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Description

Lighthouse track wall is on a flat section of the signposted four-wheel-drive track leading to the lighthouse, about 200m up the hill.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

2m left of H.

Desperate start to lip (manky BR), delicate wall past 2 BRs to ledge. Bulges, right to overhang and up.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

2
13 Hackitt Trad 15m

Obvious cliff splitting crack.

Trench warfare to start, then pleasantly up the crack to the cave. Step left over roof (take care with loose rock) and up pleasant headwall. Well protected.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1982

3
19 Breakslaps Trad 20m

Start: Middle of wall 5m right of IFP.

  1. 20m (19) Up wall to small breaks for friends. BB and friends in cave.

  2. 7m (19) (Crux) Clip BRs on right side floor of cave and place friends in roof flake. Out to BR on lip and slap up to BB and Bushes.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

4
15 Possum Taunter Trad 15m

7m right of B below crack 5m up.

Up crack to the "possum cave", step right and up short offwidth.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

5

Incorrectly marked "PT". 20m right of PT at twin cracks.

Steeply out of alcove and up twin cracks. Thought provoking crux over roof to lovely headwall. Take small to mid size cams.

FA: Roy Chick, Ian Strut, 1984

Open trips

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