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A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

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Access issues

Since the crag is directly above a track used by hundreds of tourists bucketlisting Barrenjoey, it might be best to leave this crag and its rusted bolt ladder in the history books.

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To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, take the main lighthouse track then turn right at the signposted "Smugglers Track". A short walk leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff

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Mixed - trad and rusty carrots.

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Grade Route

Up the manky old bolt ladder.

No protection after the ledge.

Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney.

Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Good jams and protection.

Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete.

Start: Right of PP.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

Start on ledge right of OC.

Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing.

FA: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Offwidth right of CC

Ramp right of SE.


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