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Description

A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hanger-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand on small ledge after bulge, place #6 rock and move off into space. Up crack.

Start: 5m right of 'Leon the Klepto Cat'.

At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece.

Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Martin Jones, 1983

4m left of LtKC.

Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1984

3m left of TaT.

Straight up wall. A good sunset spot.

FA: Craig B. Martin (solo)

2m left of ODG.

Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan & Ray Haak, 2004

As for NSIMMF.

On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2005

Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS.

Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan & Ray Haak, 2004

Activity

Check out what is happening in Insomnia Cave Rock.