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Summary

Giant yellow corner shining in a sea of erosion.

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Description

A small patch of good to excellent rock among the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).

Unfortunately fixed protection and perhaps belays have rotted millenia ago, making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below a wall of higher choss, and the trees above are all burnt.

2018 inspection revealed a fair stainless carrot at the base with the possibility of more above. Since the only way to check the belay is to be there, let the climber beware.

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Access issues

The perimeter access track ranges from a good footpath to rock scrambling, under some of the most heavily eroded cliffs in the region. Beware falling rocks and high tides.

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Approach

The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag, and continue past it around the north face of the headland for about half an hour on the fisherman's track or scrambling over rocks.

Ignore endless choss until you encounter an enormous orange open book corner of excellent high-quartz rock glistening in the sunlight, near a large sloping boulder.

You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).

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Ethic

Bold!

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History

View historical timeline

The bold pioneers of this Corner (singular) no doubt named it for its place in a sea of extraordinary Disordered rock.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Topo notional, routes not confirmed.

7m right of E.

Undercut and balancy to horizontal. Traverse right to arete and head straight up to manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1985

2m right of E.

Up short crack and past breaks to obvious traverse line. Hard moves lead diagonally right through poorer rock (jugs) to arete. Up to ledge with manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1985

1.5m right of E.

Desperate moves up thin cracks past breaks. At third break move up and right to main break on wall. Move left to crack and up to ledge (manky BBs). Rap off.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Craig B. Martin, 1986

Direct finish for SOTLV.

Up SOTLV to traverse line and blast straight up past 2 manky BRs to large break. Head diagonally right to ledge then downclimb arete for 8m to manky BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Giles Bradbury, 1986

The obvious book corner in the middle of the good rock.

Up the corner to manky BBs. Rap off. Protection looks a bit dubious (the corner looks fused).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Just left of E.

Up the wall (cams in breaks) to cave (manky BB). Rap off or traverse left and scramble down (scary!).

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1983

Activity

Check out what is happening in Disorder Corners.