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Access issues inherited from Barrenjoey

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach

Go to Palm Beach, then up the Governor Philip Park road to the car-park. To reach South-West Barrenjoey from the car-park, walk along the L side of sand dues past a house, a red shed and a large boulder. Continues along rocky shore to track beside another two houses. Walk along this from approximately 100m to the junction leading to the cliffs. The trail hits the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Barrenjoey

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes are ordered from Right to Left. The trail meets the cliff at 'Crack of Dawn'.

1
14 Evil Spuds Trad 6m

The overhang.

2
12 Gollum's Grope Trad 4m

The offwidth.

3
7 Pyroclean Unknown 4m

The chimney.

4

10m right of Haircut.

Up the wall and seam.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984

5
13 Haircut Boulder 4m

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

The offwidth.

6
13 Solipsism Boulder 4m

The arete.

7
12 Manteau Boulder 4m

The wall.

8
9 Speleolie Boulder 4m

The crack.

9
9 Feetus Position Boulder 4m

The offwidth.

10
5 Exit Tortons Trad 13m

3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

11
14 Albatross Trad 15m

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

12
17 Frog's Fling Trad 13m

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

13
17 K9 Trad 13m

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

FA: T. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

14
11 Ratbite Unknown 18m

The obvious corner 2m right of WG.

FA: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones, 1983

15
21 * Wild Gravity Mixed 12m, 3

Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake

Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin, 1983

16

1.5m right of PWCB.

Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.

FA: Mike Law, Craig B. Martin, 1985

17

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

18
20 ** Cranky Sport 7m

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

19
25 A (Open project) Unknown 8m

The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.

20
10 Millie Unknown 11m

Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel'

21
9 Jezebel Mixed 11m, 2

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

22
13 Two Steps Forward Mixed 20m, 1

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1982

23
14 Carrie Bradshaw Sport 12m, 3

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2003

24
14 Starboard Barnacles Sport 20m

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

25
14 R Elf Town Trad 20m

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

FA: Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey, 1984

26
14 Judgement Day Trad 20m

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

27
18 * Enterprise Trad 25m

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin, 1983

28
17 * Enterprise Variant Mixed 15m, 4

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin, 1983

29
15 * Crack of Dawn Trad 20m

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

The following routes are all to the Left of where the trail meets the cliff.

30
19 Arachibutyrophobia Trad 20m

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

FA: Peter Ward, 1986

31
18 ** Liquid Insanity Sport 20m

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

FA: Glenn Robbins

32
18 ** Marsupial Smearer Trad 20m

A nice variation on 'Liquid Insanity'.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'.

Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

FA: Captain Black

33

Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.

34

A nice variation on 'Marsupial Smearer'.

Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m Left of 'Marsupial Smearer'.

As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.

35
14 * Domino Trad 20m

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

36
15 Tropico Trad 20m

Marked "AT". 2m left of D.

Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

37
17 R * Cramp Ons Trad 20m

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

38
16 Wild Ride Trad 18m

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

39
9 Hang Over Trad 12m

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

40
17 Womb To Tomb Trad 12m

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

FA: Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

41
15 * Cosmic Ecology Trad 12m

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

42

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

1m left of CE. Up to join CE.

FA: Craig D. Martin

43

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

A contrived sit-start. A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1983

44
22 Ways Of Our Lives Trad 15m

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam.

Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.

FA: Mike Meyers, David Hains, 1984

45
20 ** Squid Vicious Trad 12m

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").

FA: Mike Meyers, M. Toakley, 1983

46
14 * Computer Sox Trad 7m

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones, 1982

47
10 * Cythaul Haul Trad 12m

Crack left of CS.

48

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

49
12 ** Sacrilege Boulder 4m

The off-width boulder problem.

50

Start below arete, 1m left of S.

Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

51
19 Benign Sport 10m

4m left of tPBSA.

Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

52

As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

53
10 Mike's Cop-out Trad 8m

Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs.

Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT.

54

Chimney left of B.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

55

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

56
11 Orgasmic Trad 25m

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

57
18 * Sand Syringe Trad 20m

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

FA: Craig B. Martin, N. Moran, 1984

58

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

59
14 * Pledge a Legend Trad 16m

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

60
18 Borcat Blues Trad 20m

2m left of PAL.

Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

61
16 Tangerine Dream Trad 15m

2m left of BB.

Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

62
18 * Cobwebs Trad 15m

2m left of TD.

Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD

FA: Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos, 1986

63
10 * Celluloid Heroes Trad 10m

8m left of C.

Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

64
7 Nightingale Trad 10m

Start: The easy chimney left of CH.

A quick ascent or decent route.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

65
16 * Pox Travels Fast Trad 15m

Just left of N.

Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin

66
15 ** Pinnacle of Peril Trad 22m

Arete left of PTF.

Straight up exposed and unprotected arete

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team

67

Start: 2m left of PP.

Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

68

Left of SEX.

Up crack then up chimney above that.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

69
19 * Little Plaything Trad 16m

1m left of IL.

Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

70
18 * Anti Scuttler Trad 20m

Very shallow corner left of LP.

A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.

FA: Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin, 1982

71
22 * Sweet Heart Unknown 12m

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

FA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar, 2003

72
15 * Facet Trad 16m

Left of AS.

Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

73
8 Crack 'n' Up Trad 17m

Another wriggler!

Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

74
19 * Mescalito Trad 12m

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

75
16 Mode Sport 14m, 3

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

FA: Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville, 2003

76
16 * Abseil Wall Trad 18m

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

77
16 Pan Pacific Wall Trad 16m

4m left of AW.

Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection.

78

Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave.

Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Mike Law, 1985

79
22 Wrong Line of Learning Unknown 15m

Start in left side of LLoL cave.

Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.

FA: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003

80
25 *** Pulse of Fools Sport 12m

5m left of LLL.

Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.

FA: Mike Law, 1985

81
10 Suer Trad 6m

Corner crack left of PoF

82
13 Krill Trad 6m

The off-width boulder problem left of S.

83
19 * Ikon Direct Sport 10m

Where Ikon should have gone.

Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

84
17 Ikon Sport 10m

As for ID. Silly.

Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick, 1984

85
11 Ray's Moppy Trad 10m

Marked M, 10m left of I.

Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.

FA: Ray Haak, John Shaw, 2005

86
11 Lips Unknown 11m

FA: Jim Dickins/Sandra Parker

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