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Description

The Caves was discovered on a misguided adventure to find the Frontline. There are about 20 individual problems ranging from V0 to V7. The problems here are in general more steep and pumpy than any of the other areas.

'The caves' are east facing so while the sun makes it in the morning, rain never does. The rock is surprisingly clean and solid for Sydney sandstone and the holds are very skin friendly.

© (secretary)

Approach

Referring to the location map park in the Ted Horwood Reserve car park just off Renown Rd. Walk out the eastern end through the gate and down the gravel road inbetween the soccer ovals. If it's the weekend, wave to all the little soccer lads giving you strange looks with your "portable bed" on your back and buy a bag of 50c mixed lollies from the canteen. At the end of the ovals, where there is an electrical box on a stand, scramble down the little bank to safety from the prying eyes. Follow this wandering track for about 100m and you'll come right out on top of the Trenches. Make your way into the Trenches then head north for about 20m and you'll find several caves. This is it.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0- Fizzle Boulder
2
V1 Razzle Boulder
3
V4 Reader's Wives Boulder
5
V4 Fat Women Boulder
6
V6 Fat Women var Boulder
7
V5 *** Y2K Boulder

Start in the back of the cave and top out left.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

8
V6 * Y2Kontinued Boulder

Start up A5 but top out straight up.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

9
V6 Crank@pumper.com Boulder

Start up A5 and finish up left of A7.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

10
V6 *** Bring It On Boulder

Start up A5 and traverse the whole cave topping out the right end.

Start: Sit

FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders?

11
V3 Crank v2.0 Boulder

From the lowest rail foot free up right to a big last move.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

12
V3 Crank v3.0 Boulder

Start at A7 but go diagonally up right to top.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

13
V2 Wank Mag Boulder
14
V2 * Bald Bianca Boulder

Out the roof to a lovely rounded mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

15
V3 Sao Boulder
16
V2 Secret Stash Boulder
17
V3 * Buddha Boys Boulder

From the back of the sandy cave to a difficult move and top out the right end.

Start: Sit

18
V4 R * 20 Minute TKO Boulder

Cool moves out the roof to a pocket and just match on the rounded top. DON'T be stupid and top out like Tim or you will understand how this problem got its name!!!!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

19
V0 Untouched Boulder

Up the sandy prow.

20
V2 unamed Boulder

Up face to an easy top.

FA: Tim O'Neill

21
V0 Project Boulder

Start up A9 and traverse the whole cave topping out up A5.

22
V4 ** King of Quality Boulder

Traverse out under the lip and mantle onto the top where you can.

Start: Sit

FA: Dave Kellermann