Disorder Corners All Trad climbing6 routes in crag
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A small patch of good to excellent rock among the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).
Unfortunately fixed protection and perhaps belays have rotted millenia ago, making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below a wall of higher choss, and the trees above are all burnt.
2018 inspection revealed a fair stainless carrot at the base with the possibility of more above. Since the only way to check the belay is to be there, let the climber beware.© (secretary)
The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag, and continue past it around the north face of the headland for about half an hour on the fisherman's track or scrambling over rocks.
Ignore endless choss until you encounter an enormous orange open book corner of excellent high-quartz rock glistening in the sunlight, near a large sloping boulder.
You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).© (secretary)
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