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Table of contents

1. The Trenches 122 routes in Sector

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.009103, -33.761762

Approach:

Find Renown Rd in Baulkham Hills. On the North Side of the 'Big Dipper' turn into 'Ted Horwood Reserve' (Plenty of parking). In the back left corner of the carpark upon entrance follow the path leading in between two soccer fields. Keep walking straight, through the gap in the fences onto the bush trail that starts with a steep descent to the right. Follow the trail about 100 meters and the trenches will soon appear

History:

The Balkans is partly located in the Sydney suburb of Baulkham Hills so it’s no wonder that its location was initially mistaken for "Balkan Hills", and the name has stuck. The Balkans was discovered in early 1999 by Tim O’Neill and Rob Saunders and the pair immediately set to work putting up problems (although a small area nearby, called the Swampland, was discovered some time earlier by Kevin van Tillburg and Rod Wills). With the help of Adam Griffiths and visiting US student, Matt Wilder, original activity was focussed on the eastern side of the valley at an area named the Frontline. Some other Sydney boulderers were enlisted, and Peter Balint, Jason Whitton and Angela Connolly began developing problems on the western side of the valley at an area named the Trenches. Activity varied between the western and eastern sides throughout the winter of ’99 with a third area called the Caves being developed along the way.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Medical Mantle

FA: Rob Saunders

V4 Boulder
2 Zac’s Problem

Lunge from crimps to below overhanging boulder, then very gently pull the boulder onto your head!

FA: Zac Vertrees

V3 Boulder
3 Project

Desperate rounded arete.

V0 Boulder
4 Mortar-fied

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V7 Boulder
5 Where’s the Hero?

Confusing?

FA: Matti Puckridge

V2 Boulder
6 Freedom Fighter

Up the diagonal line of pockets to an awkward mantle staying inbetween I3 and I4.

Start: Sit

FA: Adam Griffiths

V6 Boulder
7 Surgical Slopers

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
8 * unamed

Start on same pocket as B4 but go right this time.

FA: Jason Whitton

V4 R Boulder

1.1. The Outpost 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hair Bear V2 Boulder
2 Dreadnought V2 Boulder
3 Little Miss Arms V0+ Boulder
4 Yeah V0- Boulder
5 Mr Big V1 Boulder
6 Mr Thin V4 Boulder
7 Ado's Willy V5 Boulder
8 Mr Gold V3 Boulder
9 Mr Arate V1 Boulder
10 KC And The Sunshine Band V6 Boulder

1.2. AWOL 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lardy Lips

Mantle the big jug at head height.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V2 Boulder
2 * Warlayirti

Start on the LH and RH underclings then up slopes to stretched out top out.

No idea what the name means

Start: Sit start.

FA: Adam Griffiths, 2000

V6 Boulder
3 *** AWOL

Climb up and out of hole to a nice seat before an'interesting' mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Ange Conolly

V2 R Boulder 4m
4 ** AWOL Dyno Variant

Start in the cave on slopers/crimp to the left of the AWOL start ledge. Dyno from here straight out the gap to the jug rail. Top out as for AWOL.

V4 R Boulder 4m
5 * Gallipoli

Start on lowest jug and then long moves staying right of A1.

Start: Sit

FA: John Palmer

V4 Boulder
6 ** Bolga

Start on first jug of A2 and traverse left through crimps and pockets to big undercling of A0c and continue across pockets to finish up A0b.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V4 Boulder

1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breakfast Bar V0- Boulder
2 * Cereal Wars V1 Boulder
3 Self Help Junkie V0 Boulder
4 ** Iron Man Food V4 Boulder
5 Curry-Kenny V3 Boulder

1.4. Bunker Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hunker Down V0 Boulder
2 Hand To Hand Combat

Difficult start to left and right hand bear hugging pockets, wrestle a while then finish through the mud.

FA: Tim O'Neill

V4 Boulder
3 ** Take That Ferdinand

Two finger pocket to two finger pocket to top, sounds simple doesn't it!

FA: Tim O'Neill

V5 R Boulder
4 ** Stormin' Norman

Gaston or undercling the pockets to a scary top out.

FA: Pete Balint

V3 R Boulder
5 Stormin’ Norman and the Dooshaphones

Pointless sit start to an otherwise great problem.

