Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Beaches 465 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.287204, -33.703897

1.1. North Head 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.299583, -33.816273

Description:© (christo)

On the cliffs below the lookouts at the very end of 'North Head'.

Approach:© (christo)

To get to the top of the Fear and the Bolt Ladder, walk ~10 m towards the ocean from the western lookout. Go down a small set of stairs and then jump the fence when the big concrete and rock pad (the old lookout) appears on the right. Both routes top out below the far side of this. The fisherman's descent is ~50 m further to the east and can clearly be seen from the top of the Fear.

1.1.1. Western End 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Strangely enough, the Western End is west of the lookout. From the lookout follow a faint clifftop track to the west until you find a manky fisherman's descent.

1.1.2. Main Area 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.300236, -33.822551

1.1.3. Fairy Bower Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

Approach:© (christo)

On the north-eastern side of North head, just south of Fairy Bower. From the southern end of the car-park at Fairy Bower, take the well-touristed bush track. Follow this up the hill, past the lookout and through a small hole in the big sandstone wall. Immediately turn left and follow the stone wall to the cliff edge (maybe 20 m or so) and then follow this for ~50 m, dodging around numerous banksia bushes and spider's webs. Two rap bolts are located on top of a large sandstone block overlooking a SE facing wall. Rap of these.

It is also possible to walk along the rock platform, which makes locating the cliff easier, however the scub-bash from the rocks to the cliff is possibly more demanding than the climb itself.

1.1.4. Harbourside 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.2. Terrey Hills 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.232375, -33.685444

Description:© (adb)

A pleasant crag with an easy 5 minute access. A good mix of routes. A bit noisy. Over 29 routes under 10m, mostly with rusty carrots. Faces South but gets a bit of sun late afternoon. Leeches when its wet.

Approach:© (adb)

Park at the locked gate on the South side of Mona Vale Rd, 200m east of Kanangra Rd, Terry Hills. Follow the fire trail past a small brick building on the left. Walk straight ahead onto a walking track that veers left. This takes you to the West end of the crag. An easy walk down.

1.3. Fosscrag 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.234777, -33.670217

Description:

A small cliff. The track along the base is overgrown so it is obviously not popular.

Approach:

From the junction of Mona Vale Road and McCarrs Creek Road head North for about 1.5km until you see the obvious cliffline on the right. Park in the small area on the right and follow a faint track up the gully separating the left and right clifflines. The four bolted routes are on the right.

1.4. Narrabeen 93 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.254952, -33.716828

Approach:© (mjw)

200m West of the track to 'Narrabeen' 'Slabs', on the South side of the road.

1.4.1. Pootang Crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.253660, -33.720334

Description:

This is the broken cliffline with plenty of rock 300m right (south west) of Narrabeen Steep Side, clearly visible from both the road and Steep Side.

Approach:

Access is from the south end of Steep Side (walk right from Septic Penguins) - don't go through the swamp from the road!

1.4.2. Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side 37 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.254890, -33.718151

Approach:

From Wakehurst Parkway, go to the East end of the fence, and climb over. Walk 10m or so along the flat, and following the rock line, before walking up hill to the crag.

1.4.3. Slabs 40 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.259174, -33.714044

Description:

As the name suggests not only is there plenty of slabby climbing to be had, but there's also the odd steeper route thrown in.

Most routes are sport - on a combination of bolts, fixed hangers and rings. Having said this there are a number of mixed routes, so check your guide before you set off - an occasional cam may be required. Most routes are equipped with lower-offs.

Climate / Conditions

The cliffline faces south and the sun moves pretty much over head. During the middle of the day you'll be climbing staring into the sun.

The cliff itself can be quite damp so leave a few days after rain for it to dry out. On a hot day it can be quite humid and mosquitos are ever present.

The cave at the far end of the crag is permanently dry should it rain - but there's only a route or two in there (certainly worth doing, but not going to fill your day!)

Getting There

The Narrabeen Slabs climbing area is located on the Wakehurst Parkway 700m west of the turn-off for the Sydney Academy of Sport. Heading away from Narrabeen you will pass the Academy of Sport; then a large layby on your right; then the access for the crag is at the locked gate on the right (just before the first sweeping lefthand corner). There is enough space on the road shoulder to park near the gate, or you can park in the large layby.

