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Grade Route
1 17
2 19

One of sydney's best climbs. A must do!!!

Now that the lookout has moved you are pretty safe from official eyes. Take your gear and rope down the evil fisherman's descent and no-one will notice.

The rock isn't fantastic and the most of the bolts are pretty dodgy (actually, all the useful ones have been replaced with stainless), but this adds to the ambience. The roof traverse on pitch two is amazing and offers ample reward for getting off the belay ledge (the crux).

Take a normal rack of draws + bolt plates. A single set of cams (up to BD 4) and a set of wires might ease the mind (as well as offering better protection than some of the bolts). Trad belay required (cams useful) at top of pitch 2.

Start: Start on first ledge above the rocks and scrub at the base of the cliff. From the sea, climb up the first ladder on the fishermans descent and walk left about 30m (or don't descend all the way down). The climb starts just across the 'nasty step-across', below the obviuous line of bolts and the massive roof up high.

  1. 20m (17) Move up and R over ledge past bolts, up corner (part of The Bolt Ladde)r then left to obvious V corner. 'Grovel' up this and then traverse left to belay ledge (2 BR - at least one of which is newish).

  2. 20m (17) A very hard mantle/high reachy move off the belay ledge (the 1st move is really 19, many seconds fall from here. Make sure have and can use prusic knots) leads to pleasant, steep climbing. Traverse out through the massive roof on good jugs to the final headwall. Beware of the final mantle. 2 BB over top has been chopped—trad belay now required.

FA: Mike Law, 1978

A line of fourty-something bolts, most of which look like blobs of rust. Apparently there are three newish stainless bolts on the crux though...

Start: Start as for 'The Fear'.

  1. 10m (16) Start as for 'The Fear', but continue straight up to a large belay ledge rather than than traversing left into the corner.

  2. 25m (20) Start up coner, past hardish moves before shifting left onto the arete. Follow the left trending roof/corner. The line of manky bolts and rust streaks leads the way.


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