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Description

A small patch of good to excellent rock in amongst the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).

Unfortunately all of the fixed protection rotted millenia ago making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below the top of the cliff (the cliff is choss higher up).

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Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag and continue on past it and around the end of the headland. Ignore endless choss until you encounter a nice orange corner in excellent rock, near a large sloping boulder. You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).

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Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Bluegrass Trad 15m

7m right of E.

Undercut and balancy to horizontal. Traverse right to arete and head straight up to manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985

2

1.5m right of E.

Desperate moves up thin cracks past breaks. At third break move up and right to main break on wall. Move left to crack and up to ledge (manky BBs). Rap off.

FA: Giles Bradbury, Craig B. Martin, 1986

3

2m right of E.

Up short crack and past breaks to obvious traverse line. Hard moves lead diagonally right through poorer rock (jugs) to arete. Up to ledge with manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985

4
22 ** Conspiracy of Hope Trad 15m

Direct finish for SOTLV.

Up SOTLV to traverse line and blast straight up past 2 manky BRs to large break. Head diagonally right to ledge then downclimb arete for 8m to manky BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Giles Bradbury, 1986

5
14 * Epic Trad 15m

The obvious book corner in the middle of the good rock.

Up the corner to manky BBs. Rap off. Protection looks a bit dubious (the corner looks fused).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

6
18 * Painless Destiny Trad 15m

Just left of E.

Up the wall (cams in breaks) to cave (manky BB). Rap off or traverse left and scramble down (scary!).

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.