The Crown Rock climbing45 routes in cliff
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The unmissable volcanic plug visible from the centre of Urbenville, also known as 'North Obelisk'. It's north-facing slabs offer balancy slabbing on very featureless rock, in contrast to the more blocky structure of The Pines. For Queensland climbers, reminiscent of older style slab routes of Mt Beerwah. More recently, dark arts have been practiced on its shady southern side (see Spot X).
Useful Info: Most of the more trafficked climbs were rebolted by Safer Cliffs Queensland in mid-2008 with stainless fixed hangers and expansion bolts. The hardware on many of the remaining routes consists mostly of bash-in mild steel or sometimes stainless bolts in varying states of decay. Exercise caution and discretion.
Many routes require some trad gear and bolt plates, so be prepared. The classics of the crag would have to be Slip 23m (19) and the three pitch continuation starting at the end of Slip known as 'Fantastic' 75m (19).
The black trachyte and NNE position means that The Crown is best climbed autumn through spring, some respite in summer may be available on those climbs under the treeline but don't count on it.© (hotgemini)
Access issues inherited from Urbenville
For access to The Crown only, not Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.
Head south from the centre of Urbenville, turn right into Stephen Street and follow it for 900 metres then turn left into the sewerage treatment plant. Park in the shade of the gum trees immediately downhill of the aeration ponds.
Walk uphill between the aeration ponds and the sedimentation ponds and continue upwards towards the two 'apple' trees. From here you should be able to follow the faint cairned path until it takes you to the cliff face proper. Walk R along the rock to reach the first routes. In order to minimise erosion please stay on the path and do not short-cut across switchbacks.
Update 2016: Trail still exists, but is faint, and only a few cairns can be spotted. Still easy to find the cliff given the short distance.© (hotgemini)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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