A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kyle Dunsire
Alex Rogers
Adrian Kladnig
Campbell Gome
Lee McDougall
Phil Ward
Will Monks
Cameron Shorter
James
Rod Smith
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Northern Beaches
446 in Crag
-
1.1.
North Head 38 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Western End 12 in Area
- 1.1.2. Main Area 23 in Area
- 1.1.3. Fairy Bower Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Harbourside 2 in Crag
- 1.2. Terrey Hills 37 in Area
- 1.3. Fosscrag 4 in Crag
-
1.4.
Narrabeen 90 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Pootang Crag 3 in Area
- 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side 37 in Area
- 1.4.3. Slabs 38 in Area
- 1.4.4. The Den 10 in Area
- 1.4.5. Oxford Falls 2 in Crag
- 1.5. Elanora Heights 21 in Area
- 1.6. Whale Beach 13 in Area
-
1.7.
Barrenjoey 190 in Crag
- 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall 5 in Crag
- 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks 8 in Crag
- 1.7.3. Southwest 86 in Crag
- 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock 7 in Crag
- 1.7.5. Stranglers Corner 4 in Crag
- 1.7.6. North Palm Beach 37 in Crag
- 1.7.7. Disorder Corners 6 in Crag
-
1.7.8.
Palm Beach Boulders 37 in Field
- 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder 24 in Boulder
- 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder 13 in Boulder
-
1.8.
Parriwi Road Mosman 3 in Area
- 1.8.1. The Slab 1 in Area
- 1.8.2. Top Side Boulders 1 in Area
- 1.9. Freshwater Beach 3 in Area
- 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders 8 in Area
-
1.11.
Northern Beaches Rockhouse 39 in Gym
- 1.11.1. Climbing routes 23 in Area
- 1.11.2. Bouldering problems 16 in Area
-
1.1.
North Head 38 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Northern Beaches 446 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,Sport
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.287204, -33.703897
1.1. North Head 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,?
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.299583, -33.816273
- Description:© (christo)
-
On the cliffs below the lookouts at the very end of 'North Head'.
- Approach:© (christo)
-
To get to the top of the Fear and the Bolt Ladder, walk ~10 m towards the ocean from the western lookout. Go down a small set of stairs and then jump the fence when the big concrete and rock pad (the old lookout) appears on the right. Both routes top out below the far side of this. The fisherman's descent is ~50 m further to the east and can clearly be seen from the top of the Fear.
1.1.1. Western End 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
- Description:
-
Strangely enough, the Western End is west of the lookout. From the lookout follow a faint clifftop track to the west until you find a manky fisherman's descent.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Start at the far right hand end of the ledge. Move right for about 12m above the roof to the arete. Follow the twin seams. FA: Tom Williams, | 20 | 26m | |||
| 2 | Scylla | 17 | 20m | |||
| 3 | Prophylactic Crack | 20 | 15m | |||
| 4 | Cruel Fin | 20 | 17m | |||
| 5 | Destroy All Andrews | 13 | 15m | |||
| 6 |
| 17 | 15m | |||
| 7 | Surges | 16 | 12m | |||
| 8 | Aquatracks | 16 | 12m | |||
| 9 | Can't Spell Caviar | 18 | 12m | |||
| 10 | Darling Debi | 19 | 14m | |||
| 11 | Newtown Night's Transfiguration | 17 | 15m | |||
| 12 |
| 20 | 30m | |||
1.1.2. Main Area 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
?,Trad
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.300236, -33.822551
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 22 | 60m | |||
| 2 |
| 23 | 50m | |||
| 3 |
| 20 | 45m | |||
| 4 |
One of sydney's best climbs. A must do!!! The rock isn't fantastic and the most of the bolts are pretty dodgy, but this adds to the ambience. The roof traverse on pitch two is amazing and offers ample reward for getting off the belay ledge (the crux). Take a normal rack of draws + bolt plates. A single set of cams (up to BD 4) and a set of wires might ease the mind (as well as offering better protection than some of the bolts). Start: Start on first ledge above the rocks and scrub at the base of the cliff. From the sea, climb up the first ladder on the fishermans descent and walk left a little way. The climb starts just across the 'nasty step-across', below the obviuous line of bolts and the massive roof up high.
FA: Mike Law, 1989 | 17 R | 47m |
Caitlin Hurley 5 years agoPhil Davis 8 years ago
| ||
| 5 |
A line of fourty-something bolts, most of which look like blobs of rust. Apparently there are three newish stainless bolts on the crux though... Start: Start as for 'The Fear'.
| 20 R | 35m |
Tony Williams 17 years ago
| ||
| 6 | The Bolt Ladder Variant | 20 | 30m | |||
| 7 | The Bolt Ladder Direct Start | 21 | 35m | |||
| 8 |
| 23 | 60m | |||
| 9 | Sir Lawrence Whelk | 20 | 15m | |||
| 10 | Bumbly's Revenge | 21 | 15m | |||
| 11 | Turds on the Move | 20 | 12m | |||
| 12 | Drop Bears | 19 | 55m | |||
| 13 | Scrabble | 18 | 30m | |||
| 14 | Polluted Beaches | 19 | 15m | |||
| 15 | Like Rain | 21 | 18m | |||
| 16 |
| 19 | 25m | |||
| 17 |
| 15 | 50m |
Damien Haines 9 years agoBear 16 years ago
| ||
| 18 | Moments of Glory | 18 | 25m | |||
| 19 |
| 18 | 52m | |||
| 20 | No Morays | 19 | 40m | |||
| 21 |
| 17 | 45m | |||
| 22 | Ultramarine | 18 | 45m | |||
| 23 | Nastrand | 17 | 50m | |||
1.1.3. Fairy Bower Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
- All Trad
- Description:
-
On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.
It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.
- Approach:© (christo)
-
On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.
It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Fairly well protected, fun face climbing with an arete to finish. Lots of horizontals for gear, so take lots of cams. Wires are also handy. The rock is good by sea cliffs standards but still beware of flexing flakes and other crumbling holds. Start: If you rap in start where the rope deposits you. If you walk along the rocks at the base, it is the only South east facing wall that looks like it won't fall down if you touch it. A little way past (south) the stone wall the pokes over the cliff top. FA: Greg Child, | 19 | 40m | |||
1.1.4. Harbourside 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Lost at sea without a paddle
Start off the rock platform at low tide to the right of the sea cave. FA: Chris & Stu, 2000 | 20 | 10m | |||
| 2 |
War Wounds
Steep pumpy first pitch. Rambling chossy second pitch. As for Lost at Sea. P1. (15m, 20) Follow Lost at Sea but continue left to belay stance on the big diving board. Belay off cams in the roof. P2 (35m, 10) Follow the easiest line to the top of the wall. Fairly chossy and a little run-out but very easy. FA: Chris & Stu, 2000 | 20 | 15m | |||
1.2. Terrey Hills 37 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport,?
and Top Rope
Long/Lat: 151.232375, -33.685444
- Description:© (adb)
-
A pleasant crag with an easy 5 minute access. A good mix of routes. A bit noisy. Over 29 routes under 10m, mostly with rusty carrots. Faces South but gets a bit of sun late afternoon. Leeches when its wet.