From the gate follow the well established track for 300m, passing the drain vent on your way.

1.4.4. The Den 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.241404, -33.743712

1.4.5. Oxford Falls 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Behind the waterfall! Climbing here may be currently banned.

Access Issues:

Climbing here may be currently banned. Park at the gate over the waterfall crossing walk to the waterfall.

Approach:

Rap bolts on the lower ledge on the right hand side (facing down the waterfall). Or you can walk around to the right.

Ethic:

Traditional Climbing with limited fixed protection. Still under development. Please do not bolt here.

1.5. Elanora Heights 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.268691, -33.704984

1.6. Whale Beach 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.331894, -33.610509

1.7. Barrenjoey 190 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.328318, -33.580298

Description:

A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Access Issues:

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:

From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block.

Ethic:

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

1.7.1. Lighthouse Track Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.326143, -33.580905

Description:© (secretary)

Lighthouse track wall is on a flat section of the signposted four-wheel-drive track leading to the lighthouse, about 200m up the hill.

1.7.2. Customs House Rocks 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Aid
Description:© (secretary)

A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, park as for Southwest Barrenjoey and walk north along Station Beach. From the northern end of Station Beach, head right and onto the lighthouse track. About 4m after the signpost for the old Customs House site, a track heads right off the track and leads to a rotting bolt ladder which marks the start of the crag.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff

1.7.3. Southwest 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.323751, -33.580352

Approach:© (secretary)

Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the L side of sand dues past a house, a red shed and a large boulder. Continues along rocky shore to track beside another two houses. Walk along this from approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs. The trail hits the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

1.7.4. Insomnia Cave Rock 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:© (secretary)

A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.

Approach:© (secretary)

On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).

1.7.5. Stranglers Corner 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (secretary)

Faces West - a summer's microwave. Good Rock

Approach:© (secretary)

A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock. It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.

1.7.6. North Palm Beach 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.331080, -33.581361

Approach:© (secretary)

Up 4wd track to the lighthouse. Then right down various tracks, to reach the crags.

1.7.7. Disorder Corners 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.330731, -33.579112

Description:© (secretary)

A small patch of good to excellent rock in amongst the incredibly chossy cliffs on the northern side of Barrenjoey. It's a beautiful escape from the city, with all sorts of wildlife (penguins, sea lions, mating tourons etc.).

Unfortunately all of the fixed protection rotted millenia ago making most of the climbs unleadable. It's also very difficult to set up top ropes, since all of the climbs stop at a ledge below the top of the cliff (the cliff is choss higher up).

Approach:© (secretary)

The quickest way to get the crag is to walk to the Southwest Barrenjoey crag and continue on past it and around the end of the headland. Ignore endless choss until you encounter a nice orange corner in excellent rock, near a large sloping boulder. You can also walk around the eastern end of the headland which offers fine views of some of the most impressive honeycomb choss in the Sydney region (it's actually quite amazing to look at).

1.7.8. Palm Beach Boulders 37 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.324452, -33.595650

1.8. Parriwi Road Mosman 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.247141, -33.809622

1.8.1. The Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.2. Top Side Boulders 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.9. Freshwater Beach 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.290205, -33.783916

Description:

Sea cliffs on queenscliff end

1.9.1. Freshwater North End 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.295383, -33.781801

Description:

Boulder problems near the pool at the northern end of Freshwater Beach.

1.10. Palm Beach Boulders 23 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.324457, -33.595637

Description:© (sm)

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand at Palm Beach with some good problems. 'Excellent' for a swim and warm down after a day at Barrenjoey.

Approach:© (sm)

Continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

1.11. Northern Beaches Rockhouse 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.277451, -33.764384

Description:

If you climb at Rockhouse you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

Unit 4E, 9 - 13 Winbourne Road, Brookvale, NSW, 2100

1.11.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.11.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.12. Black Cave 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

AKA Manly Cave AKA Forty Basket Beach