The overhang.

The offwidth.

The chimney.

10m right of Haircut.

Up the wall and seam.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

The offwidth.

The arete.

The wall.

The crack.

The offwidth.

3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

FA: T. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

The obvious corner 2m right of WG.

FA: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones, 1983

Wild Gravity

Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake

Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983

1.5m right of PWCB.

Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.

FA: Mike Law, Craig B. Martin, 1985

Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

Cranky

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.

Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel'

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2003

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Enterprise

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

Enterprise Variant

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin, 1983

Crack of Dawn

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

FA: Peter Ward, 1986

Liquid Insanity

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

FA: Glenn Robbins,

Marsupial Smearer

A nice variation on 'Liquid Insanity'.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'.

Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

FA: Captain Black,

I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant

Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.

I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For

A nice variation on 'Marsupial Smearer'.

Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m Left of 'Marsupial Smearer'.

As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.

Domino

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Marked "AT". 2m left of D.

Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

Cramp Ons

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

Hang Over

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

Cosmic Ecology

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

1m left of CE. Up to join CE.

FA: Craig D. Martin,

Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics

A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!).

Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1983

Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam.

Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.

FA: Mike Meyers, David Hains, 1984

Squid Vicious

As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").

FA: Mike Meyers, M. Toakley, 1983

Computer Sox

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

Cythaul Haul

Crack left of CS.

Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

Sacrilege

The off-width boulder problem.

Start below arete, 1m left of S.

Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

4m left of tPBSA.

Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs.

Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT.

Been There, Done That

Chimney left of B.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Central Pillar of Mordor

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Sand Syringe

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

FA: Craig B. Martin, N. Moran, 1984

Not Your Average Cab Sav

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

Pledge a Legend

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

2m left of PAL.

Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

2m left of BB.

Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Cobwebs

2m left of TD.

Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD

FA: Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos, 1986

Celluloid Heroes

8m left of C.

Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Start: The easy chimney left of CH.

A quick ascent or decent route.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Pox Travels Fast

Just left of N.

Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin,

Pinnacle of Peril

Arete left of PTF.

Straight up exposed and unprotected arete

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team,

Super Exciting Xylophone

Start: 2m left of PP.

Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

Left of SEX.

Up crack then up chimney above that.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Little Plaything

1m left of IL.

Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

Anti Scuttler

Very shallow corner left of LP.

A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.

FA: Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin, 1982

Sweet Heart

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

FA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar, 2003

Facet

Left of AS.

Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Another wriggler!

Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Mescalito

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

FA: Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville, 2003

Abseil Wall

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

4m left of AW.

Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection.

Long Line of Leanings

Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave.

Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Mike Law, 1985

Start in left side of LLoL cave.

Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.

FA: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003

Pulse of Fools

5m left of LLL.

Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.

FA: Mike Law, 1985

Corner crack left of PoF

The off-width boulder problem left of S.

Ikon Direct

Where Ikon should have gone.

Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

As for ID. Silly.

Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

Marked M, 10m left of I.

Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.

FA: Ray Haak, John Shaw, 2005

FA: Jim Dickins/Sandra Parker,