- Approach:© (adb)
-
Park at the locked gate on the South side of Mona Vale Rd, 200m east of Kanangra Rd, Terry Hills. Follow the fire trail past a small brick building on the left. Walk straight ahead onto a walking track that veers left. This takes you to the West end of the crag. An easy walk down.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | C | ? | 5m | |||
| 2 | BTH | ? | 3m | |||
| 3 | S | 22 | 4m |
Donald Gibson 7 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
| 18 | 4m | |||
| 5 | MA | ?(S) | 3m | |||
| 6 | CS | ? | 4m | |||
| 7 |
| 19 | 6m |
Donald Gibson 7 years ago
| ||
| 8 | B | 16 | 10m | |||
| 9 | MM | ? | 10m | |||
| 10 | A | 6 | 12m | |||
| 11 | EC | ? | 10m | |||
| 12 |
Thin start. Heads up and right. 4 BRs. Start: Marked. | 20 | 12m , 4 |
Dave Paine 9 years ago
| ||
| 13 |
Diagonally left up the airy arete. 4 BR. Start: 10m right of FTH | 22 | 12m , 4 | |||
| 14 | RR | ?(S) | 10m | |||
| 15 |
| 25 | 10m | |||
| 16 | GT | ? | 8m | |||
| 17 |
BTU
Steep overhanging pocketed wall to sandy top with runnels. Start: Marked | ?(S) | 5m , 2 | |||
| 18 | PS | ? | 5m | |||
| 19 | D | ?(S) | 5m | |||
| 20 | GC | ? | 6m | |||
| 21 | E | ?(S) | 8m | |||
| 22 | F | ?(S) | 8m | |||
| 23 | SLC | ?(S) | 7m | |||
| 24 | SP | ?(S) | 10m | |||
| 25 | TC | ?(S) | 10m | |||
| 26 | G | ?(S) | 10m | |||
| 27 |
Agronomist
Up the thin overhanging wall to diagonal groove up high. 3 manky BR. Single manky BB. Needs more cleaning. Start: 4m right of 'Buxom' | 24 | 10m | |||
| 28 |
Pinch up the overhanging arete to slopers then into easier territory. 2 BRs Start: Start marked | 21 | 8m | |||
| 29 |
Good Times
Up the juggy wall and across the slab. Single BB Start: Marked | 15 | 8m | |||
| 30 |
Up the overhanging pocketed wall. 3 new FH. DBB Start: 5m right of BTU on same pocketed wall. | 22 | 9m , 3 | |||
| 31 |
Saffron Pelican
Tasty. Slightly overhanging start, to rounded edge and up. 2BR, DBB Start: Start marked, 15m right of F, 1m right of arete, on short east facing wall. | 22 | 10m , 3 | |||
| 32 |
FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia)
Easy overhanging pocketed start to very thin wall near top. 2 new FH. Single BB. Start: 2m right of E, before arete. | 25 | 9m | |||
| 33 |
Bonza
Up the pleasant crack Start: Corner crack | 16 | 10m | |||
| 34 |
Tangerine Canard
Up the vertical edges. 3 new BR's 2 old BRs. BB Start: 2m right of SP | 16 | 10m , 3 | |||
| 35 |
Dysphemism
No need to sugar coat it - hard. Up the overhanging pocketed wall to the thin diagonal crack in the blank wall. Two manky BR's well past their use-by. Start: Marked | 25 | 7m , 2 | |||
| 36 |
Buxom
Up the steep pocketed wall and over the rounded buxom arete. 2BR Start: Start marked, 3m right of SM | 22 | 10m | |||
| 37 |
Cravin Sarah
Up the pocketed wall. 2 SS BR. Double SS BB. Start: 100m Right (East) of TC at the highest part of the wall. | 16 | 10m | |||
1.3. Fosscrag 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 151.234777, -33.670217
- Description:
-
A small cliff. The track along the base is overgrown so it is obviously not popular.
- Approach:
-
From the junction of Mona Vale Road and McCarrs Creek Road head North for about 1.5km until you see the obvious cliffline on the right. Park in the small area on the right and follow a faint track up the gully separating the left and right clifflines. The four bolted routes are on the right.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Basket Case
5m left of Wringer at broken slab. FA: Craig Martin, Chuck, 1985 | 21 | 15m , 1 | |||
| 2 |
Wringer
5m left of Bikkies. FA: Craig Martin, Chuck, 1985 | 17 | 12m | |||
| 3 |
Bikkies
Up the obvious crack. FA: Chuck, Craig Martin, 1985 | 13 | 10m | |||
| 4 |
Up Bikkies for 3m then traverse right under roof. Up to roof and traverse left along break then up. FA: Craig Martin, SID, Chuck, 1985 | 19 | 15m , 1 | |||
1.4. Narrabeen 90 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport,Trad
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.254952, -33.716828
- Approach:© (mjw)
1.4.1. Pootang Crag 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport
Long/Lat: 151.253660, -33.720334
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Start: At left end of crag. Hard wall then through roof. FA: Jeffrey Crass, 1987 | 25 | 10m , 5 | |||
| 2 |
Start: 2m right of Caitlin Sam. Wall then through harder roof. FA: Leonard Coyne, 1987 | 26 | 10m , 4 | |||
| 3 |
Start: 4m right of ISCmW. Up and through roofs. FA: Leonard Coyne, 1987 | 27 | 10m , 4 | |||
1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side 37 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport,Trad
and ?
Long/Lat: 151.254890, -33.718151
- Approach:
-
From Wakehurst Parkway, go to the East end of the fence, and climb over. Walk 10m or so along the flat, and following the rock line, before walking up hill to the crag.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Bloggs Eliminate
Tree to overhang and scoop! Start: 28m left of the track. | 12 | 10m |
Damien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
| 2 |
Ready, Set, Go!
