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Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

Up 4wd track to the lighthouse. Then right down various tracks, to reach the crags.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
7 Stove Leg Crack Trad 5m

Boulder Problem.

Start: Off-width boulder problem.

2
8 Concise Crack Trad 6m

Boulder Problem.

Start: Slab, then corner-crack.

3
17 Thirteen Hex Trad 13m

Strenuous.

Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'.

4
18 * Warp Factor Two Trad 17m

A very enjoyable excursion indeed.

Start: Right of CC.

5
17 Shrubberies Trad 17m

Quite 'Steep'.

Start: Orange wall below large overhangin off-width left of 'Oggindeli'.

6
15 Oggindeli Trad 6m

Veterinary delight.

Start: Short wall 4m left of TTP.

7
19 Tartan Tomato Plant Unknown 15m
8
23 ** Once in a Lifetime Trad 15m

Well-respected problem with some thin moves near the top. Craig Martin took a 10m ground-fall attempting the FA (without BRs). Silly man!

Start: On prominent arete near large boulders.

9
18 SID's Supremacy Trad 4m

Overhang problem; second pitch of OL.

10
19 Paw Antics Trad 12m

Some interesting moves-and falls, eh, Animal? Grabee rap rope burnee widle paws.

Start: Wall left of Frog\'s Anus.

  1. 12m (19) Past small break (Friend) and flared crack (small wire). BB.

  2. -m (-)

11
14 Frog's Anus Trad 10m

No bad if dry.

Start: Crack in corner opposite large boulder paralle to track.

12
12 Zany Wall Trad 19m

Fairly pleasant jaunt.

Start: 3m right of FA.

  1. 19m (12) UP wall to cave, over lip to ledge.

  2. 9m (12) Walk 4m right, then up corner and slab.

13

Sustained corner-crack.

Start: 3m right of ZW.

14
18 * Babe Trad 20m

A three-star classic: deduct two start for the walk in.

Start: Corner right of RPS.

15
9 Windward Sausage Unknown 10m
16
6 Roomba Revisited Trad 10m

Boulder Problem.

Start: The arete to slabs.

17

Boulder Problem.

Start: The bulge

18
16 A Clean Break Trad 8m

Good, clean fun.

Start: Cracks left of 'Quarto Direct'.

19
15 Quarto Direct Trad 18m

Balancy.

Start: 2m left of 'Quarto'

20
10 Quarto Trad 20m

Up slab to ledge, left and up short corner.

Start: 40m right of ZW.

21
18 ** Space Vampires Sport 15m

Excellent. Protection, rock and moves are all good.

Start: 5m right of 'Quarto'.

22
14 Eulogy Unknown 22m
23
22 * Same as it Ever Was Unknown 15m
24
22 * Systems of Romance Unknown 15m
25
23 * Joker Hysterical Face Unknown 15m
26
13 Roast Possum Unknown 4m
27
16 Defiant Deflaration Unknown 11m
28
17 Ode to an Orange Unknown 15m
29
18 Stick It Unknown 15m
30
17 Same Reality Sport 15m
31
24 Plenty Enough Sport 15m
32
8 Freck's Effort Unknown 10m
33
18 ** The Holy Hour Unknown 15m
34
20 ** Horse Latitudes Unknown 15m
35
21 * Head Muscle Unknown 15m
36
20 * Mirth Muscle Sport 12m

Open trips

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