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Description

A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Access issues

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block.

Ethic

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Southwest Crag
 Trad,  Sport and other styles
86
2,867
14m
28
7
25
13m
37
58
13m

Open trips

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