Corners. Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track. | 4 | 8m |
Matt Webster 8 years agoDamien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
| 3 |
| 23 | ||||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 4 |
PL/LD
Good looking face but looks harder than 22. Shared lower off with Flack. Start: Start 2m L of Flack. | 22 | 10m , 3 | |||||
| 5 |
Flack
Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled. FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 17 | 10m , 3 |
Vanessa Wills 4 months agoAdrian Kladnig 4 months ago
| ||||
| 6 |
Seedy Saturday
Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet. | 18 | 8m |
Damien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
| 7 |
Fowlgrowlla
Flakes. Start: 2m right. | 18 | 8m |
Damien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
| 8 |
Strange Like Norman
Start: 5m right again. Has bolts! | 21 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 9 |
Apyla
Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete. | 22 | 6m | |||||
| 10 |
Areeba
Start: As for Apyla but straight up past an RB and rusty carrot. | 19 | 7m | |||||
| 11 |
Keg's Korner
Start: Corner! | 13 | 7m | |||||
| 12 |
Bedrock
Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts. | 18 | 7m | |||||
| 13 |
Lido Man
Straight up over bulge and up seam. Start: 1m left of Jammin' Measles FA: Daniel Webster, Dale Tweedie, | 21 | 12m , 4 |
Sam May 4 months agoVanessa Wills 4 months ago
| ||||
| 14 |
Jammin' Measles
The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start. | 17 | 10m | |||||
| 15 |
Unfair Dismissal
Step right and up through scoop and wall to double U bolt rap anchor. Fixed sling and 3RBs en route (take care clipping the 3rd RB). Start: Start: As for JM. FA: Dale Tweedie, Daniel Webster, | 20 | 12m , 3 |
David O'Donnell 6 years agoLauren Chandler 7 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 16 |
Ms Wilkins
A funky crux, all U bolts now Start: 15m right of JM. FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 24 | 15m | |||||
| 17 |
Obvious. Follow bolts! Start: 2m right of previous, 4m left of corner. | 23 | 15m |
Damien Haines 9 years agoWill Monks 15 years ago
| ||||
| 18 |
As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right above the FH, clip it at full stretch to your left then go straight up. | 20 | 15m |
Neil Monteith 4 weeks agoHeath McCrossin 9 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 19 |
Worthless Cracklines
Start: Corner. | 18 | 15m | |||||
| 20 |
Classic pocket pulling, all U's Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts. FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 26 | 15m , 4 |
Heath McCrossin 9 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 21 |
Start: To the right and below Big Tick. FA: Mikl, | 24 | 15m , 5 | |||||
| 22 |
Up and right, right to arete and up. Start: As for Image Intensifier. FA: Mikl, | 24 | 15m , 4 |
Steve 14 years ago
| ||||
| 23 |
Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle. FA: Mikl, | 22 | 15m |
David O'Donnell 6 years ago
| ||||
| 24 |
Start: Right of Pickaxe. FA: Mikl, | 23 | 15m |
Chris Bentham 7 years agoLauren Chandler 7 years ago
| ||||
| 25 |
Start: As for FHP (corner) then left and over lip and up. | 23 | 15m | |||||
| 26 |
FHP
Start: Corner/Crack. | 19 | 10m |
Chris Yeomans 7 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 27 |
Self Saucing Sandbag
Mmmn! Start: 2m left of Tilt. Weird Ring Bolts - looks like someones being shopping at Bunnings! FA: Giles Bradbury, | 25 | 15m | |||||
| 28 |
One of the best routes in Sydney! New bolts. Start: Short wall 10m right of FHP. | 22 | 15m |
Vanessa Wills 4 months agoLee McDougall 7 months ago
| ||||
| 29 |
| 28 | 15m | |||||
| 30 |
Do this! Start: 2m right of Tilt. | 26 | 15m |
JJ 8 years agoSteve 17 years ago
| ||||
| 31 |
Start: Right of FT. | 25 | 12m | |||||
| 32 |
Dancing on Ceilings
Start: As for W&TS then right into SP. | 24 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 33 |
Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt. | 21 | 15m , 6 |
JJ 8 years ago
| ||||
| 34 |
Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Rap off the dead tree at top or lower off the dodgy sling. Could do with lower offs. FA: Mikl, | 21 | 12m , 5 |
Neil Monteith 4 weeks agoSam May 4 months ago
| ||||
| 35 |
Start: Bulging crack 1m right of Septic Penguins and straight up past hangers. Keep going up the crack and you get Crack Man Fever. | 24 | 20m | |||||
| 36 |
Crack Man Fever
Start: As for The Old Man of Heave then step right and up final crack. FA: Mikl, | 21 | 16m | |||||
| 37 |
| 22 | 15m | |||||
1.4.3. Slabs 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport,Trad
and Top Rope
Long/Lat: 151.259174, -33.714044
- Description:
-
As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.
Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.
Climate / Conditions
The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.
The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present.
The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)
Getting There
The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.
From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag. FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005 | 24 | 12m , 4 |
Matt Webster 7 years agoChris Yeomans 7 years ago
| ||||
| 2 |
2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 23 | 15m , 3 |
JJ 8 years agoChris Bentham 9 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 3 |
Some Girls Wander By Mistake
Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket. FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 22 | 14m , 4 |
Sean Barnes 9 months agoLeigh Wells 6 years ago
| ||||
| 4 |
Kiosks
Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 22 | 12m , 3 |
Sean Barnes 9 months agoSean Barnes 1 years ago
| ||||
| 5 |
Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off. FA: Craig Dungey, 2001 | 22 | 10m , 3 |
Sean Barnes 9 months agoLee McDougall 1 years ago
| ||||
| 6 |
Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off FA: Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 23 | 12m , 1 |
Chris Yeomans 7 years ago
| ||||
| 7 |
Iron Chef
Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam. Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings. FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 23 | 13m , 5 |
Vanessa Wills 3 years agoDavid O'Donnell 7 years ago
| ||||
| 8 |
Frantic
Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger. FA: Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus, 2002 | 21 | 15m , 4 |
Sam May 4 months agoSean 5 months ago
| ||||
| 9 |
Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 19 | 20m , 4 |
Simon Miller 7 months agoSimon Miller 8 months ago
| ||||
| 10 |
Mum's the Word
Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up. FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain, 1999 | 16 | 10m |
Rod Smith 2 years agoRod Smith 5 years ago
| ||||
| 11 |
For the Good of the Claws
4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 24 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 12 |
Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that. FA: Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain, 2001 | 18 | 17m , 4 |
Scott Lacey 5 months agoRanger Dave 6 months ago
| ||||
| 13 |
Ag Science
1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 16 | 18m , 4 |
