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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Alex Rogers Lee McDougall Phil Ward Will Monks Cameron Shorter James

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Northern Beaches 446 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.287204, -33.703897

1.1. North Head 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,? and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.299583, -33.816273

Description:© (christo)

On the cliffs below the lookouts at the very end of 'North Head'.

Approach:© (christo)

To get to the top of the Fear and the Bolt Ladder, walk ~10 m towards the ocean from the western lookout. Go down a small set of stairs and then jump the fence when the big concrete and rock pad (the old lookout) appears on the right. Both routes top out below the far side of this. The fisherman's descent is ~50 m further to the east and can clearly be seen from the top of the Fear.

1.1.1. Western End 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Strangely enough, the Western End is west of the lookout. From the lookout follow a faint clifftop track to the west until you find a manky fisherman's descent.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Do or Die

Start at the far right hand end of the ledge. Move right for about 12m above the roof to the arete. Follow the twin seams.

FA: Tom Williams,

20
Trad 26m
2 Scylla
17
Trad 20m
3 Prophylactic Crack
20
Trad 15m
4 Cruel Fin
20
Trad 17m
5 Destroy All Andrews
13
Trad 15m
6 * Blood and Seamen
17
Trad 15m
7 Surges
16
Trad 12m
8 Aquatracks
16
Trad 12m
9 Can't Spell Caviar
18
Trad 12m
10 Darling Debi
19
Trad 14m
11 Newtown Night's Transfiguration
17
Trad 15m
12 * Overkill
20
Trad 30m

1.1.2. Main Area 23 routes in Area

Summary:
?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.300236, -33.822551

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Honour Thy Father
22
Unknown 60m
2 * Big Craziness
23
Aid 50m
3 * Destroy All Monsters
20
Unknown 45m
4 *** The Fear

One of sydney's best climbs. A must do!!!

The rock isn't fantastic and the most of the bolts are pretty dodgy, but this adds to the ambience. The roof traverse on pitch two is amazing and offers ample reward for getting off the belay ledge (the crux).

Take a normal rack of draws + bolt plates. A single set of cams (up to BD 4) and a set of wires might ease the mind (as well as offering better protection than some of the bolts).

Start: Start on first ledge above the rocks and scrub at the base of the cliff. From the sea, climb up the first ladder on the fishermans descent and walk left a little way. The climb starts just across the 'nasty step-across', below the obviuous line of bolts and the massive roof up high.

  1. 20m (17) Move up through sandy breaks past bolts to obvious V corner. 'Grovel' up this and then traverse left to belay ledge (2 BR - at least one of which is newish).

  2. 20m (17) A very hard mantle/high reachy move off the belay ledge leads to pleasant, steep climbing. Traverse out through the massive roof on good jugs to the final headwall. Beware of the final mantle.

FA: Mike Law, 1989

17 R
Trad 47m
Caitlin Hurley 5 years ago

Amazing view! Also new found respect for fishermen (based on the descent from the lookout). First...

Phil Davis 8 years ago

Leaches are uncool - the climb is just as exciting as visiting some of the bunkers ...

5 *** The Bolt Ladder

A line of fourty-something bolts, most of which look like blobs of rust. Apparently there are three newish stainless bolts on the crux though...

Start: Start as for 'The Fear'.

  1. 10m (16) Start as for 'The Fear', but continue straight up to a large belay ledge rather than than traversing left into the corner.

  2. 25m (20) Start up coner, past hardish moves before shifting left onto the arete. Follow the left trending roof/corner. The line of manky bolts and rust streaks leads the way.

20 R
Trad 35m
Tony Williams 17 years ago

another epic! Second refused to climb to top!Say no more!

6 The Bolt Ladder Variant
20
Unknown 30m
7 The Bolt Ladder Direct Start
21
Unknown 35m
8 * Plunging Necklines
23
Unknown 60m
9 Sir Lawrence Whelk
20
Sport 15m
10 Bumbly's Revenge
21
Unknown 15m
11 Turds on the Move
20
Sport 12m
12 Drop Bears
19
Unknown 55m
13 Scrabble
18
Unknown 30m
14 Polluted Beaches
19
Unknown 15m
15 Like Rain
21
Unknown 18m
16 * Beneath the Wonderdob
19
Unknown 25m
17 ** WW3
15
Unknown 50m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Good rock and actual pro, not bad for a sea cliff

Bear 16 years ago

a good warm up climb

18 Moments of Glory
18
Unknown 25m
19 * Albatrocity
18
Unknown 52m
20 No Morays
19
Unknown 40m
21 ** Temporary Like Achilles
17
Unknown 45m
22 Ultramarine
18
Unknown 45m
23 Nastrand
17
Unknown 50m

1.1.3. Fairy Bower Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

Approach:© (christo)

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 ** Twilight's Last Gleaming

Fairly well protected, fun face climbing with an arete to finish. Lots of horizontals for gear, so take lots of cams. Wires are also handy. The rock is good by sea cliffs standards but still beware of flexing flakes and other crumbling holds.

Start: If you rap in start where the rope deposits you. If you walk along the rocks at the base, it is the only South east facing wall that looks like it won't fall down if you touch it. A little way past (south) the stone wall the pokes over the cliff top.

FA: Greg Child,

19
Trad 40m

1.1.4. Harbourside 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Lost at sea without a paddle

Start off the rock platform at low tide to the right of the sea cave.

FA: Chris & Stu, 2000

20
Trad 10m
2 War Wounds

Steep pumpy first pitch. Rambling chossy second pitch. As for Lost at Sea.

P1. (15m, 20) Follow Lost at Sea but continue left to belay stance on the big diving board. Belay off cams in the roof. P2 (35m, 10) Follow the easiest line to the top of the wall. Fairly chossy and a little run-out but very easy.

FA: Chris & Stu, 2000

20
Trad 15m

1.2. Terrey Hills 37 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport,? and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.232375, -33.685444

Description:© (adb)

A pleasant crag with an easy 5 minute access. A good mix of routes. A bit noisy. Over 29 routes under 10m, mostly with rusty carrots. Faces South but gets a bit of sun late afternoon. Leeches when its wet.

Approach:© (adb)

Park at the locked gate on the South side of Mona Vale Rd, 200m east of Kanangra Rd, Terry Hills. Follow the fire trail past a small brick building on the left. Walk straight ahead onto a walking track that veers left. This takes you to the West end of the crag. An easy walk down.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 C
?
Unknown 5m
2 BTH
?
Unknown 3m
3 S
22
Sport 4m
Donald Gibson 7 years ago

fairly sustained - hard start then about Grade 20

4 * T
18
Sport 4m
5 MA
?(S)
Sport 3m
6 CS
?
Unknown 4m
7 * SM
19
Unknown 6m
Donald Gibson 7 years ago

Bouldery start to OK mantle then easy slab

8 B
16
Unknown 10m
9 MM
?
Unknown 10m
10 A
6
Unknown 12m
11 EC
?
Unknown 10m
12 ** FTH

Thin start. Heads up and right. 4 BRs.

Start: Marked.

20
Sport 12m , 4
Dave Paine 9 years ago

Nice moves, old bolts don't looks so fantastic

13 * Orgasmotronic

Diagonally left up the airy arete. 4 BR.

Start: 10m right of FTH

22
Sport 12m , 4
14 RR
?(S)
Sport 10m
15 * Doctor T.
25
Sport 10m
16 GT
?
Unknown 8m
17 BTU

Steep overhanging pocketed wall to sandy top with runnels.

Start: Marked

?(S)
Sport 5m , 2
18 PS
?
Unknown 5m
19 D
?(S)
Sport 5m
20 GC
?
Unknown 6m
21 E
?(S)
Sport 8m
22 F
?(S)
Sport 8m
23 SLC
?(S)
Sport 7m
24 SP
?(S)
Sport 10m
25 TC
?(S)
Sport 10m
26 G
?(S)
Sport 10m
27 Agronomist

Up the thin overhanging wall to diagonal groove up high. 3 manky BR. Single manky BB. Needs more cleaning.

Start: 4m right of 'Buxom'

24
Sport 10m
28 * Sexy Mamma

Pinch up the overhanging arete to slopers then into easier territory.

2 BRs

Start: Start marked

21
Unknown 8m
29 Good Times

Up the juggy wall and across the slab. Single BB

Start: Marked

15
Unknown 8m
30 ** Euphemism

Up the overhanging pocketed wall. 3 new FH. DBB

Start: 5m right of BTU on same pocketed wall.

22
Sport 9m , 3
31 Saffron Pelican

Tasty. Slightly overhanging start, to rounded edge and up.

2BR, DBB

Start: Start marked, 15m right of F, 1m right of arete, on short east facing wall.

22
Sport 10m , 3
32 FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia)

Easy overhanging pocketed start to very thin wall near top. 2 new FH. Single BB.

Start: 2m right of E, before arete.

25
Sport 9m
33 Bonza

Up the pleasant crack

Start: Corner crack

16
Unknown 10m
34 Tangerine Canard

Up the vertical edges. 3 new BR's 2 old BRs. BB

Start: 2m right of SP

16
Sport 10m , 3
35 Dysphemism

No need to sugar coat it - hard. Up the overhanging pocketed wall to the thin diagonal crack in the blank wall. Two manky BR's well past their use-by.

Start: Marked

25
Unknown 7m , 2
36 Buxom

Up the steep pocketed wall and over the rounded buxom arete.

2BR

Start: Start marked, 3m right of SM

22
Sport 10m
37 Cravin Sarah

Up the pocketed wall. 2 SS BR. Double SS BB.

Start: 100m Right (East) of TC at the highest part of the wall.

16
Sport 10m

1.3. Fosscrag 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.234777, -33.670217

Description:

A small cliff. The track along the base is overgrown so it is obviously not popular.

Approach:

From the junction of Mona Vale Road and McCarrs Creek Road head North for about 1.5km until you see the obvious cliffline on the right. Park in the small area on the right and follow a faint track up the gully separating the left and right clifflines. The four bolted routes are on the right.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Basket Case

5m left of Wringer at broken slab.

FA: Craig Martin, Chuck, 1985

21
Mixed 15m , 1
2 Wringer

5m left of Bikkies.

FA: Craig Martin, Chuck, 1985

17
Trad 12m
3 Bikkies

Up the obvious crack.

