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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Unknown
- Description:© (secretary)
A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.
- Access Issues: inherited from Barrenjoey
There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.
- Approach:© (secretary)
On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).
- Ethic: inherited from Barrenjoey
The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.
Stand on small ledge after bulge, place #6 rock and move off into space. Up crack.
Start: 5m right of 'Leon the Klepto Cat'.
Leon the Klepto Cat
At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece.
Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.
FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1983
Tillies and Triangles
4m left of LtKC.
Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.
FA: Craig B. Martin, 1984
Orbs Dilated Glory
3m left of TaT.
Straight up wall. A good sunset spot.
FA: Craig B. Martin (solo)
No Sorry It Makes Me Fart
2m left of ODG.
Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.
FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004
As for NSIMMF.
On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.
FA: Niall Doherty, 2005
More Tea Vicar?
Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS.
Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.
FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004
|11||More Tea Vicar?||9m|
|12||Orbs Dilated Glory||13m|
|14||No Sorry It Makes Me Fart||9m|
|19||Leon the Klepto Cat||20m|
|23||Tillies and Triangles||10m|