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Summary

Seaside sandstone cragging, with a good selection of moderate carrot bolted 'mixed' climbs.

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Description

This is the main part of the crag that everybody visits. The other sectors have either fallen into disuse or have bad bolts or access issues. The cliff is the buttress that can be seen from the car park and far western end of the peninsula. You can see crack of dawn and cranky from here. Most of the climbs have easy top rope access. Otherwise you will need a selection of cams for most of the routes. Most of the bolts here are carrots, with rap stations in place for a lot of the popular routes.

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Access issues

On high tide you may need to cross through the grounds of the last cottage on the peninsula. This is land that is owned by NPWS, however the cottages are currently not used.

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Approach

Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the beach on the western side of the peninsula past a house, the lighthouse turn-off, a red shed and a large boulder. Walk to the end of the beach where there are two houses with large rocks in front of them. There is a track that starts roughly between the two houses (from on top of a rock). It heads up and left in front of the northern most house. It is not the track before the houses with the 'private property' sign. Walk along this for approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs (right turn). The trail hits the cliff somewhere between 'Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket' and 'Crack of Dawn'.

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Ethic

Mixed; i.e. carrots with bits and pieces of trad. Bring medium sized cams upwards. The small ones are rubbish in the rock here.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes are ordered from Right to Left. The trail meets the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

The overhang.

The offwidth.

The chimney.

10m right of Haircut.

Up the wall and seam.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

The offwidth.

The arete.

The wall.

The crack.

The offwidth.

3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

FA: Craig B. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

FA: T. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982

The obvious corner 2m right of WG.

FA: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan & Martin Jones, 1983

The next two routes are on boulders on the top cliff line about 15m to right of PWCB.

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and 15m to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are 20yo expansion bolts (inappropriate in sandstone) and should not be trusted.

Set by Greg Andrews, 1996

Back to ground level

Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake

Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1983

1.5m right of PWCB.

Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.

FA: Mike Law & Craig B. Martin, 1985

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983

Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel'

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2003

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

FA: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

FA: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B.Martin, 1983

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

The access track reaches the cliff here.

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

FA: Peter Ward, 1986

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

FA: Glenn Robbins

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

FA: Captain Black

Up ISHFWILF then step right to flake on MS and finish as for that route.

Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m left of 'Marsupial Smearer'. Stay left of MS the entire way, with crux over high bulges (2 BRs), staying out of the crack on MS.

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Marked "AT". 2m left of D.

Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

FA: Craig B. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

A protected aboriginal midden. STAY OFF!

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

1m left of CE. Up to join CE.

FA: Craig D. Martin

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

A contrived sit-start. A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1983

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam.

Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.

FA: Mike Meyers & David Hains, 1984

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").

FA: Mike Meyers & M. Toakley, 1983

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982

Crack left of CS.

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

The off-width boulder problem.

Start below arete, 1m left of S.

Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

4m left of tPBSA.

Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984

As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs.

Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT.

Chimney left of B.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

FA: Craig B. Martin & N. Moran, 1984

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

2m left of PAL.

Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984

2m left of BB.

Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

2m left of TD.

Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD

FA: Peter Ward & Trevor Carlos, 1986

8m left of C.

Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Start: The easy chimney left of CH.

A quick ascent or decent route.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Just left of N.

Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin

Arete left of PTF.

Straight up exposed and unprotected arete

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team

Start: 2m left of PP.

Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

Left of SEX.

Up crack then up chimney above that.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

1m left of IL.

Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

Very shallow corner left of LP.

A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.

FA: Martin Jones & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

FA: Mike Garben & Garry Pienaar, 2003

Left of AS.

Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Another wriggler!

Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

FA: Warwick Williams & Kevin Melville, 2003

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

4m left of AW.

Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection.

Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave.

Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Mike Law, 1985

Start in left side of LLoL cave.

Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.

FA: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003

5m left of LLL.

Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.

FA: Mike Law, 1985

2m left of POF. Hard thin moves and slopers to an easy finish.

Corner crack left of PoF

The off-width boulder problem left of S.

Where Ikon should have gone.

Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984

As for ID. Silly.

Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984

Marked M, 10m left of I.

Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.

FA: Ray Haak & John Shaw, 2005

FA: Jim Dickins/Sandra Parker

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