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If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Contact us if you have any issues.

Description

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

Approach

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

© (christo)

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Routes

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Fairly well protected, fun face climbing with an arete to finish. Lots of horizontals for gear, so take lots of cams. Wires are also handy. The rock is good by sea cliffs standards but still beware of flexing flakes and other crumbling holds.

Start: If you rap in start where the rope deposits you. If you walk along the rocks at the base, it is the only South east facing wall that looks like it won't fall down if you touch it. A little way past (south) the stone wall the pokes over the cliff top.

FA: Greg Child