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Description

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand at Palm Beach with some good problems. 'Excellent' for a swim and warm down after a day at Barrenjoey.

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Approach

Continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 The Hole Boulder

Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh.

Start: East face of southern boulder.

2

East side of the South Boulder.

Some nice pockets on the white streak. Straight up

3
V0 * The Juggy Arete Boulder

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

4

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

5

The north face of the south boulder. A sit start on the jugs in the roof and up using the big hole

6

Traverse the drill holes staying below the break starting from the north end. Fun and Pumpy

7
V3 *** The Crack Boulder

The slightly overhanging, thin crack/seam. Great climbing.

Start: South face of northern boulder.

8
V7 Crimp City Boulder

Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go.

The Southern face of the North Boulder

9
V1 Mr. Mantle Boulder

South West edge of the Northern Boulder

Sit start on the southern edge. Mantle the Ledge and then up!

10
V1 The Ledge Boulder

Get yourself onto that Ledge and then commit.

North Boulder; West side of the South Western arete.

11
V1 Postman Pat Boulder

East side of the North Boulder.

Start at the letterbox slot and move up and right to the crack

12
V1 * The Flake Boulder

Up to the flake and layback.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

13

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

14

Up using the thin seam which turns left up the top.

Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder

15
V1 The Open Seam Boulder

East side of the North Boulder.

Up the open seam

16
V0 The Easy Slab Boulder

Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots.

Start: North-east face of the north boulder.

17
V1 Lefty Loosey Boulder

The Left of the North Face, Just right of the Arete. Straight up, good fun!

18
V0+ * The North Face Boulder

Fun crimpy face.

Start: North face of the north boulder

19
V1 Righty Tighty Boulder

The very right of the North face. Undercling to start and up the crimps!

20
V2 The North Corner Boulder

Starting on the western side using the jugs. Then work your way up using the cornery goodness

21

However you do it its a great big move, start low at the big jug and get to the top. West side of the North Boulder

22
V2 Rising Traverse Boulder

1m right of the jug, up diagonally finishing at the top of 'The Way Out'. Great Problem

23
V2 The Way Out Boulder

On the western side of the North boulder close to the bench, start low by the dumb white arrow. Hard move into a side pull