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Description

Routes are described left to right.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Graunch Trad
3
19 The Hindley Hustle Trad 20m
4
21 Uptown Eugene Trad 20m
5
23 Uptown Eugene RHV Trad 20m
6
23 * Little Rundle Street Sport 20m, 5

The line 2m left of 'Trundle down rundle' - 5 bolts

FFA: Adam Gower, 2012

7
25 *** Trundle Down Rundle Sport 20m, 4

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

8
24 ** Trundle RHF Trad
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25 * City To Bay Sport 8

Trundle down rundle to it's 3rd bolt, then break right to a fixed draw, follow the traverse right, another fixed draw, then through the roof into Space to rent. Finish at the ANZAC chains.

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24 * Hyperspace Bypass Trad 20m
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24 ** Anzac Space Sport 15m, 8

Anzac to the 4th bolt then left (across Pivoting Head/RERL traverse) into Space to Rent - finishing as for Anzac. Take a long draw for the 5th.

13
24 Space to Rent Sport 6

Approx 2m left of the start to 'Anzac'. Trad start to old bolts leads to the RERL traverse line (at the roof). Head directly through roof approx 5m left of Anzac line and finish as for Anzac. Now bolted.

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15
25 * Run Every Red Light Sport 25m, 7

Anzac Highway to its 4th bolt, then break left along the horizontal past a .75 Cam placement, bolt and .5 Cam placement to join Trundle Down Rundle at its final ring bolt (crux). Traverse now bolted.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

16
24 *** Anzac Highway Amble Sport 25m, 7

Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB

FA: Tony Barker, 2000

17
21 Grurper LHV Trad 13m

Up between Anzac Highway Amble and Grurper DS to a groove. Escape up R to the Grurper ledge. Features guano, poor rock and marginal protection.

FA: Colin Reece, Chris Shepherd, 1980

18
22 Grurper DS Sport 10m, 3

Start: Left of 'Crossroads'

Straight up to the exciting move onto the big ledge. 3 bolts to rap station. NB: The original Grurper starts near North Terrace Stroll and gains the big ledge from the R.

19
21 Grurper pitch 1 Mixed 17m, 2

The left-trending trenchline, starting near the base of NTS. Most people place gear along the way. When it joins Crossroads, move up clipping two bolts then step L to the big ledge with the belay biners. NB: this is not Grurper DS which has 3 bolts and climbs directly to the ledge.

FA: Roger Alldritt, John Nitschke, 1972

FFA: Colin Reece, Gary Scott, 1979

20
25 *** Crossroads Sport 20m

An excellent addition made up of a steep bouldery start, a pumpy big-hold mid-section, then morphing into a somewhat technical slabby finish. Finish at the chain of 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Peter Daish

22
25 ** Crossing the Stroll Sport 20m
23

Start crossroads,into stroll traverse right under main roof to jion kpdm

FA: JayT, 2006

25

Crossroads to rest, then right into The Stroll and then into KPDM to finish.

26
25 *** North Terrace Stroll Sport 20m

Quite a hard onsight. Unlikely moves epitomise both crux's of this outstanding route, which breaks through the top main roof on its leftside (past the fixed 'biner).

Start: Start below a very high 1st ring bolt, climb to this, then onwards to the fixed blue 'biner (1st crux). Take the left-trending line of jugs up and left then through the main roof and up.

27

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

FA: Stuart Willams, 2000

28
26 ** Pain on Payneham Sport 23m

Climb KPDM to the top roof, then traverse with trepidation leftwards to the finish of 'North Terrace Stroll'. Could do with another bolt!

FA: stefan S

29

Links Itchy Fingered into Payneham

FA: Justin Taylor, 2006

30
26 Itchy Fingered FNG Sport 10m

To screwgate on Stroll then up and right to Peregrine belay

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

31

Links Itchy Fingered into KPDM - a longstanding problem finally solved.

FA: Steve Pollard, 2000

32

Start up 'Peregrine' RHV until through its crux. Clip the bolt of 'Brotherhood' and traverse left into Itchy Fingered. Continue and finish as for 'North Terrace Stroll'.

FA: Craig Ingram

33

Local warm up route.

34

Bear up R, then through a roof and up the wall to a DBB.

The original Peregrine 17M5 had 5 pitches but climbing above the 2nd pitch is off limits.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, Richard Horn, Doug McLean, 1970

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Jon Chester, Greg Moore, 1979

35

An eliminate! Takes a contrived lefthand version of 'Peregrine' past an additional fixed hanger. Finish at the loweroff of PRHV.

36
23 * Peregrine RHV Sport 9m, 3

The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab.

37
24 * Punching the Pussy Sport 15m, 4

aka Eddie Variant. Climb 'Peregrine' and then launch up the rest of Eddie. Can also be done via the RHV start at roughly the same grade.

38

Been done ages ago but not recorded on this site. Up Eddie until it reaches out left within a move of Peregrine then finish up that route.

39
25 ** Eddie Misses the Point Sport 15m, 4

A Summit classic. Optimal power-endurance climbing at the grade. Start as for 'Peregrine' RHV but launch directly up past the 1st bolt to a 2nd. Break back left via a crimpy move (crux) into 'Pussy' and finish at the chain.

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

40
26 ** Kill like a Madam Sport 23m

Link 'TITG" into 2nd pitch of peregrine.

FA: simon wilson

41
26 ** Tim in the Gym Sport 15m

Has had more laps run on it than the 'Adelaide' Oval... Start as for Eddie, then trend rightwards to the big roof. Clip the lip bolt, dyno, and finish directly at the chain. A tad harder than Eddie.

42

A tad easier than Tim! The direct start to Tim, climbing straight up to the roof from the right side of the Cave.

43
24 Don't Rain on The Parade Sport 25m, 4

FA: Michael Hillan

44

Start 2m R of the corner. Climb past 2 bolts to a horizontal, traverse R to 3rd and then a technical finish to DBB on the R.

46
20 Red Dwarf Trad 9m

Shallow groove between Black Dwarf and Easy Peasy. Solo. Probably been TR'd before.

FA: 2011

47
20 Easy Peasy Sport

Furthest right hand line of bolts on right side of Cave as you walk in.

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15 * AUMC Route Trad
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52
23 * Endive Trad
53

FA: Mark Witham, Stuart Williams , 1988

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V4 * The Thing Boulder
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58
V4 The Big Dyno Boulder
60
V4 La Rose Traverse Boulder
62
V3 The Iron Cross Boulder
63
V5 Luke's Undercling Boulder
64
V9 Sharik's Problem Boulder

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