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Access Issues: inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:© (secretary)

Up 4wd track to the lighthouse. Then right down various tracks, to reach the crags.

Ethic: inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Stove Leg Crack

Boulder Problem.

Start: Off-width boulder problem.

7
Trad 5m
2 Concise Crack

Boulder Problem.

Start: Slab, then corner-crack.

8
Trad 6m
3 Thirteen Hex

Strenuous.

Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'.

17
Trad 13m
4 * Warp Factor Two

A very enjoyable excursion indeed.

Start: Right of CC.

18
Trad 17m
5 Shrubberies

Quite 'Steep'.

Start: Orange wall below large overhangin off-width left of 'Oggindeli'.

17
Trad 17m
6 Oggindeli

Veterinary delight.

Start: Short wall 4m left of TTP.

15
Trad 6m
7 Tartan Tomato Plant
19
Unknown 15m
8 ** Once in a Lifetime

Well-respected problem with some thin moves near the top. Craig Martin took a 10m ground-fall attempting the FA (without BRs). Silly man!

Start: On prominent arete near large boulders.

23
Trad 15m
9 SID's Supremacy

Overhang problem; second pitch of OL.

18
Trad 4m
10 Paw Antics

Some interesting moves-and falls, eh, Animal? Grabee rap rope burnee widle paws.

Start: Wall left of Frog\'s Anus.

  1. 12m (19) Past small break (Friend) and flared crack (small wire). BB.

  2. -m (-)

19
Trad 12m
11 Frog's Anus

No bad if dry.

Start: Crack in corner opposite large boulder paralle to track.

14
Trad 10m
12 Zany Wall

Fairly pleasant jaunt.

Start: 3m right of FA.

  1. 19m (12) UP wall to cave, over lip to ledge.

  2. 9m (12) Walk 4m right, then up corner and slab.

12
Trad 19m
13 * Return of the Pink Sausage

Sustained corner-crack.

Start: 3m right of ZW.

16
Trad 19m
14 * Babe

A three-star classic: deduct two start for the walk in.

Start: Corner right of RPS.

18
Trad 20m
15 Windward Sausage
9
Unknown 10m
16 Roomba Revisited

Boulder Problem.

Start: The arete to slabs.

6
Trad 10m
17 Roomba Revisited Direct

Boulder Problem.

Start: The bulge

14
Trad 10m
18 A Clean Break

Good, clean fun.

Start: Cracks left of 'Quarto Direct'.

16
Trad 8m
19 Quarto Direct

Balancy.

Start: 2m left of 'Quarto'

15
Trad 18m
20 Quarto

Up slab to ledge, left and up short corner.

Start: 40m right of ZW.

10
Trad 20m
21 ** Space Vampires

Excellent. Protection, rock and moves are all good.

Start: 5m right of 'Quarto'.

18
Sport 15m
22 Eulogy
14
Unknown 22m
23 * Same as it Ever Was
22
Unknown 15m
24 * Systems of Romance
22
Unknown 15m
25 * Joker Hysterical Face
23
Unknown 15m
26 Roast Possum
13
Unknown 4m
27 Defiant Deflaration
16
Unknown 11m
28 Ode to an Orange
17
Unknown 15m
29 Stick It
18
Unknown 15m
30 Same Reality
17
Sport 15m
31 Plenty Enough
24
Sport 15m
32 Freck's Effort
8
Unknown 10m
33 ** The Holy Hour
18
Unknown 15m
34 ** Horse Latitudes
20
Unknown 15m
35 * Head Muscle
21
Unknown 15m
36 * Mirth Muscle
20
Sport 12m
37 Benji the Upholstered Bat
19
Sport 10m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.

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