FA: Chuck, Craig Martin, 1985

13
Trad 10m
4 * Why the Big Foss

Up Bikkies for 3m then traverse right under roof. Up to roof and traverse left along break then up.

FA: Craig Martin, SID, Chuck, 1985

19
Mixed 15m , 1

1.4. Narrabeen 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.254952, -33.716828

Approach:© (mjw)

200m West of the track to 'Narrabeen' 'Slabs', on the South side of the road.

1.4.1. Pootang Crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.253660, -33.720334

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Caitlin Sam

Start: At left end of crag. Hard wall then through roof.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 1987

25
Sport 10m , 5
2 * Is This Climb My Wife?

Start: 2m right of Caitlin Sam. Wall then through harder roof.

FA: Leonard Coyne, 1987

26
Sport 10m , 4
3 ** Catherine Gockley

Start: 4m right of ISCmW. Up and through roofs.

FA: Leonard Coyne, 1987

27
Sport 10m , 4

1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side 37 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport,Trad and ?

Long/Lat: 151.254890, -33.718151

Approach:

From Wakehurst Parkway, go to the East end of the fence, and climb over. Walk 10m or so along the flat, and following the rock line, before walking up hill to the crag.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Bloggs Eliminate

Tree to overhang and scoop!

Start: 28m left of the track.

12
Trad 10m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Escape climb but I'm already at the track!

2 Ready, Set, Go!

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

4
Trad 8m
Matt Webster 8 years ago

Access up the cliff, dude!

Damien Haines 9 years ago

Escape climb but I'm already at the track!

3 * Rob's Arete
23
Unknown
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
4 PL/LD

Good looking face but looks harder than 22.

Shared lower off with Flack.

Start: Start 2m L of Flack.

22
Sport 10m , 3
5 Flack

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

17
Sport 10m , 3
Vanessa Wills 4 months ago

A bit stout for grade

Adrian Kladnig 4 months ago

Well, since I buggered my knee a couple of weeks ago on Clocks, this is the only lead that I felt...

6 Seedy Saturday

Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet.

18
Trad 8m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Not too bad

7 Fowlgrowlla

Flakes.

Start: 2m right.

18
Trad 8m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Was runout in the old days

8 Strange Like Norman

Start: 5m right again. Has bolts!

21
Trad 8m
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
9 Apyla

Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete.

22
Sport 6m
10 Areeba

Start: As for Apyla but straight up past an RB and rusty carrot.

19
Sport 7m
11 Keg's Korner

Start: Corner!

13
Trad 7m
12 Bedrock

Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts.

18
Trad 7m
13 Lido Man

Straight up over bulge and up seam.

Start: 1m left of Jammin' Measles

FA: Daniel Webster, Dale Tweedie,

21
Sport 12m , 4
Sam May 4 months ago

Dodgy off the log (stick clip next time!), and spider webs need a brushing! Good layback.

Vanessa Wills 4 months ago

The odd good move. The start sucks off the star.

14 Jammin' Measles

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

17
Trad 10m
15 Unfair Dismissal

Step right and up through scoop and wall to double U bolt rap anchor. Fixed sling and 3RBs en route (take care clipping the 3rd RB).

Start: Start: As for JM.

FA: Dale Tweedie, Daniel Webster,

20
Sport 12m , 3
David O'Donnell 6 years ago

it will definately be an unfair dismissal when the bulge with the sling on it gives way!

Lauren Chandler 7 years ago

Definatley not the Mountains

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
16 Ms Wilkins

A funky crux, all U bolts now

Start: 15m right of JM.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

24
Sport 15m
17 ** Technorabble

Obvious. Follow bolts!

Start: 2m right of previous, 4m left of corner.

23
Sport 15m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Very enjoyable

Will Monks 15 years ago

Summer heat and humidity make it harder

18 * Technorabble Variant

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right above the FH, clip it at full stretch to your left then go straight up.

20
Sport 15m
Neil Monteith 4 weeks ago

I think I did a kind of hybrid of this route and the original - good sustained pumpy climbing. Ne...

Heath McCrossin 9 years ago

not worth two stars but not bad

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
19 Worthless Cracklines

Start: Corner.

18
Trad 15m
20 ** Big Tick

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

26
Sport 15m , 4
Heath McCrossin 9 years ago

thin

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
21 ** Image Intensifier

Start: To the right and below Big Tick.

FA: Mikl,

24
Sport 15m , 5
22 ** Slap and Tickle

Up and right, right to arete and up.

Start: As for Image Intensifier.

FA: Mikl,

24
Sport 15m , 4
Steve 14 years ago

2nd shot without the chipped hold.

23 * Pickaxe

Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle.

FA: Mikl,

22
Sport 15m
David O'Donnell 6 years ago

kept me honest!

24 * Relax

Start: Right of Pickaxe.

FA: Mikl,

23
Sport 15m
Chris Bentham 7 years ago

that stupid last draw cost me the o/s.... but i fix it, 3 extra draws later, and half a roll of t...

Lauren Chandler 7 years ago

Got this 2nd shot, which I was really happy about. Rather bouldery which isn't my style and a lit...

25 * Smilax

Start: As for FHP (corner) then left and over lip and up.

23
Sport 15m
26 FHP

Start: Corner/Crack.

19
Trad 10m
Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

Quite good really. Good Pro

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
27 Self Saucing Sandbag

Mmmn!

Start: 2m left of Tilt. Weird Ring Bolts - looks like someones being shopping at Bunnings!

FA: Giles Bradbury,

25
Sport 15m
28 *** Tilt

One of the best routes in Sydney! New bolts.

Start: Short wall 10m right of FHP.

22
Sport 15m
Vanessa Wills 4 months ago

I think this was it- the lip of the roof is hard to reach

Lee McDougall 7 months ago

Pulled on last draw and rested. Really fun climb.

29 * BRT
28
Trad 15m
30 *** Full Tilt

Do this!

Start: 2m right of Tilt.

26
Sport 15m
JJ 8 years ago

1 rest again, hard to clip 3rd, rest OK29/5/04:1 rest, next time.

Steve 17 years ago

Great moves. 1st 26

31 * Wolfy and the Scientist

Start: Right of FT.

25
Sport 12m
32 Dancing on Ceilings

Start: As for W&TS then right into SP.

24
Sport 12m
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
33 * I Wanna be an Airborne Ranger

Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt.

21
Sport 15m , 6
JJ 8 years ago

Bodgey carrots, very contrieved & hard.

34 ** Septic Penguins

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious.

Rap off the dead tree at top or lower off the dodgy sling. Could do with lower offs.

FA: Mikl,

21
Sport 12m , 5
Neil Monteith 4 weeks ago

Repeat. The perfect little sport pumper, and the only thing dry at Narabean today. 2 laps. Needs ...

Sam May 4 months ago

Hard pull off the ground, then blast. (Yes, the crappy rusted steely and sling up the top are my ...

35 ** The Old Man of Heave

Start: Bulging crack 1m right of Septic Penguins and straight up past hangers. Keep going up the crack and you get Crack Man Fever.

24
Sport 20m
36 Crack Man Fever

Start: As for The Old Man of Heave then step right and up final crack.

FA: Mikl,

21
Trad 16m
37 ** Pat the Pig
22
Sport 15m

1.4.3. Slabs 38 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport,Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.259174, -33.714044

Description:

As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.

Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.

Climate / Conditions

The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.

The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present.

The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)

Getting There

The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Son of a Bad Man

Start below obvious flake at the very left hand end of the slabs. The first route you see as the access track hits the crag.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2005

24
Sport 12m , 4
Matt Webster 7 years ago

Still a bit sandy in some points, and reachy

Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

1st Ascent 17/6/05. Old abandoned project now complete (the dodgy pocket is not my work!)

2 * Hampsters

2m right of Son of a Bad Man. A great and varied slab.

FA: Mikl, 1980

23
Sport 15m , 3
JJ 8 years ago

Slipped @ start on mantle, 2nd go.

Chris Bentham 9 years ago

great move, a bit sandy, just stuff up my footwork in the middle!

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
3 Some Girls Wander By Mistake

Start as for Kiosks. Step left as per Kiosks. Continue left then directly up via 2 rings and large pocket.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

22
Sport 14m , 4
Sean Barnes 9 months ago

3rd of the common starting climbs.... Nothing too special - Kiosks is the pick of the bunch

Leigh Wells 6 years ago

Hard Move off the slab onto the face - Next Time!

4 Kiosks

Jump up on flake/slab to start and clip first RB and crux. Step left at second RB and continue straight up left of seam past 2 RB's and a Double RB Lower off

FA: Mike Law, 1980

22
Sport 12m , 3
Sean Barnes 9 months ago

Came back for revenge. Finally nailed it after working that bloody starting crux for about 15min!

Sean Barnes 1 years ago

Couldn't get off the ramp past the crux at the first ringbolt, but definately drops some grades a...

5 * Show us your ticks

Start as for 'Kiosks' The most sustained of all 'Kiosks' variants. After crux at start, continue straight up through line of 3 RBs to Double RB lower off.

FA: Craig Dungey, 2001

22
Sport 10m , 3
Sean Barnes 9 months ago

After just doing Kiosks, muscle recall the crux start and then straight forward after that... get...

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Only climb on the slab that wasn't seeping. Crux at first RB and relatively easier after that. Ni...

6 * Elmo Needs Some Air

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

FA: Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans, 2004

23
Mixed 12m , 1
Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

Tough move to pleasant wall. 1.5, 3 / 3.5 FR for wall above bolt

7 Iron Chef

Start 1m left of Into The Void at seam.

Desperate slabbing following the left hand line of a smorgasbord of carrots, fixed hangers and rings.

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

23
Sport 13m , 5
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

Fricken hard Chris! Whats your shoe rubber made of?

David O'Donnell 7 years ago

dam slab

8 Frantic

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus, 2002

21
Sport 15m , 4
Sam May 4 months ago

Dunno how people find this easy, for me it's shockingly hard, contrived, blank and dirty. Must be...

Sean 5 months ago

Ascent through to last anchor, but unable to make dyno through crux

9 * Into the Void

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots.

