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Table of contents

1. Slabs 40 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.259174, -33.714044

Description:

As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.

Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.

Climate / Conditions

The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.

The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present.

The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)

Getting There

The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Son of a Bad Man

Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

24Sport 12m, 4
2 * Hampsters

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab.

FA: Mikl, 1980

23Sport 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Some Girls Wander By Mistake

Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

22Sport 14m, 4
4 Kiosks

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

FA: Mike Law, 1980

22Sport 12m, 3
5 * Show us your ticks

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

FA: Craig Dungey, 2001

22Sport 10m, 3
6 * Elmo Needs Some Air

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

FA: Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans, 2004

23Mixed 12m, 1
7 Iron Chef

Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam.

Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

23Sport 13m, 5
8 Frantic

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus, 2002

21Sport 15m, 4
9 * S.I.A.N.

As this climb is a rising traverse crossing most of the routes on the main slab it is best attempted on quiet days! It is a pleasant and longish girdle traverse of the main slab

Start at the foot of Into The Void.

Climb Into The Void to bolt 2. Traverse right to the third fixed hanger on Manic, traverse right to Ag Science bolt 3.

Cross The Appliance of Domestic Science at the chicken head, move down slightly and reach the third bolt on Technical Short Talk, traverse right again and clip bolt 3 on Kicks.

Climb up to the top of Kicks and lower off the Kicks double ring bolts

During the lower off unclip last quick draw on Kicks to make life much more pleasant for the second(!)

FFA: Michael Combley and Kate Baecher, 2013

FA: Michael Combley and Kate Baecher, 2013

17Sport 25m, 6
10 * Into the Void

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots.

FA: Mikl, 1980

19Sport 20m, 4
11 Mum's the Word

Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up.

FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain, 1999

16Trad 10m
12 For the Good of the Claws

4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Manic

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain, 2001

18Sport 17m, 4
14 Ag Science

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

16Sport 18m, 4
15 * The Appliance of Domestic Science

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection.

Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam.

Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height.

Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

FA: Michael Combley, James Carpenter, 2012

17Sport 15m, 4
16 ** Mental as Anything

Another traversing exercise for quiet days Start as for either Ag Science or Appliance of DS. Clip the first carrot of Ag Science. Move a meter left and clip the ring bolt. Try to traverse left to good holds, fall off and grab the good holds (someone really tall will probably clean this move on a day when the rubber grips) Traverse left across Into The Void heading to the finish of Frantic. Clip the last 3 rb’s of Frantic and lower off

FA: Michael Combley, Kate Baecher, Andrew Rigden, 2013

21Sport 25m, 6
17 Technical Short Talk

Start is marked TST.

Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

18Sport 16m, 3
18 Kicks 20Sport 15m
19 Taranesque 20Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Common Origin

Start is marked CO.

Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag.

FA: Craig Martin, John Davis, 1982

16Mixed 15m, 2
21 Wimples

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs.

A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24Sport 10m, 3
22 * Dimples

Start as for Wimples.

Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1998

21 XSport 15m
23 Common Sense

Marked HTS. 3m right of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.

17Mixed 12m, 2
24 TPI 15Unknown 10m
25 Question Marks 14Unknown 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 A

Down below 'Common Origin' Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet

18Sport 10m, 4
27 * Quick fang down the parkway

4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A'

FA: Chris Yeomans & Duane Maxwell, 2003

18Sport 10m, 4
28 Trickles

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A'

FA: Mike Law, 1980

21Sport 10m, 4
29 Communal Nose

8m right of Trickles. Pleasant right arete of the block.

FA: Craig Martin, Russ Davis, 1992

9 XTrad 20m
30 * Lunatic

Thin slab to juggy overhang. 7 RBs.

18Sport 19m, 7
31 * Fat, Sallow and Drunk

3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24Sport 20m, 5
32 * Muscoviet Mosquito

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

18Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 Colonial Mentality 8Trad 10m
34 Born Under Lunges 18Sport 12m
35 B

Start marked '20'.

Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

21Sport 18m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 ** C

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

18Sport 8m
37 Unfair Dismissal

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

20Sport 15m
38 * Surfboard

Start 2m right of C.

Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings.

Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up.

24Sport 15m, 4
39 Sweet Mercury

The first crack 5m right of the cave.

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

15Trad 12m
40 * Shivering Jemmy

Thin crack 10m right of Sweet Mercury.

Lower offs.

FA: Craig Martin, SID, 1984

17Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Colonial Mentality Trad 10m
9 Communal Nose Trad 20m
14 Question Marks Unknown 7m
15 Sweet Mercury Trad 12m
TPI Unknown 10m
16 Ag Science Sport 18m, 4
Common Origin Mixed 15m, 2
Mum's the Word Trad 10m
17 Common Sense Mixed 12m, 2
* S.I.A.N. Sport 25m, 6
* Shivering Jemmy Trad 20m
* The Appliance of Domestic Science Sport 15m, 4
18 A Sport 10m, 4
Born Under Lunges Sport 12m
** C Sport 8m
* Lunatic Sport 19m, 7
* Manic Sport 17m, 4
* Muscoviet Mosquito Sport 15m
* Quick fang down the parkway Sport 10m, 4
Technical Short Talk Sport 16m, 3
19 * Into the Void Sport 20m, 4
20 Kicks Sport 15m
Taranesque Sport 12m, 3
Unfair Dismissal Sport 15m
21 B Sport 18m, 7
* Dimples Sport 15m
Frantic Sport 15m, 4
** Mental as Anything Sport 25m, 6
Trickles Sport 10m, 4
22 Kiosks Sport 12m, 3
* Show us your ticks Sport 10m, 3
Some Girls Wander By Mistake Sport 14m, 4
23 * Elmo Needs Some Air Mixed 12m, 1
* Hampsters Sport 15m, 3
Iron Chef Sport 13m, 5
24 * Fat, Sallow and Drunk Sport 20m, 5
For the Good of the Claws Sport 20m
* Son of a Bad Man Sport 12m, 4
* Surfboard Sport 15m, 4
Wimples Sport 10m, 3