Start: Sit

FA: Pete Balint

V8 R Boulder
6 Stormin; Norman And The Douchevones V6 Boulder
7 * Hamberger Hill

Big first move up left from big pocket then finish straight up and over.

FA: Jason Whitton

V6 R Boulder
8 * Hamburger Hill (sit start)

Pointless sit start to an otherwise great problem.

Start: Sit

FA: Jason Whitton

V7 R Boulder
9 *** Full Metal Underpants V4 Boulder
10 * Tank Girl

Huge first move from lovely starting crimp then up and around bulge.

FA: Ange Conolly

V5 R Boulder
11 Trenchfoot

Up arete and through scoop.

FA: Pete Balint

V4 R Boulder
12 *** Friendly Fire

FA: Pete Balint, 2000

V3 Boulder
13 Midway V7 Boulder
14 *** Legacy

FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000

V3 Boulder 4m
15 Liberte V3 Boulder
16 ** The Resistance

Up and around bulging arete through broken chickenheads to rounded sloper, then mantle like a demon.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V3 Boulder
17 Once-A-Day V0 Boulder
18 Twice-A-Day V0 Boulder
19 * Thrice-A-Day

Sit start with both hands matched on two small rounded knobs below the big juggy ledge.

Move directly up to the ledge then right hand around to the big chickenhead on the right of the prow, grab the top then swing yourself round to the right side of the prow and top out and you're done!

V1 Boulder
20 Exodus

Power to the sidepull and up through water runs to an easier top out.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
21 Exodus sit start V5 Boulder
22 * Exodus-A-Day V2 Boulder 2m

1.5. In The Trenches 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 When Animals Attack V1 Boulder
2 Here Comes the Cavalry V0 Boulder
3 Self-Immolation V2 Boulder
4 Immolation V1 Boulder
5 Behind Enemy Lines V0 Boulder
6 Nanna's Kneebar (Mk 2) V2 Boulder
7 Zac Attacks V3 Boulder
8 Bamboo Curtain V5 Boulder
9 ** Keep Your Helmet On

Slap for'letterbox', go right to pockets then long reach to top.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
10 * Grenade

Pull way out left from Helmets starting hold (skipping the'letterbox'), up to rounded hold and then big dyno right to the same finish as Helmet.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V6 Boulder
11 ** Blood In The Trenches

Up arete to tricky finish.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V4 R Boulder
12 * Napalm Death

FA: Pete Balint, 2000

V2 R Boulder 3m
13 * DDT

FA: Pete Balint, 2000

V3 Boulder
14 Blood On Your Boots V0- Boulder 3m
15 George V1 Boulder
16 ** Dubya's Dyno V2 Boulder 3m
17 * The Nude Bomb V1 Boulder 3m
18 * The Rude Bomb V2 Boulder 3m
19 Commissioner Beanie

Standing start to the pocket out right then up and up to a scary mantle.

FA: Ivan Vostinar

V6 R Boulder
20 *** Incoming!

Start on the big pocket, then up to the crimps and over through the seam. A fall from the crimps would be nasty causing observers to yell ….'Innncoming'!

FA: Pete Balint

V3 R Boulder
21 ** Black Flag

Jump to the top from the good pocket then over.

FA: Ange Conolly

V3 Boulder 3m
22 *** arete project

FA: neil / matt kelly ?

V9 Boulder
23 Klink V0 Boulder 3m
24 Digging In

Start in the pocket, slap right and then begin the mantling fun.

FA: Tim O'Neill

V2 Boulder

1.6. Dead Man's Gulch 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cosgrove Corner

Up the arete.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V5 Boulder
2 Shellshocked V5 Boulder
3 ** Roller Girl

Tricky first move to chickenhead and mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V4 Boulder
4 Mortified V5 Boulder
5 Dilly Dally

Up face just right of J1.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
6 Bang V0- Boulder
7 Pop V0+ Boulder

1.7. The Persian Gulf 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yellow Ribbon V0+ Boulder
2 Taliban V0+ Boulder
3 Military Nurses

Start: Sit

FA: Adam Griffiths

V1 Boulder
4 The Thieving Walrus

Start: Sit

FA: Adam Griffiths

V3 Boulder
5 Amputations

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder

1.8. The Mess Kitchen 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cheif Smurf

Pleasant sandy prow using both aretes.

