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Approach

From Wakehurst Parkway, go to the East end of the fence, and climb over. Walk 10m or so along the flat, and following the rock line, before walking up hill to the crag.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Bloggs Eliminate Trad 10m

Tree to overhang and scoop!

Start: 28m left of the track.

2
4 Ready, Set, Go! Trad 8m

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

3
US 23 * Rob's Arete Unknown
4
22 PL/LD Sport 10m, 3

Good looking face but looks harder than 22.

Shared lower off with Flack.

Start: Start 2m L of Flack.

5
17 Flack Sport 10m, 3

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

6
18 Seedy Saturday Trad 8m

Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet.

7
18 Fowlgrowlla Trad 8m

Flakes.

Start: 2m right.

8

Start: 5m right again. Has bolts!

9
22 Apyla Sport 6m

Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete.

10
19 Areeba Sport 7m

Start: As for Apyla but straight up past an RB and rusty carrot.

11
13 Keg's Korner Trad 7m

Start: Corner!

12
18 Bedrock Trad 7m

Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts.

13
21 Lido Man Sport 12m, 4

Straight up over bulge and up seam.

Start: 1m left of Jammin' Measles

FA: Daniel Webster, Dale Tweedie

14
17 Jammin' Measles Trad 10m

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

15
20 Unfair Dismissal Sport 12m, 3

Step right and up through scoop and wall to double U bolt rap anchor. Fixed sling and 3RBs en route (take care clipping the 3rd RB).

Start: Start: As for JM.

FA: Dale Tweedie, Daniel Webster

16
24 Ms Wilkins Sport 15m

A funky crux, all U bolts now

Start: 15m right of JM.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

17
23 ** Technorabble Sport 15m

Obvious. Follow bolts!

Start: 2m right of previous, 4m left of corner.

18
20 * Technorabble Variant Sport 15m

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right above the FH, clip it at full stretch to your left then go straight up.

19

Start: Corner.

20
26 ** Big Tick Sport 15m, 4

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

21
24 ** Image Intensifier Sport 15m, 5

Start: To the right and below Big Tick.

FA: Mikl

22
24 ** Slap and Tickle Sport 15m, 4

Up and right, right to arete and up.

Start: As for Image Intensifier.

FA: Mikl

23
22 * Pickaxe Sport 15m

Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle.

FA: Mikl

24
23 * Relax Sport 15m

Start: Right of Pickaxe.

FA: Mikl

25
23 * Smilax Sport 15m

Start: As for FHP (corner) then left and over lip and up.

26
19 FHP Trad 10m

Start: Corner/Crack.

27
25 Self Saucing Sandbag Sport 15m

Mmmn!

Start: 2m left of Tilt. Weird Ring Bolts - looks like someones being shopping at Bunnings!

FA: Giles Bradbury

28
22 *** Tilt Sport 15m

One of the best routes in Sydney! New bolts.

Start: Short wall 10m right of FHP.

29
28 * BRT Trad 15m
30
26 *** Full Tilt Sport 15m

Do this!

Start: 2m right of Tilt.

31

Start: Right of FT.

32
24 Dancing on Ceilings Sport 12m

Start: As for W&TS then right into SP.

33

Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt.

34
21 ** Septic Penguins Sport 12m, 5

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Now with a new rap anchor at the top.

FA: Mikl

35

Start: Bulging crack 1m right of Septic Penguins and straight up past hangers. Keep going up the crack and you get Crack Man Fever.

36
21 Crack Man Fever Trad 16m

Start: As for The Old Man of Heave then step right and up final crack.

FA: Mikl

37
22 ** Pat the Pig Sport 15m