Topo #11216

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 * Son of a Bad Man

Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag.

24 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
2 * Hampsters

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab.

23 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #1276

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 Some Girls Wander By Mistake

Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket.

22 Sport 14m, 4 Unlink route
4 Kiosks

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

22 Sport 12m, 3 Unlink route
5 * Show us your ticks

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

22 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
6 * Elmo Needs Some Air

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

23 Mixed 12m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #2974

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Route Grade Popularity Style
7 Iron Chef

Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam. Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings.

23 Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
8 Frantic

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger.

21 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route
10 * Into the Void

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots.

19 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
12 For the Good of the Claws

4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void.

24 Sport 20m Unlink route
13 * Manic

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

18 Sport 17m, 4 Unlink route
14 Ag Science

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
15 The Appliance of Domestic Science

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection. Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam. Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height. Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

17 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #2975

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 * Manic

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

18 Sport 17m, 4 Unlink route
14 Ag Science

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

16 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
17 * Technical Short Talk

Start is marked TST. Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

18 Sport 16m, 3 Unlink route
18 Kicks

1m right of TST. Up the wall past the hole then a delicate finish past the final bolt. Originally graded 20. Use the bolts for Taranesque.

18 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
19 Taranesque

1m right of Kicks. Delicate smear or desperate move past first BR. Straight up past 3 BRs to DRB. It is likely that this climb partially or fully overlaps Kicks.

20 Sport 12m, 3 Unlink route
20 Common Origin

Start is marked CO. Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag.

16 Mixed 15m, 2 Unlink route
21 Wimples

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs. A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

24 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
22 * Dimples

Start as for Wimples. Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential.

21 X Sport 15m Unlink route
23 Common Sense

3m R of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.

17 Mixed 12m, 2 Unlink route
15 The Appliance of Domestic Science

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection. Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam. Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height. Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

17 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #434

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Route Grade Popularity Style
17 * Technical Short Talk

Start is marked TST. Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

18 Sport 16m, 3 Unlink route
18 Kicks

1m right of TST. Up the wall past the hole then a delicate finish past the final bolt. Originally graded 20. Use the bolts for Taranesque.

18 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
19 Taranesque

1m right of Kicks. Delicate smear or desperate move past first BR. Straight up past 3 BRs to DRB. It is likely that this climb partially or fully overlaps Kicks.

20 Sport 12m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #437

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Route Grade Popularity Style
21 Wimples

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs. A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

24 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
20 Common Origin

Start is marked CO. Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag.

16 Mixed 15m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #431

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Route Grade Popularity Style
26 A

Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet

18 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
28 Quick fang down the parkway

4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A'

18 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
29 Trickles

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A'

21 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
27 So Familiar

Between A and Quick Fang Down The Parkway. Start on nice right hand pocket and move up to left hand side pull. Crux move is here then continue straight up to anchors for 'A'

19 Top rope 10m Unlink route

Topo #11215

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Route Grade Popularity Style
31 * Lunatic

Thin slab to juggy overhang.

18 Sport 19m, 5 Unlink route
32 * Fat, Sallow and Drunk

3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above.

24 Sport 20m, 5 Unlink route
33 * Muscoviet Mosquito

3m R of Lunatic. Follow the slab up and over a small roof finishing up obvious flake and R edge of blunt arete.

18 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #11213

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Route Grade Popularity Style
34 Colonial Mentality

The corner crack at the far R end of the main slab.

8 Trad 10m Unlink route
35 Born Under Lunges

2m R of CM. Up overhanging nose to lower offs.

18 Sport 12m, 2 Unlink route
36 B

Start marked '20'. Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

21 Sport 18m, 7 Unlink route
37 ** C

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

18 Sport 8m Unlink route
38 * Unfair Dismissal

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

20 Sport 15m Unlink route

Topo #11214

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Route Grade Popularity Style
34 Colonial Mentality

The corner crack at the far R end of the main slab.

8 Trad 10m Unlink route
35 Born Under Lunges

2m R of CM. Up overhanging nose to lower offs.

18 Sport 12m, 2 Unlink route
36 B

Start marked '20'. Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

21 Sport 18m, 7 Unlink route
37 ** C

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

18 Sport 8m Unlink route
38 * Unfair Dismissal

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

20 Sport 15m Unlink route
39 * Surfboard

Start 2m right of C. Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings. Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up.

24 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route

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