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Description

As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.

Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.

Climate / Conditions

The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.

The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present. Watch out for leeches.

The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)

Approach

The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab.

FA: Mikl, 1980

Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

FA: Mike Law, 1980

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

FA: Craig Dungey, 2001

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

FA: Dale Tweedie & Chris Yeomans, 2004

Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam.

Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Gayle Matus, 2002

As this climb is a rising traverse crossing most of the routes on the main slab it is best attempted on quiet days! It is a pleasant and longish girdle traverse of the main slab

Start at the foot of Into The Void.

Climb Into The Void to bolt 2. Traverse right to the third fixed hanger on Manic, traverse right to Ag Science bolt 3.

Cross The Appliance of Domestic Science at the chicken head, move down slightly and reach the third bolt on Technical Short Talk, traverse right again and clip bolt 3 on Kicks.

Climb up to the top of Kicks and lower off the Kicks double ring bolts

During the lower off unclip last quick draw on Kicks to make life much more pleasant for the second(!)

FA: Michael Combley & Kate Baecher, 2013

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots.

FA: Mikl, 1980

Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up.

FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton & Nicole Dombrain, 1999

4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void.

FA: Mikl, 1980

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh & Nicole Dombrain, 2001

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection.

Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam.

Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height.

Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

FA: Michael Combley & James Carpenter, 2012

Another traversing exercise for quiet days Start as for either Ag Science or Appliance of DS. Clip the first carrot of Ag Science. Move a meter left and clip the ring bolt. Try to traverse left to good holds, fall off and grab the good holds (someone really tall will probably clean this move on a day when the rubber grips) Traverse left across Into The Void heading to the finish of Frantic. Clip the last 3 rb’s of Frantic and lower off

FA: Michael Combley, Kate Baecher & Andrew Rigden, 2013

Start is marked TST.

Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

1m right of TST. Up the wall past the hole then a delicate finish past the final bolt. Originally graded 20. Use the bolts for Taranesque.

FA: Mikl Law, 1980

1m right of Kicks. Delicate smear or desperate move past first BR. Straight up past 3 BRs to DRB. It is likely that this climb partially or fully overlaps Kicks.

FA: Jeff Boyton, 2011

Start is marked CO.

Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face (caution with drag), or tree anchor.

FA: Craig Martin & John Davis, 1982

The next two routes start on the upper tier just above 'Common Origin'.

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs.

A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

FA: Mikl, 1980

Start as for Wimples.

Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1998

Back to Ground Level

3m R of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.

2m R of CS, just R of crack. Up crack to break, then trend R past BR.

4m R of TPI. Up crack, L past old BR.

The following five climbs start on the block directly below Common Origin.

Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet

Between A and Quick Fang Down The Parkway. Start on nice right hand pocket and move up to left hand side pull. Crux move is here then continue straight up to anchors for 'A'

Set by Phillip Booth

4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A'

FA: Chris Yeomans & Duane Maxwell, 2003

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A'

FA: Mike Law, 1980

8m right of Trickles. Pleasant right arete of the block.

FA: Craig Martin & Russ Davis, 1992

The following climbs start back up at the very right hand end of the slab.

Thin slab to juggy overhang.

3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above.

FA: Mikl, 1980

3m R of Lunatic. Follow the slab up and over a small roof finishing up obvious flake and R edge of blunt arete.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

The corner crack at the far R end of the main slab.

FA: Craig Martin (solo), 1984

2m R of CM. Up overhanging nose to lower offs.

FA: Craig Martin & SID, 1984

Start marked '20'.

Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

Start 2m right of C.

Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings.

Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up.

The first crack 5m right of the cave.

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

Thin crack 10m right of Sweet Mercury. Up past a rusty piton.

Lower offs.

FA: Craig Martin & SID, 1984

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