Start: Sit

FA: Matt Wrigley

V1 Boulder
2 The Table

Mantle onto the little block. I can't believe anyone bothered either!

Start: Sit

FA: Adrian Whittaker

V0 Boulder
3 * Porn Star

Start on the lowest jug out left then through slopers and pockets to K3.

Start: Sit

FA: Matt Tait

V8 Boulder
4 *** Bianca's Boobies

Start directly under the prow on pockets then cross K2 and top out.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000

V10 R Boulder
5 Dirk Diggler

Thuggery to chickenhead then awkward mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
6 Single Serve V2 Boulder
7 Single Serve left sit start V5 Boulder
8 Single Serve right sit start V3 Boulder
9 Jelly Wrestling Smurf V0 Boulder
10 Shark Fin Soup

Undercling start to left lip traverse.

Start: Sit

FA: Adrian Whittaker

V2 Boulder
11 Declaration

Incredible mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder

1.9. The Caves 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.009282, -33.760668

Description:© (secretary)

The Caves was discovered on a misguided adventure to find the Frontline. There are about 20 individual problems ranging from V0 to V11. The problems here are in general more steep and pumpy than any of the other areas.

'The Caves' are east facing so while the sun makes it in the morning, rain never does. The rock is surprisingly clean and solid for Sydney sandstone and the holds are very skin friendly.

Approach:© (secretary)

Referring to the location map park in the Ted Horwood Reserve car park just off Renown Rd. Walk out the eastern end through the gate and down the gravel road inbetween the soccer ovals. If it's the weekend, wave to all the little soccer lads giving you strange looks with your "portable bed" on your back and buy a bag of 50c mixed lollies from the canteen. At the end of the ovals, where there is an electrical box on a stand, scramble down the little bank to safety from the prying eyes. Follow this wandering track for about 100m and you'll come right out on top of the Trenches. Make your way into the Trenches then head north for about 20m and you'll find several caves. This is it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fizzle

Easy up the short buggy slab to the left of the big two trees on the way to the caves

V0- Boulder
2 Razzle

Slightly right of Fizzle, left of the bush up the slab.

V1 Boulder
3 Reader's Wives

Big pocket to the big jug just beside the large tree with a pretty bad landing.

V4 Boulder
4 Reader's Wives var

Don't use the painful mono, and this is a powerful, committing and good problem.

V7 Boulder
5 Fat Women

From the jug at the far left corner of the cave move technically up to the slopey ramp and over.

V4 Boulder
6 ** Fat Women var

Same as Fat Women but start all the way back at Y2k

V6 Boulder
7 *** Y2K

Long pumpy roof climbing... and the crux is at the end. From way back in the cave come all the way out to finish leftwards up the slopey ramp. A classic of the genre.

FA: Rob Saunders

V5 Boulder
8 * Y2Kontinued

Same as Y2K but finish right of the slopey ramp. Not as good, but still very pumpy and fun.

FA: Rob Saunders

V6 Boulder
9 Crank@pumper.com

Keep going as per Bring it on but finish above the huge thread holds. (The big foot ledge is out)

FA: Rob Saunders

V6 Boulder
10 *** Bring It On

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders?

V6 Boulder
11 Crank v2.0

Follow the big holds straight up. Low start & Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
12 Crank v3.0

Low start then up the black streak. Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

V3 Boulder
13 Wank Mag

Up just right of the foot ledge to the break, then back left to finish up Crank v3.0

V2 Boulder
14 * Bald Bianca

Out the roof to a lovely rounded mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V2 Boulder
15 Sao V3 Boulder
16 Secret Stash V2 Boulder
17 * Buddha Boys

From the back of the sandy cave to a difficult move and top out the right end.

Start: Sit

V3 Boulder
18 * 20 Minute TKO

Cool moves out the roof to a pocket and just match on the rounded top. DON'T be stupid and top out like Tim or you will understand how this problem got its name!!!!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

V4 R Boulder
19 Untouched

Up the sandy prow.

V0 Boulder
20 unamed

Up face to an easy top.

FA: Tim O'Neill

V2 Boulder
21 Project

Start up A9 and traverse the whole cave topping out up A5.

V0 Boulder
22 ** King of Quality

Traverse out under the lip and mantle onto the top where you can.

Start: Sit

FA: Dave Kellermann

V4 Boulder
23 Mr Winston

FA: James Scarborough, 2002

V10 Boulder
24 Arcane Power

Mr Winston variant.

