Southwest Mostly Trad climbing87 routes in crag
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This is the main part of the crag that everybody visits. The other sectors have either fallen into disuse or have bad bolts or access issues. The cliff is the buttress that can be seen from the car park and far western end of the peninsula. You can see crack of dawn and cranky from here. Most of the climbs have easy top rope access. Otherwise you will need a selection of cams for most of the routes. Most of the bolts here are carrots, with rap stations in place for a lot of the popular routes.© (secretary)
Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the beach on the western side of the peninsula past a house, the lighthouse turn-off, a red shed and a large boulder. Walk to the end of the beach where there are two houses with large rocks in front of them. There is a track that starts roughly between the two houses (from on top of a rock). It heads up and left in front of the northern most house. It is not the track before the houses with the 'private property' sign. Walk along this for approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs (right turn). The trail hits the cliff somewhere between 'Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket' and 'Crack of Dawn'.© (secretary)
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