FA: Mikl, 1980

19
Sport 20m , 4
Simon Miller 7 months ago

Blew crux again beta sorted this time though

Simon Miller 8 months ago

Good fun climb. Blew the crux and on sight attempt. It'll go next time

10 Mum's the Word

Second pitch of Into The Void. 3m right, onto clean wall and up.

FA: Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain, 1999

16
Trad 10m
Rod Smith 2 years ago

Mileage. With George and Brett.

Rod Smith 5 years ago

SRC trip.

11 For the Good of the Claws

4m right of Into The Void. Thin. Up to new ring, then trend left to finish up Into The Void.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24
Sport 20m
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
12 * Manic

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain, 2001

18
Sport 17m , 4
Scott Lacey 5 months ago

Must be the 5th or 6th time I've done this route, still a good fun slab with a few balancy moves ...

Ranger Dave 6 months ago

A year and a half between drinks on this climb - Why oh why did I wait to so to come back. Awesom...

13 Ag Science

1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

16
Sport 18m , 4
Sean 5 months ago

Clean, but used crack to right

Brendon Flanagan 6 months ago

Excellent climb! Worth the star. Balancy and small commiting moves.

14 ** The Appliance of Domestic Science

Climb directly up the thin natural seam in the middle of the slab using the bolts on Ag Science for protection.

Set up protection for the first move by using the first bolt of Ag Science then make a strenuous move into the bottom of the thin seam.

Up the seam to an obvious chicken head at 3/4 height.

Make a couple of reachy final moves over the chicken head to a good horizontal finger slot in the final headwall and then traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk

FA: Michael Combley, James Carpenter, 2012

17
Sport 15m , 4
15 Technical Short Talk

Start is marked TST.

Up to BR then left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to DRB lower off.

FA: Mikl, 1980

18
Sport 16m , 3
Adrian Kladnig 4 months ago

Lots of dicking around when you can't high step!!!

Simon Miller 6 months ago

straight forward after the crux move

16 Kicks
20
Sport 15m
Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Graded 18 on Sydney Rockies, down from 20 on this site. I would even go as far to say that it cou...

Rod Smith 4 years ago

With Niall

17 Taranesque
20
Sport 12m , 3
Sean Barnes 1 years ago

Good climb, confusion with Kicks, and watch out for the high first bolt.

Phil Brian 2 years ago

No way it's a 20...

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
18 Common Origin

Start is marked CO.

Up slight ramp to hole, then up wall past cams and 2 BR's to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face. Caution with slight rope drag.

FA: Craig Martin, John Davis, 1982

16
Mixed 15m , 2
Brendon Flanagan 4 months ago

fun climb but take a more direct start for more of a challenge. From the hole make your move to t...

Sean 5 months ago

Great route, look forward to doing it clean

19 Wimples

Start on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slabs.

A steep second pitch to Common Origin. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24
Sport 10m , 3
20 * Dimples

Start as for Wimples.

Head right across the scoop and finish up the right side of the arete with no pro. Groundfall potential.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1998

21 X
Sport 15m
Steve 15 years ago

Start as for Wimples and clip dodgy bolts - then across scoop and climb right-side of arete (no g...

21 Common Sense

Marked HTS. 3m right of Common Origin. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.

17
Mixed 12m , 2
Rod Smith 5 years ago

SRC trip.

Rod Smith 7 years ago

Crimpy start. Sport/Trad. (2 bolts).

22 TPI
15
Unknown 10m
John Thirlwell 3 years ago

rusty BR on way (no need to use - take Friends for the crack instead)

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Trivial

23 Question Marks
14
Unknown 7m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

Bit dirty

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
24 A

Down below 'Common Origin' Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs to a double BB on top. Corner can be slippery when wet

18
Sport 10m , 4
Fernando Vidal 11 days ago

nice line, watch out for leeches.

Scott Lacey 5 months ago

Good fun climb

25 * Quick fang down the parkway

4m Right of 'A' Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall for final RB. Belay as for 'A'

FA: Chris Yeomans & Duane Maxwell, 2003

18
Sport 10m , 4
Fernando Vidal 6 days ago

lovely, a bit short, but nice moves.

Fernando Vidal 11 days ago

lovely, a bit short, but nice moves.

26 Trickles

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway' and belay as for 'A'

FA: Mike Law, 1980

21
Sport 10m , 4
Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Which way does this climb go, up first then right (less than 21) or right first then up (harder t...

Eduardo Estigoni 3 years ago

2nd 21 in a day!

27 Communal Nose

8m right of Trickles. Pleasant right arete of the block.

FA: Craig Martin, Russ Davis, 1992

9 X
Trad 20m
Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

good slabbing

28 * Lunatic
18
Sport 19m
Greg 2 weeks ago

Very good for beginners

Za 5 months ago

Fun

29 * Fat, Sallow and Drunk

3m right of Lunatic. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree and block above.

FA: Mikl, 1980

24
Sport 20m , 5
Cameron Shorter 3 months ago

Completed first half of the climb, (about an 18 or 19), but couldn't get the last bit.

Sean Barnes 9 months ago

Couldn't get this one. First 2/3rds leaves you leaving when this 24 becomes a 24 - but the top d...

30 * Muscoviet Mosquito

FA: Chris Yeomans, 2004

18
Sport 15m
Greg 2 weeks ago

Very good for beginners

Cameron Shorter 5 months ago

Climbed with Max and Anthia.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
31 Colonial Mentality
8
Trad 10m
Sam May 4 months ago

Access to top of crag.

Cameron Shorter 6 months ago

Bec very kindly ran a top rope for us (around the big tree at the top), I then climbed (with a 5k...

32 Born Under Lunges
18
Sport 12m
Brendon Flanagan 6 months ago

Two finger pockets at the last draw, interesting to use both at the same time, slightly committin...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

awesome 2nd clip move - defines the climb.

33 B

Start marked '20'.

Up short wall then swing left to nose and up airy thin head wall.

21
Sport 18m , 7
Tim O'Mahony 3 years ago

pumpy overhanging fun

JJ 8 years ago

A little contrivied

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
34 ** C

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break. Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.

18
Sport 8m
Chantelle bryson 10 weeks ago

First overhang, so proud.

Johannes 3 months ago

Fun roof. Nice jugs but still quite pumpy. Was actually my second ascent.

35 Unfair Dismissal

Start as for C then continue up vertical face and arete to top. Anchors are set back 2m.

20
Sport 15m
Sam May 4 months ago

Heaps of easy fun roof climbing! Should be done more. Top holds worth a brush. To clean, rap off ...

Andrew Ingles 8 years ago

Zero marks for style... nice extension when you're pumped!

36 * Surfboard

Start 2m right of C.

Up past the dodgy looking surfboard with fixed slings.

Lower off from fixed biner or chain on ledge higher up.

24
Sport 15m , 4
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

Quite straightforward after the first move. Must do more bouldering

Stephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago

great first move! the rest isnt bad.

37 Sweet Mercury

The first crack 5m right of the cave.

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

15
Trad 12m
38 * Shivering Jemmy

Thin crack 10m right of Sweet Mercury.

Lower offs.

FA: Craig Martin, SID, 1984

17
Trad 20m
Sam May 4 months ago

I assume this is the crack at the right hand end of the cave where the track ends? A great trad o...

Damien Haines 9 years ago

Gardening??

1.4.4. The Den 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Den Dyno
V7
Boulder
2 Kyles Rule
V6
Boulder
3 Sloper traverse
V8
Boulder
4 The Burn
V11
Boulder
5 Romper Stomper
V9
Boulder
Daniel da Silva 5 years ago

cool, was keen to get back on this one

6 Fight Club
V10
Boulder
7 Tyler Derdan
V12
Boulder
8 Hi Sylv
V7
Boulder
Daniel da Silva 5 years ago

very nice indeed, cool moves through the scoop

9 Un-named
V5
Boulder
eddie 6 months ago

first time to the den, amazing!!!

Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

Come back problem. good fun

10 Un-named Traverse
V6
Boulder
Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

Fun, short and sweet kind of campus problem

1.4.5. Oxford Falls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Top Rope
Description:

Behind the waterfall! Climbing here may be currently banned.

Access Issues:

Climbing here may be currently banned. Park at the gate over the waterfall crossing walk to the waterfall.

Approach:

Rap bolts on the lower ledge on the right hand side (facing down the waterfall). Or you can walk around to the right.

Ethic:

Traditional Climbing with limited fixed protection. Still under development. Please do not bolt here.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Snakes on the vertical plane

Up the right trending diagonal line to the ledge. Traverse the easy ledge to the pile of blocks on the left (Two snakes were encountred on the first ascent) . Belay from here. Straight up through slabs (litle gear for first 3 m's but easy climbing) to top out near abseil bolts. Not a lot of gear on the first pitch and you will need micro cams for what is there.

FA: James Bultitude, Sam May, 2012

16
Trad 25m
James 8 months ago

Up past very little(both small and not a lot!) gear and some tricky moves to the ledge, fumbling ...

2 Scribbles

Best escape route we tried. Scramble up to the left of the cave for a few metres, to the cleanest-looking blocky ramp. Up. Cams in breaks and a nut or two. Slopey top-out.

FA: Sam May, James Bultitude,

9
Trad 12m

1.5. Elanora Heights 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.268691, -33.704984

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 A (Project)
?
Unknown 12m
2 B
23
Sport 10m
3 C (Project)
?(S)
Sport 18m
4 D

FA: Jason's Project,

26
Sport 12m
5 * Left Wing

FA: Steve Kelly,

25
Unknown 12m
Steve 14 years ago

Takes right-trending seam just left of bolted face - leading to boulder problem in roof. Basicall...

6 E
?(S)
Sport 15m
7 F
?(S)
Sport 10m
8 G (Project)
?(S)
Sport 13m
9 H (Project)
?(S)
Sport 12m
10 I
26
Sport 16m
11 J
?(S)
Sport 15m
12 K
24
Sport 15m
Steve 16 years ago

Excellent route with a cool dyno mid-way up. Trust that this is the same line?