FA: Aaron Liu, 2002

V11 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0- Yeah Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Breakfast Bar Boulder 1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder
Blood On Your Boots Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
Bang Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Fizzle Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V0 Project Boulder 1. The Trenches
Self Help Junkie Boulder 1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder
Hunker Down Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Once-A-Day Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Twice-A-Day Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Behind Enemy Lines Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Here Comes the Cavalry Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Klink Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
Jelly Wrestling Smurf Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
The Table Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
Project Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Untouched Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V0+ Little Miss Arms Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Pop Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Taliban Boulder 1.7. The Persian Gulf
Yellow Ribbon Boulder 1.7. The Persian Gulf
V1 Mr Arate Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Mr Big Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
* Cereal Wars Boulder 1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder
* Thrice-A-Day Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
George Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Immolation Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
* The Nude Bomb Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
When Animals Attack Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Military Nurses Boulder 1.7. The Persian Gulf
* Cheif Smurf Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
Razzle Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V2 Where’s the Hero? Boulder 1. The Trenches
Dreadnought Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Hair Bear Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
* Lardy Lips Boulder 1.2. AWOL
* Exodus-A-Day Boulder 2m 1.4. Bunker Wall
Digging In Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
** Dubya's Dyno Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
Nanna's Kneebar (Mk 2) Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Self-Immolation Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
* The Rude Bomb Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
Shark Fin Soup Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
Single Serve Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
* Bald Bianca Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Secret Stash Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Wank Mag Boulder 1.9. The Caves
unamed Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V2 R *** AWOL Boulder 4m 1.2. AWOL
* Napalm Death Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
V3 Surgical Slopers Boulder 1. The Trenches
Zac’s Problem Boulder 1. The Trenches
Mr Gold Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Curry-Kenny Boulder 1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder
Exodus Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
*** Friendly Fire Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
*** Legacy Boulder 4m 1.4. Bunker Wall
Liberte Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
** The Resistance Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
** Black Flag Boulder 3m 1.5. In The Trenches
* DDT Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
** Keep Your Helmet On Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Zac Attacks Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Dilly Dally Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Amputations Boulder 1.7. The Persian Gulf
The Thieving Walrus Boulder 1.7. The Persian Gulf
Declaration Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
Dirk Diggler Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
Single Serve right sit start Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
* Buddha Boys Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Crank v2.0 Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Crank v3.0 Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Sao Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V3 R ** Stormin' Norman Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
*** Incoming! Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
V4 Medical Mantle Boulder 1. The Trenches
Mr Thin Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
** Bolga Boulder 1.2. AWOL
* Gallipoli Boulder 1.2. AWOL
** Iron Man Food Boulder 1.3. The Grant Kenny Boulder
*** Full Metal Underpants Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Hand To Hand Combat Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
** Roller Girl Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Fat Women Boulder 1.9. The Caves
** King of Quality Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Reader's Wives Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V4 R * unamed Boulder 1. The Trenches
** AWOL Dyno Variant Boulder 4m 1.2. AWOL
Trenchfoot Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
** Blood In The Trenches Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
* 20 Minute TKO Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V5 Ado's Willy Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
Exodus sit start Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Bamboo Curtain Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
Cosgrove Corner Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Mortified Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Shellshocked Boulder 1.6. Dead Man's Gulch
Single Serve left sit start Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
*** Y2K Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V5 R ** Take That Ferdinand Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
* Tank Girl Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
V6 Freedom Fighter Boulder 1. The Trenches
KC And The Sunshine Band Boulder 1.1. The Outpost
* Warlayirti Boulder 1.2. AWOL
Stormin; Norman And The Douchevones Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
* Grenade Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
*** Bring It On Boulder 1.9. The Caves
Crank@pumper.com Boulder 1.9. The Caves
** Fat Women var Boulder 1.9. The Caves
* Y2Kontinued Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V6 R * Hamberger Hill Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Commissioner Beanie Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
V7 Mortar-fied Boulder 1. The Trenches
Midway Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
Reader's Wives var Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V7 R * Hamburger Hill (sit start) Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
V8 * Porn Star Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
V8 R Stormin’ Norman and the Dooshaphones Boulder 1.4. Bunker Wall
V9 *** arete project Boulder 1.5. In The Trenches
V10 Mr Winston Boulder 1.9. The Caves
V10 R *** Bianca's Boobies Boulder 1.8. The Mess Kitchen
V11 Arcane Power Boulder 1.9. The Caves