Site navigation

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Alex Rogers

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Customs House Rocks 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Boulder and Aid
Description:© (secretary)

A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

Access Issues: inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, head right and onto the lighthouse track. About 4m after the signpost for the old Customs House site, a track heads right off the track and leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff

Ethic: inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 A

Up the manky old bolt ladder.

M1
Aid 15m
2 Remaining Shame

No protection after the ledge.

Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

16 R
Trad 20m
3 Thresher's Flail

Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney.

Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

12
Trad 18m
4 Pugnatious Puke

Good jams and protection.

Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

15
Trad 14m
5 Oedipus Complex

Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete.

Start: Right of PP.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

12
Trad 10m
6 Cockroach Crack

Start on ledge right of OC.

Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing.

FA: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery, Craig B. Martin, 1982

9
Trad 8m
7 Septic Enigma

Offwidth right of CC

12
Boulder 4m
8 Half Pipe

Ramp right of SE.

12
Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
9 Cockroach Crack Trad 8m
12 Half Pipe Boulder 4m
Oedipus Complex Trad 10m
Septic Enigma Boulder 4m
Thresher's Flail Trad 18m
15 Pugnatious Puke Trad 14m
16 Remaining Shame Trad 20m
M1 A Aid 15m