13 L
26
Sport 15m
14 ** Wake Up, Time to Fly

FA: Jason Rutter,

24
Sport 17m
Steve 14 years ago

Climb is actually called 'Wake Up, Time to Fly' - put up by Jason Rutter in 1996

15 N (Project)
?(S)
Sport 18m
16 O (Project)
?(S)
Sport 12m
17 P (Project)
?(S)
Sport 13m
18 Q
27
Sport 13m
19 R
?(S)
Sport 12m
20 S
?(S)
Sport 12m
21 T
?(S)
Sport 10m

1.6. Whale Beach 13 routes in Area

Summary:
?,Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.331894, -33.610509

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Suck Face With a Jellyfish
21
Unknown 15m
2 Hey, Buster
22
Unknown 15m
3 East Ridge
17
Sport 18m
4 Crimson Streams
17
Unknown 15m
5 A
20
Unknown 15m
6 Pull Up the Roots
18
Unknown 20m
7 * Self Deception
19
Unknown 20m
8 Double Release
17
Unknown 20m
9 * Negotiable Fixation
20
Sport 8m
10 Anorak Man
17
Unknown 7m
11 * Madness
21
Unknown 40m
12 B
?
Unknown
13 The Pendulum
19 M1
Aid 40m

1.7. Barrenjoey 190 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.328318, -33.580298

Description:

A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Access Issues:

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:

From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block.

Ethic:

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.326143, -33.580905

Description:© (secretary)

Lighthouse track wall is on a flat section of the signposted four-wheel-drive track leading to the lighthouse, about 200m up the hill.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Inverted Fuzzy Pumper

2m left of H.

Desperate start to lip (manky BR), delicate wall past 2 BRs to ledge. Bulges, right to overhang and up.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

22
Trad 15m
2 Hackitt

Obvious cliff splitting crack.

Trench warfare to start, then pleasantly up the crack to the cave. Step left over roof (take care with loose rock) and up pleasant headwall. Well protected.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

13
Trad 15m
Tim Harris 17 years ago

good exposed climbing, 2nd Linton Harris

3 Breakslaps

Start: Middle of wall 5m right of IFP.

  1. 20m (19) Up wall to small breaks for friends. BB and friends in cave.

  2. 7m (19) (Crux) Clip BRs on right side floor of cave and place friends in roof flake. Out to BR on lip and slap up to BB and Bushes.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

19
Trad 20m
4 Possum Taunter

7m right of B below crack 5m up.

Up crack to the "possum cave", step right and up short offwidth.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

15
Trad 15m
Will Monks 14 years ago

Worth a star

5 * And Then the Fun Starts

Incorrectly marked "PT". 20m right of PT at twin cracks.

Steeply out of alcove and up twin cracks. Thought provoking crux over roof to lovely headwall. Take small to mid size cams.

FA: Roy Chick, Ian Strut, 1984

15
Trad 20m

1.7.2. Customs House Rocks 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Boulder and Aid
Description:© (secretary)

A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, head right and onto the lighthouse track. About 4m after the signpost for the old Customs House site, a track heads right off the track and leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 A

Up the manky old bolt ladder.

M1
Aid 15m
2 Remaining Shame

No protection after the ledge.

Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

16 R
Trad 20m
3 Thresher's Flail

Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney.

Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

12
Trad 18m
4 Pugnatious Puke

Good jams and protection.

Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

15
Trad 14m
5 Oedipus Complex

Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete.

Start: Right of PP.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

12
Trad 10m
6 Cockroach Crack

Start on ledge right of OC.

Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing.

FA: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery, Craig B. Martin, 1982

9
Trad 8m
7 Septic Enigma

Offwidth right of CC

12
Boulder 4m
8 Half Pipe

Ramp right of SE.

12
Boulder 4m

1.7.3. Southwest 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.323751, -33.580352

Approach:© (secretary)

Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the L side of sand dues past a house, a red shed and a large boulder. Continues along rocky shore to track beside another two houses. Walk along this from approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs. The trail hits the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents

Routes are ordered from Right to Left. The trail meets the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

1 Evil Spuds

The overhang.

14
Trad 6m
2 Gollum's Grope

The offwidth.

12
Trad 4m
3 Pyroclean

The chimney.

7
Unknown 4m
4 Zodiac's Pure Vegetables

10m right of Haircut.

Up the wall and seam.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984

22
Unknown 8m
5 Haircut

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

The offwidth.

13
Boulder 4m
6 Solipsism

The arete.

13
Boulder 4m
7 Manteau

The wall.

12
Boulder 4m
8 Speleolie

The crack.

9
Boulder 4m
9 Feetus Position

The offwidth.

9
Boulder 4m
10 Exit Tortons

3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

5
Trad 13m
Sam May 4 months ago

Guide is confusing up this end. Top-rope access.

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

descent route

11 Albatross

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

14
Trad 15m
Damien Haines 17 years ago

Dirty

12 Frog's Fling

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

17
Unknown 13m
Damien Haines 17 years ago

Tough start to easy finish

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
13 K9

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

FA: T. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

17
Trad 13m
Cameron Shorter 4 months ago

Set up a top rope using slings around 2 boulders above. I cheated on this route by chimneying the...

Rod Smith 2 years ago

Tough, slightly overhung, flaring finger crack... Trad with Big J.

14 Ratbite

The obvious corner 2m right of WG.

FA: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones, 1983

11
Unknown 18m
15 * Wild Gravity

Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake

Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983

21
Mixed 12m , 3
Rod Smith 2 years ago

Fell near top on first attempt. Pulled rope and cleaned it. Sport, crimpy.

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Sustained and thin all the way up the first wall.

16 Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart

1.5m right of PWCB.

Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.

FA: Mike Law, Craig B. Martin, 1985

22
Sport 7m
Damien Haines 17 years ago

Very contrived start to PWCB

17 * Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

16
Mixed 20m , 3
Cameron Shorter 4 months ago

We used the double eye rings at the top for top rope. Nice climb, and great view of Pittwater.

Stephen Pope 5 months ago

Nice jugs and layback

18 ** Cranky

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

20
Sport 7m
Rod Smith 2 years ago

Short and fun! With Jim

Nathan Bolton 5 years ago

sandy

19 A (Open project)

The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.

25
Unknown 8m
20 Millie

Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel'

10
Unknown 11m
21 Jezebel

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

9
Mixed 11m , 2
Matt Short 6 weeks ago

Nice positive holds

Stephen Pope 5 months ago

Scary up top on wierd sloper pocket thing and dodgy looking carrot

22 Two Steps Forward

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

13
Mixed 20m , 1
Stephen Pope 5 months ago

Good

Nick Clow 1 years ago

OS

23 Carrie Bradshaw

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2003

14
Sport 12m , 3
John Thirlwell 3 years ago

just another 14 on that section

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

small cams needed for crack lower down

24 Starboard Barnacles

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

14
Sport 20m
Scott 3 years ago

Worth it

Caitlin Hurley 5 years ago

Nice little warm up route to start the day

25 Elf Town

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

14 R
Trad 20m
Rod Smith 3 years ago

With Enn. Sport-Trad.

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

bit sparsely protected in places!

26 Judgement Day

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

14
Trad 20m
Sam May 4 months ago

Underrated, should be climbed more.

Rod Smith 2 years ago

With Jim.

27 * Enterprise

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

18
Trad 25m
James 1 years ago

Was gonna bail then i discovered i still had the cam i needed on the back of my harness. Had to ...

Nathan Bolton 5 years ago

soft

28 * Enterprise Variant

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin, 1983

17
Mixed 15m , 4
Nick Clow 1 years ago

OS

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Very thin start then easy sustained climbing. The variant finish is much easier than E, but is m...

29 * Crack of Dawn

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

15
Trad 20m
Simon Miller 5 weeks ago

Good fun climbing and plugging in some gear

Matt Short 6 weeks ago

Provides some good jamming practice.

The following routes are all to the Left of where the trail meets the cliff.

30 Arachibutyrophobia

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

FA: Peter Ward, 1986

19
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 6 years ago

Tough from the very beginning to the second bolt. Super fingery and unprotected start.

Niall Doherty 7 years ago

Good thin moves (grade 20) at start, tricky first clip, one more move then easy.

31 ** Liquid Insanity

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

FA: Glenn Robbins,

18
Sport 20m
Cameron Shorter 4 months ago

Nice climb. I hope to climb it one day without slipping off.

Nick Clow 2 years ago

A little committing (as an onsight solo) just above the second bolt.

32 ** Marsupial Smearer

A nice variation on 'Liquid Insanity'.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'.

Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

FA: Captain Black,

18
Trad 20m
Alwyn Johnson 5 months ago

Foolishly took a rest at the first bolt

martin silk 3 years ago

Wet day but just about climbable. Final section over bulge difficult for me. 6 BB's on climb. Pos...

33 * I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant

Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.

18
Mixed 18m , 5
Rod Smith 8 years ago

Do it for the overhanging finish.

D Parsons 8 years ago

desperate to the final bolt!

34 * I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For

A nice variation on 'Marsupial Smearer'.

Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m Left of 'Marsupial Smearer'.

As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.

20
Trad 22m
Rod Smith 4 years ago

Sport-trad. With Gus.

Rod Smith 4 years ago

With Gus. Sport-trad.

35 * Domino

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

14
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 3 years ago

Bring some big pro and wedge yourself in

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

not awesome

36 Tropico

Marked "AT". 2m left of D.

Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

15
Trad 20m
James 1 years ago

Sling the tree, hope that will hold, next break is flaring climb up to bout the six metre mark an...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

sparse pro to halfway!

37 * Cramp Ons

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

17 R
Trad 20m
Sam May 4 months ago

Did not clean up after more ascents. Sketchy sandy choss with crap gear. Bailed off right to Trop...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

thin start, pro's ok

38 Wild Ride

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

16
Trad 18m
Simon Miller 5 weeks ago

Really enjoyed this one, enough gear to be had and nice to belay your partner up from the top.

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

somewhat wild, but no riding.

39 * Hang Over

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

9
Trad 12m
James 1 years ago

One move wonder

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

Nice bulges - was very wet, so made me think twice

40 Womb To Tomb

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

17
Trad 12m
41 * Cosmic Ecology

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

15
Trad 12m
Matt Short 6 weeks ago

Interesting moves around the overhang

Sam May 4 months ago

Cool 3D chimney.

42 Cosmic Ecology Variant Start

1m left of CE. Up to join CE.

FA: Craig D. Martin,

15
Unknown 5m
43 ** Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics

A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!).

Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1983

17
Trad 12m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

A little chossy and unclimbed - but it's still a better route than CE.

44 Ways Of Our Lives

Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam.

Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.

