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Routes in The Fear Factory

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 144 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Courtyard
V11 Where The Wild Things Are

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

FA: Neil Wallace, 2015

Boulder 7m
V10 Project Runway

Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas

FA: Tom Farrell, 2017

Boulder 4m
V2 Golden Showers

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

Boulder 4m
V5 Elm Street

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

Boulder 4m
V3 Blunt Instrument

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

Matti Puckridge

Boulder 4m
V5 A Sharp Knife In The Back

Climb the wall right of Blunt Instrument using the arete, topping out to the right.

FA: Ben 'Me! Me! Me!' Barin, 2005

Boulder 3m
V0 Edward Scissorhands

Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

Boulder 4m
V2 Sounds of Seduction

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up.

Boulder 4m
V5 Disco Inferno

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

Boulder 5m
V5 Cowboy Beebop

Stand start and up the wall between Disco Inferno and Rocksteady Teddy.

FA: Neil Wallace, 12 Aug 2019

Boulder 5m
V5 Rocksteady Teddy

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this.

Dan Stephenson

Boulder 5m
V5 Unsteady Freddy

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

FA: me, 2011

Boulder 5m
V2 Big Ted

Lovely slab.

Boulder 4m
V2 Jemima

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

Boulder 4m
V2 Sesame Street

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

Boulder 4m
V0 Grover

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

Boulder 4m
V3 R Poltergeist

low start on the arete, scary finish

Boulder 4m
V4 R Doppelganger

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

Boulder 4m
V0 Vibes

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Boulder 4m
V0- The Exorcist

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Boulder 4m
V0 Frankenstein

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Boulder 5m
V4 R When Snail's Attack

Climb under the peak to about three quarter boulder height, run out of feet and bail to the arete.

FA: Chris, 23 Jul 2020

Boulder 6m
Project

Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without.

BoulderProject 6m
V4 R The Trance

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

FA: Ang Connelly

Boulder 5m
V3 R The Twilight Zone

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

Boulder 5m
V3 R Flick Footy

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

Boulder 4m
V0 R Crocodile Crocodile May I Cross Your Golden River

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

Boulder 4m
The Acrachronisms
Acrachronism 1

Undercut crack, impossible to avoid the tree topping out.

TradProject 3m
28 Margins of the Mind

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 18 May 2022

Trad 12m
Acrachronism 3

A full 4.5m of mostly thin ceiling crack, flared turn, and a couple of jams to finish. Even has some roof holds and pockets.

Trad 6m
The Whiteboard
V2 Jumping Smurf

Jump to the top of the arete and over.

Boulder 3m
V1 Funky

Up left of the corner.

Boulder 3m
V0 Lounge

The centre.

Boulder 3m
V1 Tunes

Just right of the arete.

Boulder 3m
V4 Dust Monitor

Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side.

FA: Neil Wallace

Boulder 4m
V12 Blackboard

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

FA: Sharik Walker

Boulder 4m
V10 Nails on the Board

FA: Sharik Walker

Boulder 4m
V10 The Whiteboard Affair

From the very thin orange break, make a tricky and technical jump start, then take on the powerful and slopey top. V8 from Pete, V10 from Sharik Walker...

FA: Pete Balint

Boulder 3m
V6 Permanent Marker

A powerful, continuous sloping arete. Sit start, then slap up the left leaning arete.

FA: Neil Wallace

Boulder 3m
V6 Sports Rorts

A nice line, a big jump and a tough top.

Boulder 3m
Agostino's Corner Store
V1 One Stop Shop

Short slab just around the left of Plastic Strips. Nice 2 mover

Boulder 3m
V1 Plastic Strips

The entrance to the store. Good climbing up the buttress.

Boulder 3m
V2 Drumstick

Start off the low broken jug.

Boulder 3m
V1 Leg of Ham

Hands free balancey fun up the slab.

Boulder 3m
V5 Liquorice Arete

Sit down then slap your way up the overhanging slopey nose. Powerful and sustained to what some consider a tough mantle.

Boulder 3m
V1 Monte

A cute little arete with a dynamic start and a physical finish. The wall on the right side of the crack is off.

Boulder 3m
V3 The Full Monte

This time establish yourself completely on the arete before moving up.

Boulder 3m
V0 Crusty Bread Rolls

A fun short problem up the juggy arete, start low for even better value.

Boulder 4m
V1 Trolley Boy

The faint arete, starting on its left.

Boulder 4m
V2 Full of Fruit
Boulder 4m
V2 Sour Cherry

Up just left of the arete.

Boulder 4m
V0 Cracked Pepper

The little arete on good holds.

Boulder 4m
V1 Matty's Little Masterpiece

From the low break, crank up just right of the arete.

Boulder 4m
V1 F.M.C.D.s

Follow the committing ramp rightwards to the top. Bad landing.

Boulder 5m
V0+ Sherbert

Surprisingly good and continuous climbing up the steep little buttress.

Boulder 5m
The Golden Wall
V3 Fool's Gold

A very weird almost classic. The series of good deep, but always moist, pockets have a completely unannounced tendency to send you flying backwards into the conveniently located spotting tree.

Boulder 5m
V5 Solid Gold Disco Dancer

The twin pocketed seams offer sustained, classy and committing climbing.

