the top break of Kennedy Wall - they don't like boulderers much!

Approach:© (Atrax)

Walk round left from 'Sinatra Wall' past the Asteroid Belt and the descent corridor. You'll see Kennedy wall appear on your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dead On Arrival V5Boulder
2 Kill The Poor V6Boulder
3 Sit Down and Kill The Poor V8Boulder
4 ** Chemical Warfare V4Boulder
5 * Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death V2Boulder
6 Dogbite V4Boulder
7 Fresh Fruit For Rotting Vegetables V4Boulder
8 Viva Las Vegas V1Boulder
9 ** The Right Cheek V4Boulder
10 ** Dave's Butt

No sides.

V3Boulder
11 Daddy Walrus V1Boulder
12 * Dr. Elephant V0Boulder
13 The Runaway Subway Train V1Boulder
14 My Tie V3Boulder
15 *** Lime Spider

Stay on right side of arete.

V4Boulder
16 High Low Jolly Peppers V5Boulder
17 Blackback V0Boulder
18 Trap Door V5Boulder
19 Anwar V0-Boulder
20 Black Panther V2Boulder
21 Hugging Hussein V2Boulder
22 Malcolm X V4Boulder

1.12. Blubber Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (Atrax)

Separated from the main crag, four small problems on an isolated wall (quiet, less frequented)

Approach:© (Atrax)

wander 50m up the hill from Kennedy Wall and you should find an orange overhang. Welcome!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rolls Of Cheese V4Boulder
2 Pure Chewing Satisfaction V3Boulder
3 Fatty Deposits V3Boulder
4 Whale Killer V1Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0- The Exorcist Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Anwar Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
V0 Crocodile Crocodile May I Cross Your Golden River Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Edward Scissorhands Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
** Frankenstein Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Grover Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Vibes Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Builder's Crack Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Glitter Beach Barbie Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Cracked Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Solid Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Stud Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
The Geek Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Lounge Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
Cracked Pepper Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Crusty Bread Rolls Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Knockin' Off Orchids Boulder 1.7. The Slabs
Cummingtonite Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
Ink Pink You Stink Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
Marmaduke Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
Count Basie Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
Corner Left of Will Robinson Boulder 6m 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Blackback Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
* Dr. Elephant Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
V0+ Sherbert Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
V1 Prancing Pony Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Rich Vein Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Unrelated Entity Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Liberace Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Funky Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
Tunes Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
F.M.C.D.s Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Leg of Ham Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Matty's Little Masterpiece Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
* Monte Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
* One Stop Shop Boulder 3m 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Plastic Strips Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Trolley Boy Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Sunshine Crack Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
** Fear Factor 1 Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Will Robinson Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Zydecat Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Daddy Walrus Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
The Runaway Subway Train Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Viva Las Vegas Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Whale Killer Boulder 1.12. Blubber Wall
V2 * Big Ted Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Golden Showers Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
* Jemima Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Sesame Street Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
* Sounds of Seduction Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Ken's Arete Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Vain Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Eligible Bachelor Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
** Lindfield Lusho Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Jumping Smurf Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
* Drumstick Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Full of Fruit Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Sour Cherry Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Dead Line Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
Monday Night Metal Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
The Art of Mixing Drinks Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
Whisky And Cigars Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
* You've Got The Wrong Sinatra Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
Black Panther Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
* Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Hugging Hussein Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
V3 ** Blunt Instrument Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Flick Footy Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Poltergeist Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
* The Twilight Zone Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Raspberry Jelly Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Sounds on Sunday Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
Biscuit Spit Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
Super Fly Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
The Full Monte Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Fool's Gold Boulder 1.6. The Golden Wall
Back to Funk Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
* Check Your Head Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
Left Hole Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Space Probe Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
The Shop Window Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
** Dave's Butt Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
My Tie Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Fatty Deposits Boulder 1.12. Blubber Wall
Pure Chewing Satisfaction Boulder 1.12. Blubber Wall
V4 Doppelganger Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
** The Trance Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
*** Dust Monitor Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
Oddity Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
The Phantom Dancer Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
* Come Fly With Me Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
* Fly Me To The Moon Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
** Chemical Warfare Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Dogbite Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Fresh Fruit For Rotting Vegetables Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
*** Lime Spider Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Malcolm X Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
** The Right Cheek Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Rolls Of Cheese Boulder 1.12. Blubber Wall
V5 * Disco Inferno Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
** Elm Street Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
** Rocksteady Teddy Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Unsteady Freddy Boulder 1.1. The Courtyard
Thai Panic Boulder 1.2. No Man's Land
000 Emergency Boulder 1.3. Lindfield Lusho Wall
*** Liquorice Arete Boulder 1.5. Agostino's Corner Store
Solid Gold Disco Dancer Boulder 1.6. The Golden Wall
2000 Light Years From Home Boulder 1.8. Oddball Buttress
*** Nancy Boulder 1.9. Sinatra Wall
Lucky Oceans Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Right Hole Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Dead On Arrival Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
High Low Jolly Peppers Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
Trap Door Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
E5 6a *** Arc De Triomphe Trad 12m 1.7. The Slabs
V6 Permanent Marker Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
Sports Rorts Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard
Kill The Poor Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
V7 Tyson's Red Rocket Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
V8 Pete's Arete Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Pizzarete Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
Sit Down and Kill The Poor Boulder 1.11. Kennedy Wall and Beyond
V9 The Tender Trap Boulder 1.10. The Asteroid Belt
V10 The Whiteboard Affair Boulder 1.4. The Whiteboard