FA: Mike Meyers, David Hains, 1984

22
Trad 15m
45 ** Squid Vicious

As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").

FA: Mike Meyers, M. Toakley, 1983

20
Trad 12m
46 * Computer Sox

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

14
Trad 7m
Rod Smith 3 years ago

OK arete and wall. Trad.

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Very chossy - and not worth a star

47 ** Cythaul Haul

Crack left of CS.

10
Trad 12m
Brett W 2 years ago

a bit short. rings at the back of the scrubby top out

Phil Ward 6 years ago

A pleasant climb - route is nice and clean compared to other similar low grades.

48 * Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

14
Mixed 6m , 1
Rod Smith 3 years ago

Waste of time. With Enn and Stewart. Trad-sport.

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Unprotected all the way to the bolt before the top-out. The microcam placement the guide mention...

49 ** Sacrilege

The off-width boulder problem.

12
Boulder 4m
50 The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again

Start below arete, 1m left of S.

Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

19
Trad 10m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

The guide talks about a ripped hold, but I don't see how this could get any easier for a 19.

Rod Smith 5 years ago

Clean. 2nd shot

51 Benign

4m left of tPBSA.

Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

19
Sport 10m
Lee McDougall 1 years ago

20??? Really? even if I mistook this for the variant I still think its easier than a 16

Rod Smith 3 years ago

One-move wonder. With George and Enmoore. Sport.

52 Benign Variant Finish

As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

16
Sport 10m
Rod Smith 2 years ago

With Jim.

Phil Ward 6 years ago

Fingery to start - greasy after rain.

53 Mike's Cop-out

Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs.

Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT.

10
Trad 8m
54 * Been There, Done That

Chimney left of B.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

7
Trad 10m
Elliot Braham 9 years ago

Boring chimney

55 ** Central Pillar of Mordor

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

19
Trad 20m
John Thirlwell 3 years ago

v thin in parts, bolts too far apart to confidently lead at this stage

Phil Ward 3 years ago

The cam placement mentioned in the guide looked pretty flakey to me, which is a great pity becaus...

56 Orgasmic

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

11
Trad 25m
Sam May 4 months ago

Chimney fun.

Rod Smith 3 years ago

With Enn, Trad.

57 * Sand Syringe

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

FA: Craig B. Martin, N. Moran, 1984

18
Trad 20m
Rod Smith 2 years ago

Another sustained slab/wall. Trad. The dinner plate is so wide that slinging creates a death tria...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

nice moves

58 * Not Your Average Cab Sav

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

19
Trad 20m
Sam May 4 months ago

Continuous climbing, definitely well worth doing. A bit too much for a warm down at the end of th...

James 1 years ago

Thin, would be an awesome lead.

59 * Pledge a Legend

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

14
Trad 16m
John Thirlwell 3 years ago

easier than last time!

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

major struggle with my head!! got there in the end.

60 Borcat Blues

2m left of PAL.

Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

18
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 3 years ago

Flared, sandy breaks make for some dubious cam placements - you're happier when you clip those bo...

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

dirty and scary in the sun

61 Tangerine Dream

2m left of BB.

Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

16
Trad 15m
Phil Ward 3 years ago

Brain-shrinkingly large run-out before the bolt

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

huge run out from last piece of pro up to BR near top - I'd be happy to never lead this again

62 * Cobwebs

2m left of TD.

Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD

FA: Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos, 1986

18
Trad 15m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Hand jams in the breaks and thin on the face

Rod Smith 6 years ago

Seemed to be cobweb-free. Better than Borcat Blues. With Big John. Trad (1 bolt).

63 * Celluloid Heroes

8m left of C.

Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

10
Trad 10m
Phil Ward 3 years ago

Easy to stray off route - and that makes things much harder!

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

Seemed much harder than a 10 after 2 days of climbing!

64 Nightingale

Start: The easy chimney left of CH.

A quick ascent or decent route.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

7
Trad 10m
Tim Harris 17 years ago

easy chimney, waste of time, 2nd Fiona Ide

65 * Pox Travels Fast

Just left of N.

Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin,

16
Trad 15m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Run out at the top, but it's pretty easy up there

Rod Smith 5 years ago

Hidden little climb. Dirty rock but new bolts. Needs cams and wires.

66 ** Pinnacle of Peril

Arete left of PTF.

Straight up exposed and unprotected arete

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team,

15
Trad 22m
67 * Super Exciting Xylophone

Start: 2m left of PP.

Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

21
Trad 25m
John Thirlwell 3 years ago

Start is very tricky - footholds are now smoother than they would have been - once over the roofl...

Chad Harrison 10 years ago

Would get 3 stars with a clean!

68 Intoxicating Liquor

Left of SEX.

Up crack then up chimney above that.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

9
Trad 20m
Sandy Lamond 6 years ago

A good climb for the inexperienced leader.

Rod Smith 8 years ago

Only if you're desperate for crack

69 * Little Plaything

1m left of IL.

Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

19
Trad 16m
Rod Smith 10 months ago

Start is a thin.. Rest is slabby and dirty with enough gear to make it intetesting. With Enmoore....

Nick Clow 2 years ago

OS, bouldery start then 15ish. Presently graded 19 in P Monks's guide

70 * Anti Scuttler

Very shallow corner left of LP.

A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.

FA: Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin, 1982

18
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Thin and slabby - run out and desperate at times. This route is 18 not 15 as it says here!

Rod Smith 6 years ago

NOT 13. Online guide says 18 which feels about right. Mega trouble for those leading grade 13. Trad.

71 * Sweet Heart

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

FA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar, 2003

22
Unknown 12m
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

hold broke first attempt. Do it before the flakes pull off

Rhonda Luhrs 6 years ago

Unable to reach what appears to be good holds near the top

72 * Facet

Left of AS.

Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

15
Trad 16m
Rod Smith 10 months ago

Well protected route. Looks offwidth but surprisingly offers face-style Pclimbing and good hand j...

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Not great for the arachnophobes!

73 Crack 'n' Up

Another wriggler!

Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

8
Trad 17m
Greg Scholtens 5 years ago

Not bad for an 8.

Sandy Lamond 6 years ago

Pretty average climb. Poor protection.

74 * Mescalito

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

19
Trad 12m
Sam May 4 months ago

Good! Watch swing for second up the top.

Phil Ward 2 years ago

A little run out at the bottom, but pro is good up top with cams between bolts.

75 Mode

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

FA: Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville, 2003

16
Sport 14m , 3
Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Slabby Funness

Nick Clow 2 years ago

OS, good line with technical climbing

76 * Abseil Wall

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

16
Trad 18m
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

quite OK gear despite the guidebook warning

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Crackalicious

77 Pan Pacific Wall

4m left of AW.

Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection.

16
Trad 16m
Simon Ellis 4 months ago

Seemed hard for the grade.

Rod Smith 4 years ago

With Gus. Sport-trad.

78 ** Long Line of Leanings

Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave.

Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Mike Law, 1985

19
Trad 15m
Leigh Wells 6 years ago

Dont cheat and stay right! :-) Go left past the bolt and grunt up.

Phil Ward 6 years ago

Great climb with interesting overhang start at cave. Get grunting!

79 Wrong Line of Learning

Start in left side of LLoL cave.

Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.

FA: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003

22
Unknown 15m
80 *** Pulse of Fools

5m left of LLL.

Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.

FA: Mike Law, 1985

25
Sport 12m
Sam May 4 months ago

Very cool and by far the best in this style on the Beaches. Hopefully get it next time when it is...

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Ahh, this was a hard climb, couldn't do the move after the third clip but great topout!!

81 Suer

Corner crack left of PoF

10
Trad 6m
82 Krill

The off-width boulder problem left of S.

13
Trad 6m
Phil Ward 6 years ago

Interesting move in middle - challenging for a 13.

Damien Haines 16 years ago

Not a lot of fun

83 * Ikon Direct

Where Ikon should have gone.

Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

19
Sport 10m
Sam May 4 months ago

My kind of style. Slopey slabby goodness, not a positive hold on it.

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Nice climb, bit of a soft touch!

84 Ikon

As for ID. Silly.

Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

17
Sport 10m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

This version is very silly - do Direct variant instead.

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

Mezz says...TR euro is not cool...

85 Ray's Moppy

Marked M, 10m left of I.

Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.

FA: Ray Haak, John Shaw, 2005

11
Trad 10m
Phil Ward 6 years ago

Easy climb that obviously doesn't get much traffic. Holds are a bit sandy.

86 Lips

FA: Jim Dickins/Sandra Parker,

11
Unknown 11m
Rod Smith 7 years ago

Take a portaledge and EPIRB.

1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,?
Description:© (secretary)

A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.

Approach:© (secretary)

On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Observatory

Stand on small ledge after bulge, place #6 rock and move off into space. Up crack.

Start: 5m right of 'Leon the Klepto Cat'.

15
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

The pro on this flaring rounded crack really isn't great - beware. Bailed and toproped instead -...

Niall Doherty 4 years ago

Desperate for the grade, awkward to place pro.

2 ** Leon the Klepto Cat

At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece.

Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1983

19
Trad 20m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Really tough traverse from cavelet to crack - well protected by a bolt though, so I think that wi...

3 * Tillies and Triangles

4m left of LtKC.

Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1984

23
Trad 10m
4 Orbs Dilated Glory

3m left of TaT.

Straight up wall. A good sunset spot.

FA: Craig B. Martin (solo),

12
Trad 13m
5 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart

2m left of ODG.

Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004

14
Unknown 9m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

An easy romp - perfect for beginner lead.

Niall Doherty 4 years ago

Nice lead at the grade.

6 Baby Steps

As for NSIMMF.

On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2005

10
Unknown 9m
Phil Ward 6 years ago

Really easy going - would be a good lead for a novice.

Niall Doherty 7 years ago

Easy first lead or solo!

7 More Tea Vicar?

Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS.

Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004

11
Trad 9m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Inadvertently soloed - dragging the rope up with me! Essentially a no-pro route.

Phil Ward 6 years ago

The climb is nothing to write home about - the view from the top is worth seeing.

1.7.5. Stranglers Corner 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (secretary)

Faces West - a summer's microwave. Good Rock

Approach:© (secretary)

A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock. It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Home Made Jamb

Textbook layaway jamb. If only it were longer!

10
Trad 7m
2 Seller's Pirate

Boulder Problem.

