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Description

A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, head right and onto the lighthouse track. About 4m after the signpost for the old Customs House site, a track heads right off the track and leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
M1 A Aid 15m

Up the manky old bolt ladder.

2
16 R Remaining Shame Trad 20m

No protection after the ledge.

Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

3
12 Thresher's Flail Trad 18m

Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney.

Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

4
15 Pugnatious Puke Trad 14m

Good jams and protection.

Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

5
12 Oedipus Complex Trad 10m

Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete.

Start: Right of PP.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

6
9 Cockroach Crack Trad 8m

Start on ledge right of OC.

Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing.

FA: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery, Craig B. Martin, 1982

7
12 Septic Enigma Boulder 4m

Offwidth right of CC

8
12 Half Pipe Boulder 4m

Ramp right of SE.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.