Sean 5 months agoBrendon Flanagan 6 months ago
| ||||
| 14 |
Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection. Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam. Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height. Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk FA: Michael Combley, James Carpenter, 2012 | 17 | 15m , 4 | |||||
| 15 |
Technical Short Talk
Start is marked TST. Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 18 | 16m , 3 |
Adrian Kladnig 4 months agoSimon Miller 6 months ago
| ||||
| 16 | Kicks | 20 | 15m |
Brendon Flanagan 1 years agoRod Smith 4 years ago
| ||||
| 17 | Taranesque | 20 | 12m , 3 |
Sean Barnes 1 years agoPhil Brian 2 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 18 |
Common Origin
Start is marked CO. Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag. FA: Craig Martin, John Davis, 1982 | 16 | 15m , 2 |
Brendon Flanagan 4 months agoSean 5 months ago
| ||||
| 19 |
Wimples
Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs. A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 24 | 10m , 3 | |||||
| 20 |
Start as for Wimples. Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential. FA: Steve Kelly, 1998 | 21 X | 15m |
Steve 15 years ago
| ||||
| 21 |
Common Sense
Marked HTS. 3m right of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams. | 17 | 12m , 2 |
Rod Smith 5 years agoRod Smith 7 years ago
| ||||
| 22 | TPI | 15 | 10m |
John Thirlwell 3 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 23 | Question Marks | 14 | 7m |
Damien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 24 |
A
Down below 'Common Origin' Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet | 18 | 10m , 4 |
Fernando Vidal 11 days agoScott Lacey 5 months ago
| ||||
| 25 |
4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A' FA: Chris Yeomans & Duane Maxwell, 2003 | 18 | 10m , 4 |
Fernando Vidal 6 days agoFernando Vidal 11 days ago
| ||||
| 26 |
Trickles
Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A' FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 21 | 10m , 4 |
Lee McDougall 1 years agoEduardo Estigoni 3 years ago
| ||||
| 27 |
Communal Nose
8m right of Trickles. Pleasant right arete of the block. FA: Craig Martin, Russ Davis, 1992 | 9 X | 20m |
Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago
| ||||
| 28 |
| 18 | 19m |
Greg 2 weeks agoZa 5 months ago
| ||||
| 29 |
3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above. FA: Mikl, 1980 | 24 | 20m , 5 |
Cameron Shorter 3 months agoSean Barnes 9 months ago
| ||||
| 30 |
FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004 | 18 | 15m |
Greg 2 weeks agoCameron Shorter 5 months ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 31 | Colonial Mentality | 8 | 10m |
Sam May 4 months agoCameron Shorter 6 months ago
| ||||
| 32 | Born Under Lunges | 18 | 12m |
Brendon Flanagan 6 months agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 33 |
B
Start marked '20'. Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall. | 21 | 18m , 7 |
Tim O'Mahony 3 years agoJJ 8 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 34 |
Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up. | 18 | 8m |
Chantelle bryson 10 weeks agoJohannes 3 months ago
| ||||
| 35 |
Unfair Dismissal
Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m. | 20 | 15m |
Sam May 4 months agoAndrew Ingles 8 years ago
| ||||
| 36 |
Start 2m right of C. Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings. Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up. | 24 | 15m , 4 |
Vanessa Wills 3 years agoStephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago
| ||||
| 37 |
Sweet Mercury
The first crack 5m right of the cave. FA: Craig Martin, 1984 | 15 | 12m | |||||
| 38 |
Thin crack 10m right of Sweet Mercury. Lower offs. FA: Craig Martin, SID, 1984 | 17 | 20m |
Sam May 4 months agoDamien Haines 9 years ago
| ||||
1.4.4. The Den 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Den Dyno | V7 | ||||
| 2 | Kyles Rule | V6 | ||||
| 3 | Sloper traverse | V8 | ||||
| 4 | The Burn | V11 | ||||
| 5 | Romper Stomper | V9 |
Daniel da Silva 5 years ago
| |||
| 6 | Fight Club | V10 | ||||
| 7 | Tyler Derdan | V12 | ||||
| 8 | Hi Sylv | V7 |
Daniel da Silva 5 years ago
| |||
| 9 | Un-named | V5 |
eddie 6 months agoDaniel da Silva 6 years ago
| |||
| 10 | Un-named Traverse | V6 |
Daniel da Silva 6 years ago
| |||
1.4.5. Oxford Falls 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- Trad,Top Rope
- Description:
-
Behind the waterfall! Climbing here may be currently banned.
- Access Issues:
-
Climbing here may be currently banned. Park at the gate over the waterfall crossing walk to the waterfall.
- Approach:
-
Rap bolts on the lower ledge on the right hand side (facing down the waterfall). Or you can walk around to the right.
- Ethic:
-
Traditional Climbing with limited fixed protection. Still under development. Please do not bolt here.
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Snakes on the vertical plane
Up the right trending diagonal line to the ledge. Traverse the easy ledge to the pile of blocks on the left (Two snakes were encountred on the first ascent) . Belay from here. Straight up through slabs (litle gear for first 3 m's but easy climbing) to top out near abseil bolts. Not a lot of gear on the first pitch and you will need micro cams for what is there. FA: James Bultitude, Sam May, 2012 | 16 | 25m |
James 8 months ago
| ||||
| 2 |
Scribbles
Best escape route we tried. Scramble up to the left of the cave for a few metres, to the cleanest-looking blocky ramp. Up. Cams in breaks and a nut or two. Slopey top-out. FA: Sam May, James Bultitude, | 9 | 12m | |||||
1.5. Elanora Heights 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 151.268691, -33.704984
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A (Project) | ? | 12m | |||
| 2 | B | 23 | 10m | |||
| 3 | C (Project) | ?(S) | 18m | |||
| 4 |
D
FA: Jason's Project, | 26 | 12m | |||
| 5 |
FA: Steve Kelly, | 25 | 12m |
Steve 14 years ago
| ||
| 6 | E | ?(S) | 15m | |||
| 7 | F | ?(S) | 10m | |||
| 8 | G (Project) | ?(S) | 13m | |||
| 9 | H (Project) | ?(S) | 12m | |||
| 10 | I | 26 | 16m | |||
| 11 | J | ?(S) | 15m | |||
| 12 | K | 24 | 15m |
Steve 16 years ago
| ||
| 13 | L | 26 | 15m | |||
| 14 |
FA: Jason Rutter, | 24 | 17m |
Steve 14 years ago
| ||
| 15 | N (Project) | ?(S) | 18m | |||
| 16 | O (Project) | ?(S) | 12m | |||
| 17 | P (Project) | ?(S) | 13m | |||
| 18 | Q | 27 | 13m | |||
| 19 | R | ?(S) | 12m | |||
| 20 | S | ?(S) | 12m | |||
| 21 | T | ?(S) | 10m | |||
1.6. Whale Beach 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
?,Sport
and Aid
Long/Lat: 151.331894, -33.610509
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Suck Face With a Jellyfish | 21 | 15m | |||
| 2 | Hey, Buster | 22 | 15m | |||
| 3 | East Ridge | 17 | 18m | |||
| 4 | Crimson Streams | 17 | 15m | |||
| 5 | A | 20 | 15m | |||
| 6 | Pull Up the Roots | 18 | 20m | |||
| 7 |
| 19 | 20m | |||
| 8 | Double Release | 17 | 20m | |||
| 9 |
| 20 | 8m | |||
| 10 | Anorak Man | 17 | 7m | |||
| 11 |
| 21 | 40m | |||
| 12 | B | ? | ||||
| 13 | The Pendulum | 19 M1 | 40m | |||
1.7. Barrenjoey 190 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,Boulder
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.328318, -33.580298
- Description:
-
A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.
