A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Insomnia Cave Rock 7 routes in Crag

Trad and Unknown
Description:© (secretary)

A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.

Access Issues: inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:© (secretary)

On the plateau above 'Ikon Direct' (South West Barrenjoey Left Side).

Ethic: inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Observatory

Stand on small ledge after bulge, place #6 rock and move off into space. Up crack.

Start: 5m right of 'Leon the Klepto Cat'.

15 Trad 20m
2 ** Leon the Klepto Cat

At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece.

Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1983

19 Trad 20m
3 * Tillies and Triangles

4m left of LtKC.

Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1984

23 Trad 10m
4 Orbs Dilated Glory

3m left of TaT.

Straight up wall. A good sunset spot.

FA: Craig B. Martin (solo)

12 Trad 13m
5 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart

2m left of ODG.

Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004

14 Unknown 9m
6 Baby Steps

As for NSIMMF.

On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2005

10 Unknown 9m
7 More Tea Vicar?

Start below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS.

Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak, 2004

11 Trad 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Baby Steps Unknown 9m
11 More Tea Vicar? Trad 9m
12 Orbs Dilated Glory Trad 13m
14 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart Unknown 9m
15 Observatory Trad 20m
19 ** Leon the Klepto Cat Trad 20m
23 * Tillies and Triangles Trad 10m