Start: 'The Crack'.

8
Trad 4m
3 Never a Frown

Boulder Problem.

Start: The wall.

13
Trad 4m
4 Inertia

Boulder Problem.

Start: The crack.

11
Trad 4m

1.7.6. North Palm Beach 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad,? and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.331080, -33.581361

Approach:© (secretary)

Up 4wd track to the lighthouse. Then right down various tracks, to reach the crags.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Stove Leg Crack

Boulder Problem.

Start: Off-width boulder problem.

7
Trad 5m
2 Concise Crack

Boulder Problem.

Start: Slab, then corner-crack.

8
Trad 6m
3 Thirteen Hex

Strenuous.

Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'.

17
Trad 13m
4 * Warp Factor Two

A very enjoyable excursion indeed.

Start: Right of CC.

18
Trad 17m
5 Shrubberies

Quite 'Steep'.

Start: Orange wall below large overhangin off-width left of 'Oggindeli'.

17
Trad 17m
6 Oggindeli

Veterinary delight.

Start: Short wall 4m left of TTP.

15
Trad 6m
7 Tartan Tomato Plant
19
Unknown 15m
8 ** Once in a Lifetime

Well-respected problem with some thin moves near the top. Craig Martin took a 10m ground-fall attempting the FA (without BRs). Silly man!

Start: On prominent arete near large boulders.

23
Trad 15m
9 SID's Supremacy

Overhang problem; second pitch of OL.

18
Trad 4m
10 Paw Antics

Some interesting moves-and falls, eh, Animal? Grabee rap rope burnee widle paws.

Start: Wall left of Frog\'s Anus.

  1. 12m (19) Past small break (Friend) and flared crack (small wire). BB.

  2. -m (-)

19
Trad 12m
11 Frog's Anus

No bad if dry.

Start: Crack in corner opposite large boulder paralle to track.

14
Trad 10m
12 Zany Wall

Fairly pleasant jaunt.

Start: 3m right of FA.

  1. 19m (12) UP wall to cave, over lip to ledge.

  2. 9m (12) Walk 4m right, then up corner and slab.

12
Trad 19m
13 * Return of the Pink Sausage

Sustained corner-crack.

Start: 3m right of ZW.

16
Trad 19m
14 * Babe

A three-star classic: deduct two start for the walk in.

Start: Corner right of RPS.

18
Trad 20m
15 Windward Sausage
9
Unknown 10m
16 Roomba Revisited

Boulder Problem.

Start: The arete to slabs.

6
Trad 10m
17 Roomba Revisited Direct

Boulder Problem.

Start: The bulge

14
Trad 10m
18 A Clean Break

Good, clean fun.

Start: Cracks left of 'Quarto Direct'.

16
Trad 8m
19 Quarto Direct

Balancy.

Start: 2m left of 'Quarto'

15
Trad 18m
20 Quarto

Up slab to ledge, left and up short corner.

Start: 40m right of ZW.

10
Trad 20m
21 ** Space Vampires

Excellent. Protection, rock and moves are all good.

Start: 5m right of 'Quarto'.

18
Sport 15m
22 Eulogy
14
Unknown 22m
23 * Same as it Ever Was
22
Unknown 15m
24 * Systems of Romance
22
Unknown 15m
25 * Joker Hysterical Face
23
Unknown 15m
26 Roast Possum
13
Unknown 4m
27 Defiant Deflaration
16
Unknown 11m
28 Ode to an Orange
17
Unknown 15m
29 Stick It
18
Unknown 15m
30 Same Reality
17
Sport 15m
31 Plenty Enough
24
Sport 15m
32 Freck's Effort
8
Unknown 10m
33 ** The Holy Hour
18
Unknown 15m
34 ** Horse Latitudes
20
Unknown 15m
35 * Head Muscle
21
Unknown 15m
36 * Mirth Muscle
20
Sport 12m
37 Benji the Upholstered Bat
19
Sport 10m

1.7.7. Disorder Corners 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.330731, -33.579112

Description:© (secretary)

A small patch of good to excellent rock in amongst the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).

Unfortunately all of the fixed protection rotted millenia ago making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below the top of the cliff (the cliff is choss higher up).

Approach:© (secretary)

The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag and continue on past it and around the end of the headland. Ignore endless choss until you encounter a nice orange corner in excellent rock, near a large sloping boulder. You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Bluegrass

7m right of E.

Undercut and balancy to horizontal. Traverse right to arete and head straight up to manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985

20
Trad 15m
2 ** Prairie Home Companion

1.5m right of E.

Desperate moves up thin cracks past breaks. At third break move up and right to main break on wall. Move left to crack and up to ledge (manky BBs). Rap off.

FA: Giles Bradbury, Craig B. Martin, 1986

24
Trad 25m
3 ** Streets of the Long Voyage

2m right of E.

Up short crack and past breaks to obvious traverse line. Hard moves lead diagonally right through poorer rock (jugs) to arete. Up to ledge with manky double BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1985

21
Trad 25m
4 ** Conspiracy of Hope

Direct finish for SOTLV.

Up SOTLV to traverse line and blast straight up past 2 manky BRs to large break. Head diagonally right to ledge then downclimb arete for 8m to manky BBs. Rap off.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Giles Bradbury, 1986

22
Trad 15m
5 * Epic

The obvious book corner in the middle of the good rock.

Up the corner to manky BBs. Rap off. Protection looks a bit dubious (the corner looks fused).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

14
Trad 15m
Damien Haines 9 years ago

It's a very long walk

Steve 18 years ago

Would be better taking a rope! Very sandy. Not well travelled.

6 * Painless Destiny

Just left of E.

Up the wall (cams in breaks) to cave (manky BB). Rap off or traverse left and scramble down (scary!).

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983

18
Trad 15m

1.7.8. Palm Beach Boulders 37 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.324452, -33.595650

1.7.8.1. The North Boulder 24 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Mostly Boulder
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 1
V2
Boulder
2 2
V2
Boulder
Nick Clow 6 years ago

the excellent rising traverse from a sit-start

3 3
V3
Boulder
Nick Clow 6 years ago

straight-up from the sit

4 4a

R side of the arete via a long reach

V4
Boulder
Nick Clow 5 years ago

R side of the arete via a long reach

5 4
V2
Boulder
6 5
V1
Boulder
7 Traverse of E Face
Unknown
Nick Clow 2 years ago

From down-climb traverse L staying about 2 feet below top, finish on pedestal of prob 20

8 6
V0+
Boulder
9 7
V1
Boulder
10 8
V0-
Boulder
11 9
V0
Boulder
12 10
V1
Boulder
13 11
V4
Boulder
14 12
V3
Boulder
15 13
V4
Boulder
16 14
V8
Boulder
Nick Clow 2 years ago

the slab/window problem, obvious line and great climbing. 3 laps

17 15
V0
Boulder
18 16
V1
Boulder
19 17
V2
Boulder
20 18
V3
Boulder
21 19
V1
Boulder
22 20
V1
Boulder
23 21
V7
Boulder
24 22
V3
Boulder
Nick Clow 6 years ago

the crack - a Sydney classic at the grade

1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder 13 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 1
V0-
Boulder
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago

Great warm up... You'll laugh at all the good holds.

2 * 2
V1
Boulder
3 * 3
V1
Boulder
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago

scary fun

Zorba Parer 6 years ago

Nice little route. I've doe this before...still good.

4 * 4
V3
Boulder
Zorba Parer 6 years ago

Hard last move, needs a linkup to number 7.

5 * 5
V2
Boulder
6 6
V1
Boulder
David O'Donnell 5 years ago

good after a surf

Zorba Parer 6 years ago

Alright...probably a V0+

7 *** 7
V3
Boulder
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago

Got the first 1/3 down, just before the big move. Awesome fun to that point.

Rob Barker 6 years ago

took a few goes but i sent it.

8 * 8
V4
Boulder
9 * 9
V1
Boulder
Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago

cramped... but fun

10 10
V5
Boulder
11 * 11
V6
Boulder
12 * 12
V0
Boulder
13 *** 13
V3
Boulder

1.8. Parriwi Road Mosman 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Rebirth of the Cool

Route on the right hand side of the slab. Broken slab with nice holds on the head wall. Ancient carrot in the centre of the head wall shows previous unrecorded climbing activity.

FA: Nick Reese, 2008

15
Unknown 25m

1.8.1. The Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Rebirth of the Cool
15
Unknown 25m

1.8.2. Top Side Boulders 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Captains Crack

FA: Nick Reese,

16
Unknown 8m

1.9. Freshwater Beach 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.290205, -33.783916

Description:

Sea cliffs on queenscliff end

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 I like to ride my bicycle

Near over hanging belay ledge, traverse out or start form below, avoid dirty and loose rocks up slabs before no hands rest and then slightly chossy but good roof walk off from below roof possible.

16
Trad 25m
James 2 years ago

Maybe a first ascent, un bolted.

2 Gakwers

Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007

18
Sport 28m , 3
3 Damocles

8m left of Gawkers. Up to platform with huge block. Move 4m left to vertical groove in centre of East face of block. (Gawkers heads up the North face). Platform at top of block. Up overhanging layback. 2 new SS BB.

CAUTION: The large overhanging block left of the layback has crack almost completely around it.

Start: Start: 50m along cliff face from beach. Head left up diagonal crack in blank wall.

20
Unknown 28m

1.10. Palm Beach Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.324457, -33.595637

Description:© (sm)

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand at Palm Beach with some good problems. 'Excellent' for a swim and warm down after a day at Barrenjoey.

Approach:© (sm)

Continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 *** The Overhang Traverse

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

V2
Boulder
2 * The Juggy Arete

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

V0
Boulder
Stephen Pope 5 months ago

Very nice climb juggy pockets

3 *** The Problem Of Palm Beach

Up using the thin seam which turns left up the top.

Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder

V4
Boulder
4 The Easy Slab

Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots.

Start: North-east face of the north boulder.

V0
Boulder
5 The Hole

Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh.

Start: East face of southern boulder.

V0
Boulder
6 * The Flake

Up to the flake and layback.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

V1
Boulder
7 *** The Crack

The slightly overhanging, thin crack/seam. Great climbing.

Start: South face of northern boulder.

V3
Boulder
8 * The North Face

Fun crimpy face.