- Access Issues:
-
There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.
- Approach:
-
From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block.
- Ethic:
-
The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.
1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 151.326143, -33.580905
- Description:© (secretary)
-
Lighthouse track wall is on a flat section of the signposted four-wheel-drive track leading to the lighthouse, about 200m up the hill.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
2m left of H. Desperate start to lip (manky BR), delicate wall past 2 BRs to ledge. Bulges, right to overhang and up. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 22 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
Hackitt
Obvious cliff splitting crack. Trench warfare to start, then pleasantly up the crack to the cave. Step left over roof (take care with loose rock) and up pleasant headwall. Well protected. FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982 | 13 | 15m |
Tim Harris 17 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
Breakslaps
Start: Middle of wall 5m right of IFP.
FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 19 | 20m | |||
| 4 |
Possum Taunter
7m right of B below crack 5m up. Up crack to the "possum cave", step right and up short offwidth. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 15 | 15m |
Will Monks 14 years ago
| ||
| 5 |
Incorrectly marked "PT". 20m right of PT at twin cracks. Steeply out of alcove and up twin cracks. Thought provoking crux over roof to lovely headwall. Take small to mid size cams. FA: Roy Chick, Ian Strut, 1984 | 15 | 20m | |||
1.7.2. Customs House Rocks 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- Trad,Boulder and Aid
- Description:© (secretary)
-
A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, head right and onto the lighthouse track. About 4m after the signpost for the old Customs House site, a track heads right off the track and leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.
Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
A
Up the manky old bolt ladder. | M1 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
Remaining Shame
No protection after the ledge. Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 16 R | 20m | |||
| 3 |
Thresher's Flail
Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney. Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 12 | 18m | |||
| 4 |
Pugnatious Puke
Good jams and protection. Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 15 | 14m | |||
| 5 |
Oedipus Complex
Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete. Start: Right of PP. FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982 | 12 | 10m | |||
| 6 |
Cockroach Crack
Start on ledge right of OC. Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing. FA: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 9 | 8m | |||
| 7 |
Septic Enigma
Offwidth right of CC | 12 | 4m | |||
| 8 |
Half Pipe
Ramp right of SE. | 12 | 4m | |||
1.7.3. Southwest 86 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,Sport
and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.323751, -33.580352
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the L side of sand dues past a house, a red shed and a large boulder. Continues along rocky shore to track beside another two houses. Walk along this from approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs. The trail hits the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Routes are ordered from Right to Left. The trail meets the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'. | ||||||||
| 1 |
Evil Spuds
The overhang. | 14 | 6m | |||||
| 2 |
Gollum's Grope
The offwidth. | 12 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
Pyroclean
The chimney. | 7 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Zodiac's Pure Vegetables
10m right of Haircut. Up the wall and seam. FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984 | 22 | 8m | |||||
| 5 |
Haircut
The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together. The offwidth. | 13 | 4m | |||||
| 6 |
Solipsism
The arete. | 13 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
Manteau
The wall. | 12 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
Speleolie
The crack. | 9 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
Feetus Position
The offwidth. | 9 | 4m | |||||
| 10 |
Exit Tortons
3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 5 | 13m |
Sam May 4 months agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 11 |
Albatross
5m right of FF. Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA). FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 14 | 15m |
Damien Haines 17 years ago
| ||||
| 12 |
Frog's Fling
1m right of K9. Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17 FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982 | 17 | 13m |
Damien Haines 17 years ago
| ||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 13 |
K9
2m right of R. Up the flaring finger crack. Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?) You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust. FA: T. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982 | 17 | 13m |
Cameron Shorter 4 months agoRod Smith 2 years ago
| ||||
| 14 |
Ratbite
The obvious corner 2m right of WG. FA: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones, 1983 | 11 | 18m | |||||
| 15 |
Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right. FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983 | 21 | 12m , 3 |
Rod Smith 2 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 16 |
Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart
1.5m right of PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB. FA: Mike Law, Craig B. Martin, 1985 | 22 | 7m |
Damien Haines 17 years ago
| ||||
| 17 |
Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block. Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14! FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 16 | 20m , 3 |
Cameron Shorter 4 months agoStephen Pope 5 months ago
| ||||
| 18 |
A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked. Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off. Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB. Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off. | 20 | 7m |
Rod Smith 2 years agoNathan Bolton 5 years ago
| ||||
| 19 |
A (Open project)
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted. | 25 | 8m | |||||
| 20 |
Millie
Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB. Start: Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel' | 10 | 11m | |||||
| 21 |
Jezebel
On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station. | 9 | 11m , 2 |
Matt Short 6 weeks agoStephen Pope 5 months ago
| ||||
| 22 |
Two Steps Forward
As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 13 | 20m , 1 |
Stephen Pope 5 months agoNick Clow 1 years ago
| ||||
| 23 |
Carrie Bradshaw
Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB. FA: Niall Doherty, 2003 | 14 | 12m , 3 |
John Thirlwell 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 24 |
Starboard Barnacles
Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay. FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984 | 14 | 20m |
Scott 3 years agoCaitlin Hurley 5 years ago
| ||||
| 25 |
Elf Town
Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984 | 14 R | 20m |
Rod Smith 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 26 |
Judgement Day
2m left of ET. Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 14 | 20m |
Sam May 4 months agoRod Smith 2 years ago
| ||||
| 27 |
2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 18 | 25m |
James 1 years agoNathan Bolton 5 years ago
| ||||
| 28 |
As for Enterprise Follow flake on right at top. FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin, 1983 | 17 | 15m , 4 |
Nick Clow 1 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 29 |
2m left of E. Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 15 | 20m |
Simon Miller 5 weeks agoMatt Short 6 weeks ago
| ||||
|
The following routes are all to the Left of where the trail meets the cliff. | ||||||||
| 30 |
Arachibutyrophobia
(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth). Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn' Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD. FA: Peter Ward, 1986 | 19 | 20m |
Phil Ward 6 years agoNiall Doherty 7 years ago
| ||||
| 31 |
A classic steep slab-climb. Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia' Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD. FA: Glenn Robbins, | 18 | 20m |
Cameron Shorter 4 months agoNick Clow 2 years ago
| ||||
| 32 |
A nice variation on 'Liquid Insanity'. Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay). FA: Captain Black, | 18 | 20m |
Alwyn Johnson 5 months agomartin silk 3 years ago
| ||||
| 33 |
Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS. | 18 | 18m , 5 |
Rod Smith 8 years agoD Parsons 8 years ago
| ||||
| 34 |
A nice variation on 'Marsupial Smearer'. Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m Left of 'Marsupial Smearer'. As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack. | 20 | 22m |
Rod Smith 4 years agoRod Smith 4 years ago
| ||||
| 35 |
Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF Past chockstones, getting harder with height. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 14 | 20m |
Phil Ward 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 36 |