Mantis

Boulder 5m
The Slabs
{UK} E5 6a Arc De Triomphe

Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney.

Trad 12m
V0 Knockin' Off Orchids

Geographically the first problem at the Factory and a real trouser filler it is too. Start in the corner, move up and right then committingly follow the seam to the top. Very bad landing.

Boulder
Oddball Buttress
V0 Cummingtonite

Off the break and up. Forgettable.

Boulder 3m
V2 The Art of Mixing Drinks

From the low right facing flake, move left and up. Thin and committing. Bad landing.

Boulder 3m
V4 The Phantom Dancer

Potentially a horrendous landing.

Boulder 4m
V1 Sunshine Crack

Not as relaxing as a Caribbean cruise, but don't be afraid there's no jamming here mon. There is a fair bit of exposure though. Bad landing

Boulder 4m
V3 Back to Funk

Get down and get groovy, this old skool classic has got some funking moves above a bad ass landing.

Boulder 5m
V5 2000 Light Years From Home

Start in the little cave and then (hopefully) float up the balancey, technical and stunning arete. Trend right to top, not left via the decent rail. Landing? Probably very messily on the track way down below - don't find out!

Jack Folkes

FA: Neil Wallace

Boulder 8m
V2 Dead Line

The left side of the front of the buttress. Committing and airy. What landing?

Boulder 6m
V0 Marmaduke

Big, tall, hairy and beautiful. Up the right side of the arete. Don't fall.

Boulder 6m
V0 Ink Pink You Stink

Start as for Marmaduke, then follow the big footholds and the hillside up and left around the arete to a distinct crux.

Boulder 5m
V4 Oddity

Short and tough stuff off the layaway in the gully.

Boulder 3m
V2 Monday Night Metal

Stay on the right of the arete. Goey.

Boulder 3m
No Man's Land
V3 Sounds on Sunday

Cruise your way up the right side of this little arete. Take care, the large block and the tough top has already sent one victim halfway down the hill.

Boulder 4m
V1 Unrelated Entity

Bear hug the buttress. Sandy and a tough top.

Boulder 4m
V5 Thai Panic

Tasty! A great line up the dark wall. Crimpy, cranky and very committing. Horrendous landing.

Boulder 5m
V1 Prancing Pony

A nice little trot up an airy buttress. Not a great landing.

Boulder 6m
V0 Builder's Crack

The corner crack.

Boulder 5m
V2 Ken's Arete

Scramble then tackle the totally committing arete on its right side.

Boulder 5m
V3 Raspberry Jelly

Stand on the ledge, take a deep breath and climb the short face using the right arete. Totally committing, bad landing.

Boulder 5m
V0 Glitter Beach Barbie

An ideal Factory intro. Up the right side of the arete on good holds, mantle left to finish.

Boulder 4m
V1 Rich Vein

Up the thin seam staying away from the crack. Much better than it looks.

Boulder 4m
V2 Vain

Stand on the ledge, then commit to the short crimpy slab staying left of Rich Vein.

Boulder 3m
Lindfield Lusho Wall
V0 The Geek

From the bottom of the flake, straight up.

Boulder 3m
V3 Super Fly

Excellent funky arete-ing. Get down and do it!

Boulder 4m
V2 Eligible Bachelor

A beautiful problem up the right side of the wall.

Boulder 4m
V2 Lindfield Lusho

Classic Factory wall climb.

Boulder 5m
V5 000 Emergency

Check your insurance policy and have the phone at hand, then scramble up (too high) and procrastinate over the short committing crux. The narrow buttress between the crack and the arete. Nail biting excellence with a horrendous landing.

FA: Pete Balint

Boulder 6m
V0 Cracked

The corner.

Boulder 6m
V3 Biscuit Spit

A very committing crimpy narrow line just left of Cracked.

Boulder 6m
V1 Liberace

Stylish. A low crux in the middle of the wall leads to a delightful airy finish just right of the arete.

Boulder 5m
V0 Stud

Climb the arete with the twin spikes to an airy finish.

Boulder 5m
V0 Solid

'I promise it is.' Juggy fun and a mantle too.

Boulder 5m
Sinatra Wall
V2 Whisky And Cigars

Up the right arete of the wall, to the nose of the big boulder. Traverse right and mantle to finish.

Boulder 4m
V4 Fly Me To The Moon

A lowish traverse from the right arete over to Come Fly With me, then up.

Boulder 5m
V0 Count Basie

Up the right side of the wall, non-stressful on feature holds

Boulder 3m
V3 Check Your Head

Up the wall via good pockets below the roof's right edge to slink off right at the roof.

Boulder 5m
V5 R Nancy

Testpiece of the wall. Crux is on the wall, but the wobbler is over the roof.

Boulder 5m
V4 Come Fly With Me

From the low flared hole, make a tough first move then trend left to finish.

Boulder 5m
V2 You've Got The Wrong Sinatra

Crimpy wall to obvious pocket high up, finishing on jugs.

Boulder 5m
The Asteroid Belt
V1 Will Robinson

Up the face.

Boulder 4m
V0 Corner Left of Will Robinson

Corner crack immediately L of Will Robinson

Boulder 6m
V3 Space Probe

Committing spacey greatness.

Boulder 5m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 144 routes.

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