Start: North face of the north boulder

V1
Boulder

1.11. Northern Beaches Rockhouse 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport,Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.277451, -33.764384

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Rockhouse you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Rockhouse and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

Unit 4E, 9 - 13 Winbourne Road, Brookvale, NSW, 2100

1.11.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Grade 6 route
6
Sport 6m
2 Grade 7 route
7
Sport 6m
3 Grade 8 route
8
Sport 6m
4 Grade 9 route
9
Sport 6m
5 Grade 10 route
10
Sport 6m
6 Grade 11 route
11
Sport 6m
7 Grade 12 route
12
Sport 6m
8 Grade 13 route
13
Sport 6m
9 Grade 14 route
14
Sport 6m
10 Grade 15 route
15
Sport 6m
11 Grade 16 route
16
Sport 6m
12 Grade 17 route
17
Sport 6m
13 Grade 18 route
18
Sport 6m
14 Grade 19 route
19
Sport 6m
15 Grade 20 route
20
Sport 6m
16 Grade 21 route
21
Sport 6m
17 Grade 22 route
22
Sport 6m
18 Grade 23 route
23
Sport 6m
19 Grade 24 route
24
Sport 6m
20 Grade 25 route
25
Sport 6m
21 Grade 26 route
26
Sport 6m
22 Grade 27 route
27
Sport 6m
23 Grade 28 route
28
Sport 6m