Tropico
Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO). | 15 | 20m |
James 1 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 37 |
Start below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 17 R | 20m |
Sam May 4 months agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 38 |
Wild Ride
Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO | 16 | 18m |
Simon Miller 5 weeks agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 39 |
Crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT). FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 9 | 12m |
James 1 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 40 |
Womb To Tomb
1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO). FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982 | 17 | 12m | |||||
| 41 |
2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack. Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 15 | 12m |
Matt Short 6 weeks agoSam May 4 months ago
| ||||
| 42 |
Cosmic Ecology Variant Start
1m left of CE. Up to join CE. FA: Craig D. Martin, | 15 | 5m | |||||
| 43 |
A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB FA: Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 17 | 12m |
Phil Ward 2 years ago
| ||||
| 44 |
Ways Of Our Lives
Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam. Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT. FA: Mike Meyers, David Hains, 1984 | 22 | 15m | |||||
| 45 |
As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential"). FA: Mike Meyers, M. Toakley, 1983 | 20 | 12m | |||||
| 46 |
3m left of SV. Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay. FA: Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982 | 14 | 7m |
Rod Smith 3 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 47 |
Crack left of CS. | 10 | 12m |
Brett W 2 years agoPhil Ward 6 years ago
| ||||
| 48 |
A queer fish if ever there was one. Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay. | 14 | 6m , 1 |
Rod Smith 3 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 49 |
The off-width boulder problem. | 12 | 4m | |||||
| 50 |
The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again
Start below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay. | 19 | 10m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoRod Smith 5 years ago
| ||||
| 51 |
Benign
4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay. FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 19 | 10m |
Lee McDougall 1 years agoRod Smith 3 years ago
| ||||
| 52 |
Benign Variant Finish
As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish. | 16 | 10m |
Rod Smith 2 years agoPhil Ward 6 years ago
| ||||
| 53 |
Mike's Cop-out
Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs. Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT. | 10 | 8m | |||||
| 54 |
Chimney left of B. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 7 | 10m |
Elliot Braham 9 years ago
| ||||
| 55 |
Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain. | 19 | 20m |
John Thirlwell 3 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 56 |
Orgasmic
Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 11 | 25m |
Sam May 4 months agoRod Smith 3 years ago
| ||||
| 57 |
3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb. FA: Craig B. Martin, N. Moran, 1984 | 18 | 20m |
Rod Smith 2 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 58 |
2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay. FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 19 | 20m |
Sam May 4 months agoJames 1 years ago
| ||||
| 59 |
1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 14 | 16m |
John Thirlwell 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 60 |
Borcat Blues
2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL. FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 18 | 20m |
Phil Ward 3 years agoVanessa Wills 3 years ago
| ||||
| 61 |
Tangerine Dream
2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 16 | 15m |
Phil Ward 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 62 |
2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD FA: Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos, 1986 | 18 | 15m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoRod Smith 6 years ago
| ||||
| 63 |
8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 10 | 10m |
Phil Ward 3 years agoJohn Thirlwell 3 years ago
| ||||
| 64 |
Nightingale
Start: The easy chimney left of CH. A quick ascent or decent route. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 7 | 10m |
Tim Harris 17 years ago
| ||||
| 65 |
Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB. FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, | 16 | 15m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoRod Smith 5 years ago
| ||||
| 66 |
Arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, | 15 | 22m | |||||
| 67 |
Start: 2m left of PP. Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however). | 21 | 25m |
John Thirlwell 3 years agoChad Harrison 10 years ago
| ||||
| 68 |
Intoxicating Liquor
Left of SEX. Up crack then up chimney above that. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 9 | 20m |
Sandy Lamond 6 years agoRod Smith 8 years ago
| ||||
| 69 |
1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard. | 19 | 16m |
Rod Smith 10 months agoNick Clow 2 years ago
| ||||
| 70 |
Very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP. FA: Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 18 | 20m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoRod Smith 6 years ago
| ||||
| 71 |
Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB FA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar, 2003 | 22 | 12m |
Vanessa Wills 3 years agoRhonda Luhrs 6 years ago
| ||||
| 72 |
Left of AS. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 15 | 16m |
Rod Smith 10 months agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 73 |
Crack 'n' Up
Another wriggler! Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 8 | 17m |
Greg Scholtens 5 years agoSandy Lamond 6 years ago
| ||||
| 74 |
For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon. 2m left of CnU. Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay. | 19 | 12m |
Sam May 4 months agoPhil Ward 2 years ago
| ||||
| 75 |
Mode
2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge. FA: Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville, 2003 | 16 | 14m , 3 |
Lee McDougall 1 years agoNick Clow 2 years ago
| ||||
| 76 |
2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge. FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 16 | 18m |
Vanessa Wills 3 years agoPhil Ward 3 years ago
| ||||
| 77 |
Pan Pacific Wall
4m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection. | 16 | 16m |
Simon Ellis 4 months agoRod Smith 4 years ago
| ||||
| 78 |
Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW. FA: Craig B. Martin, Mike Law, 1985 | 19 | 15m |
Leigh Wells 6 years agoPhil Ward 6 years ago
| ||||
| 79 |
Wrong Line of Learning
Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge. FA: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003 | 22 | 15m | |||||
| 80 |
5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay. FA: Mike Law, 1985 | 25 | 12m |
Sam May 4 months agoLee McDougall 1 years ago
| ||||
| 81 |
Suer
Corner crack left of PoF | 10 | 6m | |||||
| 82 |
Krill
The off-width boulder problem left of S. | 13 | 6m |
Phil Ward 6 years agoDamien Haines 16 years ago
| ||||
| 83 |
Where Ikon should have gone. Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay. FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 19 | 10m |
Sam May 4 months agoLee McDougall 1 years ago
| ||||
| 84 |
Ikon
As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up. FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984 | 17 | 10m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoDavid O'Donnell 5 years ago
| ||||
| 85 |
Ray's Moppy
Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay. FA: Ray Haak, John Shaw, 2005 | 11 | 10m |
Phil Ward 6 years ago
| ||||
| 86 |
Lips
FA: Jim Dickins/Sandra Parker, | 11 | 11m |
Rod Smith 7 years ago
| ||||
1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- Trad,?
- Description:© (secretary)
-
A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Observatory
Stand on small ledge after bulge, place #6 rock and move off into space. Up crack. Start: 5m right of 'Leon the Klepto Cat'. | 15 | 20m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoNiall Doherty 4 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece. Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay. FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1983 | 19 | 20m |
Phil Ward 2 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
4m left of LtKC. Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay. FA: Craig B. Martin, 1984 | 23 | 10m | |||
| 4 |
Orbs Dilated Glory
3m left of TaT. Straight up wall. A good sunset spot. FA: Craig B. Martin (solo), | 12 | 13m | |||
| 5 |
No Sorry It Makes Me Fart
2m left of ODG. Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission. FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004 | 14 | 9m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoNiall Doherty 4 years ago
| ||
| 6 |
Baby Steps
As for NSIMMF. On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay. FA: Niall Doherty, 2005 | 10 | 9m |
Phil Ward 6 years agoNiall Doherty 7 years ago
| ||
| 7 |
More Tea Vicar?
Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS. Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay. FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004 | 11 | 9m |
Phil Ward 2 years agoPhil Ward 6 years ago
| ||
1.7.5. Stranglers Corner 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
- Description:© (secretary)
-
Faces West - a summer's microwave. Good Rock
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock. It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Home Made Jamb
Textbook layaway jamb. If only it were longer! | 10 | 7m | |||
| 2 |
Seller's Pirate
Boulder Problem. Start: 'The Crack'. | 8 | 4m | |||
| 3 |
Never a Frown
Boulder Problem. Start: The wall. | 13 | 4m | |||
| 4 |
Inertia
Boulder Problem. Start: The crack. | 11 | 4m | |||
1.7.6. North Palm Beach 37 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,?
and Sport
Long/Lat: 151.331080, -33.581361
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
Up 4wd track to the lighthouse. Then right down various tracks, to reach the crags.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Stove Leg Crack
Boulder Problem. Start: Off-width boulder problem. | 7 | 5m | |||
| 2 |
Concise Crack
Boulder Problem. Start: Slab, then corner-crack. | 8 | 6m | |||
| 3 |
Thirteen Hex
Strenuous. Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'. | 17 | 13m | |||
| 4 |
A very enjoyable excursion indeed. Start: Right of CC. | 18 | 17m | |||
| 5 |
Shrubberies
Quite 'Steep'. Start: Orange wall below large overhangin off-width left of 'Oggindeli'. | 17 | 17m | |||
| 6 |
Oggindeli
Veterinary delight. Start: Short wall 4m left of TTP. | 15 | 6m | |||
| 7 | Tartan Tomato Plant | 19 | 15m | |||
| 8 |
Well-respected problem with some thin moves near the top. Craig Martin took a 10m ground-fall attempting the FA (without BRs). Silly man! Start: On prominent arete near large boulders. | 23 | 15m | |||
| 9 |
SID's Supremacy
Overhang problem; second pitch of OL. | 18 | 4m | |||
| 10 |
Paw Antics
Some interesting moves-and falls, eh, Animal? Grabee rap rope burnee widle paws. Start: Wall left of Frog\'s Anus.
| 19 | 12m | |||
| 11 |
Frog's Anus
No bad if dry. Start: Crack in corner opposite large boulder paralle to track. | 14 | 10m | |||
| 12 |
Zany Wall
Fairly pleasant jaunt. Start: 3m right of FA.
| 12 | 19m | |||
| 13 |
Sustained corner-crack. Start: 3m right of ZW. | 16 | 19m | |||
| 14 |
A three-star classic: deduct two start for the walk in. Start: Corner right of RPS. | 18 | 20m | |||
| 15 | Windward Sausage | 9 | 10m | |||
| 16 |
Roomba Revisited
Boulder Problem. Start: The arete to slabs. | 6 | 10m | |||
| 17 |
Roomba Revisited Direct
Boulder Problem. Start: The bulge | 14 | 10m | |||
| 18 |
A Clean Break
Good, clean fun. Start: Cracks left of 'Quarto Direct'. | 16 | 8m | |||
| 19 |
Quarto Direct
Balancy. Start: 2m left of 'Quarto' | 15 | 18m | |||
| 20 |
Quarto
Up slab to ledge, left and up short corner. Start: 40m right of ZW. | 10 | 20m | |||
| 21 |
Excellent. Protection, rock and moves are all good. Start: 5m right of 'Quarto'. | 18 | 15m | |||
| 22 | Eulogy | 14 | 22m | |||
| 23 |
| 22 | 15m | |||
| 24 |
| 22 | 15m | |||
| 25 |
| 23 | 15m | |||
| 26 | Roast Possum | 13 | 4m | |||
| 27 | Defiant Deflaration | 16 | 11m | |||
| 28 | Ode to an Orange | 17 | 15m | |||
| 29 | Stick It | 18 | 15m | |||
| 30 | Same Reality | 17 | 15m | |||
| 31 | Plenty Enough | 24 | 15m | |||
| 32 | Freck's Effort | 8 | 10m | |||
| 33 |
| 18 | 15m | |||
| 34 |
| 20 | 15m | |||
| 35 |
| 21 | 15m | |||
| 36 |
| 20 | 12m | |||
| 37 | Benji the Upholstered Bat | 19 | 10m | |||
1.7.7. Disorder Corners 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 151.330731, -33.579112
- Description:© (secretary)
-
A small patch of good to excellent rock in amongst the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).
Unfortunately all of the fixed protection rotted millenia ago making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below the top of the cliff (the cliff is choss higher up).
