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Description

The Caves was discovered on a misguided adventure to find the Frontline. There are about 20 individual problems ranging from V0 to V11. The problems here are in general more steep and pumpy than any of the other areas.

'The Caves' are east facing so while the sun makes it in the morning, rain never does. The rock is surprisingly clean and solid for Sydney sandstone and the holds are very skin friendly.

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Approach

Referring to the location map park in the Ted Horwood Reserve car park just off Renown Rd. Walk out the eastern end through the gate and down the gravel road inbetween the soccer ovals. If it's the weekend, wave to all the little soccer lads giving you strange looks with your "portable bed" on your back and buy a bag of 50c mixed lollies from the canteen. At the end of the ovals, where there is an electrical box on a stand, scramble down the little bank to safety from the prying eyes. Follow this wandering track for about 100m and you'll come right out on top of the Trenches. Make your way into the Trenches then head north for about 20m and you'll find several caves. This is it.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0- Fizzle Boulder

Easy up the short buggy slab to the left of the big two trees on the way to the caves

2
V1 Razzle Boulder

Slightly right of Fizzle, left of the bush up the slab.

3
V4 Reader's Wives Boulder

Big pocket to the big jug just beside the large tree with a pretty bad landing.

4

Don't use the painful mono, and this is a powerful, committing and good problem.

5
V4 Fat Women Boulder

From the jug at the far left corner of the cave move technically up to the slopey ramp and over.

6
V6 ** Fat Women var Boulder

Same as Fat Women but start all the way back at Y2k

7
V5 *** Y2K Boulder

Long pumpy roof climbing... and the crux is at the end. From way back in the cave come all the way out to finish leftwards up the slopey ramp. A classic of the genre.

FA: Rob Saunders

8
V6 * Y2Kontinued Boulder

Same as Y2K but finish right of the slopey ramp. Not as good, but still very pumpy and fun.

FA: Rob Saunders

9
V6 Crank@pumper.com Boulder

Keep going as per Bring it on but finish above the huge thread holds. (The big foot ledge is out)

FA: Rob Saunders

10
V6 *** Bring It On Boulder

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders?

11
V3 Crank v2.0 Boulder

Follow the big holds straight up. Low start & Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

12
V3 Crank v3.0 Boulder

Low start then up the black streak. Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

13
V2 Wank Mag Boulder

Up just right of the foot ledge to the break, then back left to finish up Crank v3.0

14
V2 * Bald Bianca Boulder

Out the roof to a lovely rounded mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

15
V3 Sao Boulder
16
V2 Secret Stash Boulder
17
V3 * Buddha Boys Boulder

From the back of the sandy cave to a difficult move and top out the right end.

Start: Sit

18
V4 R * 20 Minute TKO Boulder

Cool moves out the roof to a pocket and just match on the rounded top. DON'T be stupid and top out like Tim or you will understand how this problem got its name!!!!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

19
V0 Untouched Boulder

Up the sandy prow.

20
V2 unamed Boulder

Up face to an easy top.

FA: Tim O'Neill

21
V0 Project Boulder

Start up A9 and traverse the whole cave topping out up A5.

22
V4 ** King of Quality Boulder

Traverse out under the lip and mantle onto the top where you can.

Start: Sit

FA: Dave Kellermann

23
V10 Mr Winston Boulder

FA: James Scarborough, 2002

24
V11 Arcane Power Boulder

Mr Winston variant.

FA: Aaron Liu, 2002