1.11.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Grade VB- problem
VB-
Boulder 3m
2 Grade VB problem
VB
Boulder 3m
3 Grade VB+ problem
VB+
Boulder 3m
4 Grade V0- problem
V0-
Boulder 3m
5 Grade V0 problem
V0
Boulder 3m
6 Grade V0+ problem
V0+
Boulder 3m
7 Grade V1 problem
V1
Boulder 3m
8 Grade V2 problem
V2
Boulder 3m
9 Grade V3 problem
V3
Boulder 3m
10 Grade V4 problem
V4
Boulder 3m
11 Grade V5 problem
V5
Boulder 3m
12 Grade V6 problem
V6
Boulder 3m
13 Grade V7 problem
V7
Boulder 3m
14 Grade V8 problem
V8
Boulder 3m
15 Grade V9 problem
V9
Boulder 3m
16 Grade V10 problem
V10
Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB- Grade VB- problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
4 Ready, Set, Go! Trad 8m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
5 Exit Tortons Trad 13m 1.7.3. Southwest
6 A Unknown 12m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Roomba Revisited Trad 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 6 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
7 * Been There, Done That Trad 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
Nightingale Trad 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
Pyroclean Unknown 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Stove Leg Crack Trad 5m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 7 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
VB Grade VB problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
8 Colonial Mentality Trad 10m 1.4.3. Slabs
Crack 'n' Up Trad 17m 1.7.3. Southwest
Seller's Pirate Trad 4m 1.7.5. Stranglers Corner
Concise Crack Trad 6m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Freck's Effort Unknown 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 8 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
9 Communal Nose Trad 20m 1.4.3. Slabs
Scribbles Trad 12m 1.4.5. Oxford Falls
Cockroach Crack Trad 8m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
Feetus Position Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Hang Over Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Intoxicating Liquor Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Jezebel Mixed 11m , 2 1.7.3. Southwest
Speleolie Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Windward Sausage Unknown 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 9 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
10 * Celluloid Heroes Trad 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Cythaul Haul Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Mike's Cop-out Trad 8m 1.7.3. Southwest
Millie Unknown 11m 1.7.3. Southwest
Suer Trad 6m 1.7.3. Southwest
Baby Steps Unknown 9m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Home Made Jamb Trad 7m 1.7.5. Stranglers Corner
Quarto Trad 20m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 10 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
11 Lips Unknown 11m 1.7.3. Southwest
Orgasmic Trad 25m 1.7.3. Southwest
Ratbite Unknown 18m 1.7.3. Southwest
Ray's Moppy Trad 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
More Tea Vicar? Trad 9m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Inertia Trad 4m 1.7.5. Stranglers Corner
Grade 11 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
VB+ Grade VB+ problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
12 Bloggs Eliminate Trad 10m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Half Pipe Boulder 4m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
Oedipus Complex Trad 10m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
Septic Enigma Boulder 4m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
Thresher's Flail Trad 18m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
Gollum's Grope Trad 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Manteau Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Sacrilege Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Orbs Dilated Glory Trad 13m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Zany Wall Trad 19m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 12 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
13 Destroy All Andrews Trad 15m 1.1.1. Western End
Bikkies Trad 10m 1.3. Fosscrag
Keg's Korner Trad 7m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Hackitt Trad 15m 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall
Haircut Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Krill Trad 6m 1.7.3. Southwest
Solipsism Boulder 4m 1.7.3. Southwest
Two Steps Forward Mixed 20m , 1 1.7.3. Southwest
Never a Frown Trad 4m 1.7.5. Stranglers Corner
Roast Possum Unknown 4m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 13 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V0- 8 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
1 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
Grade V0- problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
14 Question Marks Unknown 7m 1.4.3. Slabs
Albatross Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
Carrie Bradshaw Sport 12m , 3 1.7.3. Southwest
* Computer Sox Trad 7m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Domino Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Elf Town Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Evil Spuds Trad 6m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity Mixed 6m , 1 1.7.3. Southwest
Judgement Day Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Pledge a Legend Trad 16m 1.7.3. Southwest
Starboard Barnacles Sport 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
No Sorry It Makes Me Fart Unknown 9m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Eulogy Unknown 22m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Frog's Anus Trad 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Roomba Revisited Direct Trad 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Epic Trad 15m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Grade 14 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
15 ** WW3 Unknown 50m 1.1.2. Main Area
Good Times Unknown 8m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Sweet Mercury Trad 12m 1.4.3. Slabs
TPI Unknown 10m 1.4.3. Slabs
* And Then the Fun Starts Trad 20m 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall
Possum Taunter Trad 15m 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall
Pugnatious Puke Trad 14m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
* Cosmic Ecology Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Cosmic Ecology Variant Start Unknown 5m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Crack of Dawn Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Facet Trad 16m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Pinnacle of Peril Trad 22m 1.7.3. Southwest
Tropico Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Observatory Trad 20m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Oggindeli Trad 6m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Quarto Direct Trad 18m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Rebirth of the Cool Unknown 25m 1.8. Parriwi Road Mosman
Rebirth of the Cool Unknown 25m 1.8.1. The Slab
Grade 15 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V0 15 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
9 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
* 12 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
The Easy Slab Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
The Hole Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
* The Juggy Arete Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
Grade V0 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
16 Aquatracks Trad 12m 1.1.1. Western End
Surges Trad 12m 1.1.1. Western End
B Unknown 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Bonza Unknown 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Cravin Sarah Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Tangerine Canard Sport 10m , 3 1.2. Terrey Hills
Ag Science Sport 18m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Common Origin Mixed 15m , 2 1.4.3. Slabs
Mum's the Word Trad 10m 1.4.3. Slabs
Snakes on the vertical plane Trad 25m 1.4.5. Oxford Falls
Remaining Shame Trad 20m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks
* Abseil Wall Trad 18m 1.7.3. Southwest
Benign Variant Finish Sport 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
Mode Sport 14m , 3 1.7.3. Southwest
Pan Pacific Wall Trad 16m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Pox Travels Fast Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket Mixed 20m , 3 1.7.3. Southwest
Tangerine Dream Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
Wild Ride Trad 18m 1.7.3. Southwest
A Clean Break Trad 8m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Defiant Deflaration Unknown 11m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Return of the Pink Sausage Trad 19m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Captains Crack Unknown 8m 1.8.2. Top Side Boulders
I like to ride my bicycle Trad 25m 1.9. Freshwater Beach
Grade 16 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
17 * Blood and Seamen Trad 15m 1.1.1. Western End
Newtown Night's Transfiguration Trad 15m 1.1.1. Western End
Scylla Trad 20m 1.1.1. Western End
Nastrand Unknown 50m 1.1.2. Main Area
** Temporary Like Achilles Unknown 45m 1.1.2. Main Area
*** The Fear Trad 47m 1.1.2. Main Area
Wringer Trad 12m 1.3. Fosscrag
Flack Sport 10m , 3 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Jammin' Measles Trad 10m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Common Sense Mixed 12m , 2 1.4.3. Slabs
* Shivering Jemmy Trad 20m 1.4.3. Slabs
** The Appliance of Domestic Science Sport 15m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Anorak Man Unknown 7m 1.6. Whale Beach
Crimson Streams Unknown 15m 1.6. Whale Beach
Double Release Unknown 20m 1.6. Whale Beach
East Ridge Sport 18m 1.6. Whale Beach
* Cramp Ons Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Enterprise Variant Mixed 15m , 4 1.7.3. Southwest
Frog's Fling Unknown 13m 1.7.3. Southwest
Ikon Sport 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
K9 Trad 13m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Womb To Tomb Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Ode to an Orange Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Same Reality Sport 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Shrubberies Trad 17m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Thirteen Hex Trad 13m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 17 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V0+ 6 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
Grade V0+ problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
18 Can't Spell Caviar Trad 12m 1.1.1. Western End
* Albatrocity Unknown 52m 1.1.2. Main Area
Moments of Glory Unknown 25m 1.1.2. Main Area
Scrabble Unknown 30m 1.1.2. Main Area
Ultramarine Unknown 45m 1.1.2. Main Area
* T Sport 4m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Bedrock Trad 7m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Fowlgrowlla Trad 8m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Seedy Saturday Trad 8m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Worthless Cracklines Trad 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
A Sport 10m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Born Under Lunges Sport 12m 1.4.3. Slabs
** C Sport 8m 1.4.3. Slabs
* Lunatic Sport 19m 1.4.3. Slabs
* Manic Sport 17m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
* Muscoviet Mosquito Sport 15m 1.4.3. Slabs
* Quick fang down the parkway Sport 10m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Technical Short Talk Sport 16m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
Pull Up the Roots Unknown 20m 1.6. Whale Beach
* Anti Scuttler Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Borcat Blues Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Cobwebs Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Enterprise Trad 25m 1.7.3. Southwest
* I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant Mixed 18m , 5 1.7.3. Southwest
** Liquid Insanity Sport 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Marsupial Smearer Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Sand Syringe Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Babe Trad 20m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
SID's Supremacy Trad 4m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** Space Vampires Sport 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Stick It Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** The Holy Hour Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Warp Factor Two Trad 17m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Painless Destiny Trad 15m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Gakwers Sport 28m , 3 1.9. Freshwater Beach
Grade 18 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
19 Darling Debi Trad 14m 1.1.1. Western End
* Beneath the Wonderdob Unknown 25m 1.1.2. Main Area
Drop Bears Unknown 55m 1.1.2. Main Area
No Morays Unknown 40m 1.1.2. Main Area
Polluted Beaches Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Main Area
** Twilight's Last Gleaming Trad 40m 1.1.3. Fairy Bower Wall
* SM Unknown 6m 1.2. Terrey Hills
* Why the Big Foss Mixed 15m , 1 1.3. Fosscrag
Areeba Sport 7m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
FHP Trad 10m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Into the Void Sport 20m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
* Self Deception Unknown 20m 1.6. Whale Beach
Breakslaps Trad 20m 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall
Arachibutyrophobia Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
Benign Sport 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Central Pillar of Mordor Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Ikon Direct Sport 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Little Plaything Trad 16m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Long Line of Leanings Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Mescalito Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Not Your Average Cab Sav Trad 20m 1.7.3. Southwest
The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again Trad 10m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Leon the Klepto Cat Trad 20m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
Benji the Upholstered Bat Sport 10m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Paw Antics Trad 12m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Tartan Tomato Plant Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 19 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
19 M1 The Pendulum Aid 40m 1.6. Whale Beach
V1 10 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
16 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
19 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
20 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
5 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
7 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
* 2 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
* 3 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
6 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
* 9 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
* The Flake Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
* The North Face Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
Grade V1 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
20 Cruel Fin Trad 17m 1.1.1. Western End
* Do or Die Trad 26m 1.1.1. Western End
* Overkill Trad 30m 1.1.1. Western End
Prophylactic Crack Trad 15m 1.1.1. Western End
* Destroy All Monsters Unknown 45m 1.1.2. Main Area
Sir Lawrence Whelk Sport 15m 1.1.2. Main Area
*** The Bolt Ladder Trad 35m 1.1.2. Main Area
The Bolt Ladder Variant Unknown 30m 1.1.2. Main Area
Turds on the Move Sport 12m 1.1.2. Main Area
Lost at sea without a paddle Trad 10m 1.1.4. Harbourside
War Wounds Trad 15m 1.1.4. Harbourside
** FTH Sport 12m , 4 1.2. Terrey Hills
* Technorabble Variant Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Unfair Dismissal Sport 12m , 3 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Kicks Sport 15m 1.4.3. Slabs
Taranesque Sport 12m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
Unfair Dismissal Sport 15m 1.4.3. Slabs
A Unknown 15m 1.6. Whale Beach
* Negotiable Fixation Sport 8m 1.6. Whale Beach
** Cranky Sport 7m 1.7.3. Southwest
* I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Trad 22m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Squid Vicious Trad 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
** Horse Latitudes Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Mirth Muscle Sport 12m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Bluegrass Trad 15m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Damocles Unknown 28m 1.9. Freshwater Beach
Grade 20 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V2 1 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
17 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
2 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
4 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
* 5 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
*** The Overhang Traverse Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
Grade V2 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
21 Bumbly's Revenge Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Main Area
Like Rain Unknown 18m 1.1.2. Main Area
The Bolt Ladder Direct Start Unknown 35m 1.1.2. Main Area
* Sexy Mamma Unknown 8m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Basket Case Mixed 15m , 1 1.3. Fosscrag
Crack Man Fever Trad 16m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* I Wanna be an Airborne Ranger Sport 15m , 6 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Lido Man Sport 12m , 4 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** Septic Penguins Sport 12m , 5 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Strange Like Norman Trad 8m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
B Sport 18m , 7 1.4.3. Slabs
* Dimples Sport 15m 1.4.3. Slabs
Frantic Sport 15m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Trickles Sport 10m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
* Madness Unknown 40m 1.6. Whale Beach
Suck Face With a Jellyfish Unknown 15m 1.6. Whale Beach
* Super Exciting Xylophone Trad 25m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Wild Gravity Mixed 12m , 3 1.7.3. Southwest
* Head Muscle Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** Streets of the Long Voyage Trad 25m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Grade 21 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
22 * Honour Thy Father Unknown 60m 1.1.2. Main Area
Buxom Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
** Euphemism Sport 9m , 3 1.2. Terrey Hills
* Orgasmotronic Sport 12m , 4 1.2. Terrey Hills
S Sport 4m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Saffron Pelican Sport 10m , 3 1.2. Terrey Hills
Apyla Sport 6m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
PL/LD Sport 10m , 3 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** Pat the Pig Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Pickaxe Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
*** Tilt Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Kiosks Sport 12m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
* Show us your ticks Sport 10m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
Some Girls Wander By Mistake Sport 14m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Hey, Buster Unknown 15m 1.6. Whale Beach
* Inverted Fuzzy Pumper Trad 15m 1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall
* Sweet Heart Unknown 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart Sport 7m 1.7.3. Southwest
Ways Of Our Lives Trad 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
Wrong Line of Learning Unknown 15m 1.7.3. Southwest
Zodiac's Pure Vegetables Unknown 8m 1.7.3. Southwest
* Same as it Ever Was Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
* Systems of Romance Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** Conspiracy of Hope Trad 15m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Grade 22 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V3 12 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
18 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
22 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
3 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
*** 13 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
* 4 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
*** 7 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
*** The Crack Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
Grade V3 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
23 * Big Craziness Aid 50m 1.1.2. Main Area
* Plunging Necklines Unknown 60m 1.1.2. Main Area
* Relax Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Rob's Arete Unknown 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Smilax Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** Technorabble Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Elmo Needs Some Air Mixed 12m , 1 1.4.3. Slabs
* Hampsters Sport 15m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
Iron Chef Sport 13m , 5 1.4.3. Slabs
B Sport 10m 1.5. Elanora Heights
* Tillies and Triangles Trad 10m 1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock
* Joker Hysterical Face Unknown 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** Once in a Lifetime Trad 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
Grade 23 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V4 11 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
13 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
4a Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
* 8 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
*** The Problem Of Palm Beach Boulder 1.10. Palm Beach Boulders
Grade V4 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
24 Agronomist Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Dancing on Ceilings Sport 12m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** Image Intensifier Sport 15m , 5 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Ms Wilkins Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** Slap and Tickle Sport 15m , 4 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
** The Old Man of Heave Sport 20m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Fat, Sallow and Drunk Sport 20m , 5 1.4.3. Slabs
For the Good of the Claws Sport 20m 1.4.3. Slabs
* Son of a Bad Man Sport 12m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
* Surfboard Sport 15m , 4 1.4.3. Slabs
Wimples Sport 10m , 3 1.4.3. Slabs
K Sport 15m 1.5. Elanora Heights
** Wake Up, Time to Fly Sport 17m 1.5. Elanora Heights
Plenty Enough Sport 15m 1.7.6. North Palm Beach
** Prairie Home Companion Trad 25m 1.7.7. Disorder Corners
Grade 24 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
25 * Doctor T. Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
Dysphemism Unknown 7m , 2 1.2. Terrey Hills
FARC (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia) Sport 9m 1.2. Terrey Hills
* Caitlin Sam Sport 10m , 5 1.4.1. Pootang Crag
Self Saucing Sandbag Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Wolfy and the Scientist Sport 12m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
* Left Wing Unknown 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
A (Open project) Unknown 8m 1.7.3. Southwest
*** Pulse of Fools Sport 12m 1.7.3. Southwest
Grade 25 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V5 Un-named Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
10 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
Grade V5 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
26 * Is This Climb My Wife? Sport 10m , 4 1.4.1. Pootang Crag
** Big Tick Sport 15m , 4 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
*** Full Tilt Sport 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
D Sport 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
I Sport 16m 1.5. Elanora Heights
L Sport 15m 1.5. Elanora Heights
Grade 26 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V6 Kyles Rule Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
Un-named Traverse Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
* 11 Boulder 1.7.8.2. The Overhang Boulder
Grade V6 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
27 ** Catherine Gockley Sport 10m , 4 1.4.1. Pootang Crag
Q Sport 13m 1.5. Elanora Heights
Grade 27 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V7 Den Dyno Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
Hi Sylv Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
21 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
Grade V7 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
28 * BRT Trad 15m 1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side
Grade 28 route Sport 6m 1.11.1. Climbing routes
V8 Sloper traverse Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
14 Boulder 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
Grade V8 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
V9 Romper Stomper Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
Grade V9 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
V10 Fight Club Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
Grade V10 problem Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Bouldering problems
V11 The Burn Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
V12 Tyler Derdan Boulder 1.4.4. The Den
? Traverse of E Face Unknown 1.7.8.1. The North Boulder
BTH Unknown 3m 1.2. Terrey Hills
C Unknown 5m 1.2. Terrey Hills
CS Unknown 4m 1.2. Terrey Hills
EC Unknown 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
GC Unknown 6m 1.2. Terrey Hills
GT Unknown 8m 1.2. Terrey Hills
MM Unknown 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
PS Unknown 5m 1.2. Terrey Hills
A (Project) Unknown 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
B Unknown 1.6. Whale Beach
?(S) BTU Sport 5m , 2 1.2. Terrey Hills
D Sport 5m 1.2. Terrey Hills
E Sport 8m 1.2. Terrey Hills
F Sport 8m 1.2. Terrey Hills
G Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
MA Sport 3m 1.2. Terrey Hills
RR Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
SLC Sport 7m 1.2. Terrey Hills
SP Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
TC Sport 10m 1.2. Terrey Hills
C (Project) Sport 18m 1.5. Elanora Heights
E Sport 15m 1.5. Elanora Heights
F Sport 10m 1.5. Elanora Heights
G (Project) Sport 13m 1.5. Elanora Heights
H (Project) Sport 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
J Sport 15m 1.5. Elanora Heights
N (Project) Sport 18m 1.5. Elanora Heights
O (Project) Sport 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
P (Project) Sport 13m 1.5. Elanora Heights
R Sport 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
S Sport 12m 1.5. Elanora Heights
T Sport 10m 1.5. Elanora Heights
M1 A Aid 15m 1.7.2. Customs House Rocks