- Approach:© (secretary)
-
The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag and continue on past it and around the end of the headland. Ignore endless choss until you encounter a nice orange corner in excellent rock, near a large sloping boulder. You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
7m right of E. Undercut and balancy to horizontal. Traverse right to arete and head straight up to manky double BBs. Rap off. FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985 | 20 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
1.5m right of E. Desperate moves up thin cracks past breaks. At third break move up and right to main break on wall. Move left to crack and up to ledge (manky BBs). Rap off. FA: Giles Bradbury, Craig B. Martin, 1986 | 24 | 25m | |||
| 3 |
2m right of E. Up short crack and past breaks to obvious traverse line. Hard moves lead diagonally right through poorer rock (jugs) to arete. Up to ledge with manky double BBs. Rap off. FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985 | 21 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
Direct finish for SOTLV. Up SOTLV to traverse line and blast straight up past 2 manky BRs to large break. Head diagonally right to ledge then downclimb arete for 8m to manky BBs. Rap off. FA: Craig B. Martin, Giles Bradbury, 1986 | 22 | 15m | |||
| 5 |
The obvious book corner in the middle of the good rock. Up the corner to manky BBs. Rap off. Protection looks a bit dubious (the corner looks fused). FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 14 | 15m |
Damien Haines 9 years agoSteve 18 years ago
| ||
| 6 |
Just left of E. Up the wall (cams in breaks) to cave (manky BB). Rap off or traverse left and scramble down (scary!). FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983 | 18 | 15m | |||
1.7.8. Palm Beach Boulders 37 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 151.324452, -33.595650
1.7.8.1. The North Boulder 24 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
- Mostly Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | V2 | ||||
| 2 | 2 | V2 |
Nick Clow 6 years ago
| |||
| 3 | 3 | V3 |
Nick Clow 6 years ago
| |||
| 4 |
4a
R side of the arete via a long reach | V4 |
Nick Clow 5 years ago
| |||
| 5 | 4 | V2 | ||||
| 6 | 5 | V1 | ||||
| 7 | Traverse of E Face |
Nick Clow 2 years ago
| ||||
| 8 | 6 | V0+ | ||||
| 9 | 7 | V1 | ||||
| 10 | 8 | V0- | ||||
| 11 | 9 | V0 | ||||
| 12 | 10 | V1 | ||||
| 13 | 11 | V4 | ||||
| 14 | 12 | V3 | ||||
| 15 | 13 | V4 | ||||
| 16 | 14 | V8 |
Nick Clow 2 years ago
| |||
| 17 | 15 | V0 | ||||
| 18 | 16 | V1 | ||||
| 19 | 17 | V2 | ||||
| 20 | 18 | V3 | ||||
| 21 | 19 | V1 | ||||
| 22 | 20 | V1 | ||||
| 23 | 21 | V7 | ||||
| 24 | 22 | V3 |
Nick Clow 6 years ago
| |||
1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder 13 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | V0- |
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago
| |||
| 2 |
| V1 | ||||
| 3 |
| V1 |
Tim O'Mahony 6 years agoZorba Parer 6 years ago
| |||
| 4 |
| V3 |
Zorba Parer 6 years ago
| |||
| 5 |
| V2 | ||||
| 6 | 6 | V1 |
David O'Donnell 5 years agoZorba Parer 6 years ago
| |||
| 7 |
| V3 |
Tim O'Mahony 6 years agoRob Barker 6 years ago
| |||
| 8 |
| V4 | ||||
| 9 |
| V1 |
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago
| |||
| 10 | 10 | V5 | ||||
| 11 |
| V6 | ||||
| 12 |
| V0 | ||||
| 13 |
| V3 | ||||
1.8. Parriwi Road Mosman 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Route on the right hand side of the slab. Broken slab with nice holds on the head wall. Ancient carrot in the centre of the head wall shows previous unrecorded climbing activity. FA: Nick Reese, 2008 | 15 | 25m | |||
1.8.1. The Slab 1 route in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rebirth of the Cool | 15 | 25m | |||
1.8.2. Top Side Boulders 1 route in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Captains Crack
FA: Nick Reese, | 16 | 8m | |||
1.9. Freshwater Beach 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Top Rope,Trad
and Sport
Long/Lat: 151.290205, -33.783916
- Description:
-
Sea cliffs on queenscliff end
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
I like to ride my bicycle
Near over hanging belay ledge, traverse out or start form below, avoid dirty and loose rocks up slabs before no hands rest and then slightly chossy but good roof walk off from below roof possible. | 16 | 25m |
James 2 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
Gakwers
Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007 | 18 | 28m , 3 | |||
| 3 |
Damocles
8m left of Gawkers. Up to platform with huge block. Move 4m left to vertical groove in centre of East face of block. (Gawkers heads up the North face). Platform at top of block. Up overhanging layback. 2 new SS BB. CAUTION: The large overhanging block left of the layback has crack almost completely around it. Start: Start: 50m along cliff face from beach. Head left up diagonal crack in blank wall. | 20 | 28m | |||
1.10. Palm Beach Boulders 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 151.324457, -33.595637
- Description:© (sm)
-
Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand at Palm Beach with some good problems. 'Excellent' for a swim and warm down after a day at Barrenjoey.
- Approach:© (sm)
-
Continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall. | V2 | ||||||
| 2 |
Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid. Start: North-east arete of south boulder | V0 |
Stephen Pope 5 months ago
| |||||
| 3 |
Up using the thin seam which turns left up the top. Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder | V4 | ||||||
| 4 |
The Easy Slab
Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots. Start: North-east face of the north boulder. | V0 | ||||||
| 5 |
The Hole
Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh. Start: East face of southern boulder. | V0 | ||||||
| 6 |
Up to the flake and layback. Start: Left side of east face of north boulder | V1 | ||||||
| 7 |
The slightly overhanging, thin crack/seam. Great climbing. Start: South face of northern boulder. | V3 | ||||||
| 8 |
Fun crimpy face. Start: North face of the north boulder | V1 | ||||||
1.11. Northern Beaches Rockhouse 39 routes in Gym
- Summary:
-
Sport,Boulder
Long/Lat: 151.277451, -33.764384
- Description:
-
This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.
If you climb at Rockhouse you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.
If you are from Rockhouse and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)
- Approach:
-
Unit 4E, 9 - 13 Winbourne Road, Brookvale, NSW, 2100
1.11.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Sport
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Grade 6 route | 6 | 6m | |||
| 2 | Grade 7 route | 7 | 6m | |||
| 3 | Grade 8 route | 8 | 6m | |||
| 4 | Grade 9 route | 9 | 6m | |||
| 5 | Grade 10 route | 10 | 6m | |||
| 6 | Grade 11 route | 11 | 6m | |||
| 7 | Grade 12 route | 12 | 6m | |||
| 8 | Grade 13 route | 13 | 6m | |||
| 9 | Grade 14 route | 14 | 6m | |||
| 10 | Grade 15 route | 15 | 6m | |||
| 11 | Grade 16 route | 16 | 6m | |||
| 12 | Grade 17 route | 17 | 6m | |||
| 13 | Grade 18 route | 18 | 6m | |||
| 14 | Grade 19 route | 19 | 6m | |||
| 15 | Grade 20 route | 20 | 6m | |||
| 16 | Grade 21 route | 21 | 6m | |||
| 17 | Grade 22 route | 22 | 6m | |||
| 18 | Grade 23 route | 23 | 6m | |||
| 19 | Grade 24 route | 24 | 6m | |||
| 20 | Grade 25 route | 25 | 6m | |||
| 21 | Grade 26 route | 26 | 6m | |||
| 22 | Grade 27 route | 27 | 6m | |||
| 23 | Grade 28 route | 28 | 6m | |||
1.11.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Grade VB- problem | VB- | 3m | |||
| 2 | Grade VB problem | VB | 3m | |||
| 3 | Grade VB+ problem | VB+ | 3m | |||
| 4 | Grade V0- problem | V0- | 3m | |||
| 5 | Grade V0 problem | V0 | 3m | |||
| 6 | Grade V0+ problem | V0+ | 3m | |||
| 7 | Grade V1 problem | V1 | 3m | |||
| 8 | Grade V2 problem | V2 | 3m | |||
| 9 | Grade V3 problem | V3 | 3m | |||
| 10 | Grade V4 problem | V4 | 3m | |||
| 11 | Grade V5 problem | V5 | 3m | |||
| 12 | Grade V6 problem | V6 | 3m | |||
| 13 | Grade V7 problem | V7 | 3m | |||
| 14 | Grade V8 problem | V8 | 3m | |||
| 15 | Grade V9 problem | V9 | 3m | |||
| 16 | Grade V10 problem | V10 | 3m | |||























