Disorder Corners All Trad climbing6 routes in crag
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A small patch of good to excellent rock in amongst the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).
Unfortunately all of the fixed protection rotted millenia ago making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below the top of the cliff (the cliff is choss higher up).© (secretary)
Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey
There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.
The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag and continue on past it and around the end of the headland. Ignore endless choss until you encounter a nice orange corner in excellent rock, near a large sloping boulder. You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).© (secretary)
Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey
The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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