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Description

As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.

Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.

Climate / Conditions

The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.

The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present.

The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)

Getting There

The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Son of a Bad Man Sport 12m, 4

Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

2
23 * Hampsters Sport 15m, 3

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab.

FA: Mikl, 1980

3

Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

4
22 Kiosks Sport 12m, 3

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

FA: Mike Law, 1980

5
22 * Show us your ticks Sport 10m, 3

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

FA: Craig Dungey, 2001

6
23 * Elmo Needs Some Air Mixed 12m, 1

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

FA: Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans, 2004

7
23 Iron Chef Sport 13m, 5

Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam.

Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

8
21 Frantic Sport 15m, 4

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus, 2002

9
17 * S.I.A.N. Sport 25m, 6

As this climb is a rising traverse crossing most of the routes on the main slab it is best attempted on quiet days! It is a pleasant and longish girdle traverse of the main slab

Start at the foot of Into The Void.

Climb Into The Void to bolt 2. Traverse right to the third fixed hanger on Manic, traverse right to Ag Science bolt 3.

Cross The Appliance of Domestic Science at the chicken head, move down slightly and reach the third bolt on Technical Short Talk, traverse right again and clip bolt 3 on Kicks.

Climb up to the top of Kicks and lower off the Kicks double ring bolts

During the lower off unclip last quick draw on Kicks to make life much more pleasant for the second(!)

FFA: Michael Combley and Kate Baecher, 2013

FA: Michael Combley and Kate Baecher, 2013

10
19 * Into the Void Sport 20m, 4

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots.

FA: Mikl, 1980

11
16 Mum's the Word Trad 10m

Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up.

FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain, 1999

12

4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void.

FA: Mikl, 1980

13
18 * Manic Sport 17m, 4

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain, 2001

14
16 Ag Science Sport 18m, 4

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

15

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection.

Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam.

Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height.

Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

FA: Michael Combley, James Carpenter, 2012

16
21 ** Mental as Anything Sport 25m, 6

Another traversing exercise for quiet days Start as for either Ag Science or Appliance of DS. Clip the first carrot of Ag Science. Move a meter left and clip the ring bolt. Try to traverse left to good holds, fall off and grab the good holds (someone really tall will probably clean this move on a day when the rubber grips) Traverse left across Into The Void heading to the finish of Frantic. Clip the last 3 rb’s of Frantic and lower off

FA: Michael Combley, Kate Baecher, Andrew Rigden, 2013

17
18 Technical Short Talk Sport 16m, 3

Start is marked TST.

Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

18
20 Kicks Sport 15m
19
20 Taranesque Sport 12m, 3
20
16 Common Origin Mixed 15m, 2

Start is marked CO.

Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag.

FA: Craig Martin, John Davis, 1982

21
24 Wimples Sport 10m, 3

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs.

A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

FA: Mikl, 1980

22
21 X * Dimples Sport 15m

Start as for Wimples.

Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1998

23
17 Common Sense Mixed 12m, 2

Marked HTS. 3m right of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.

24
15 TPI Mixed 10m, 2
25
14 Question Marks Unknown 7m
26
18 A Sport 10m, 4

Down below 'Common Origin' Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet

27

4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A'

FA: Chris Yeomans & Duane Maxwell, 2003

28
21 Trickles Sport 10m, 4

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A'

FA: Mike Law, 1980

29
9 X Communal Nose Trad 20m

8m right of Trickles. Pleasant right arete of the block.

FA: Craig Martin, Russ Davis, 1992

30
18 * Lunatic Sport 19m, 7

Thin slab to juggy overhang. 7 RBs.

31
24 * Fat, Sallow and Drunk Sport 20m, 5

3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above.

FA: Mikl, 1980

32
18 * Muscoviet Mosquito Sport 15m

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

33
34
18 Born Under Lunges Sport 12m
35
21 B Sport 18m, 7

Start marked '20'.

Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

36
18 ** C Sport 8m

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

37
20 Unfair Dismissal Sport 15m

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

38
24 * Surfboard Sport 15m, 4

Start 2m right of C.

Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings.

Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up.

39
15 Sweet Mercury Trad 12m

The first crack 5m right of the cave.

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

40
17 * Shivering Jemmy Trad 20m

Thin crack 10m right of Sweet Mercury.

Lower offs.

FA: Craig Martin, SID, 1984