Southwest Mostly Trad climbing86 routes in crag
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Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey
There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.
Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the beach on the western side of the peninsula past a house, the lighthouse turn-off, a red shed and a large boulder. Walk to the end of the beach where there are two houses with large rocks in front of them. There is a track that starts roughly between the two houses (from on top of a rock). It heads up and left in front of the northern most house. It is not the track before the houses with the 'private property' sign. Walk along this for approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs (right turn). The trail hits the cliff somewhere between 'Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket' and 'Crack of Dawn'.© (secretary)
Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey
The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hanger-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.
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