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Description

Intro Adelaide’s premier (only) sport climbing venue The Summit is a site to behold. Carpeted, in situ couch and mats it is a place to sit back, relax and wait for someone else to put the draws in for you! But The Summit is not for the faint hearted, the climbing is powerful and steep. Christ even the slabs are steep! The routes are predominantly bolted with either stainless expansion or glue in rings and are in good condition (at the time of writing) with most routes finishing with lower offs.

© (boardlord)

Access issues

The Access issue with the Norton summit cliff has been an ongoing one. The mining company which owns the land has allowed climbers access out of their own goodwill. There are however a few conditions which were agreed upon in order for climbers to maintain access. Most of these conditions are simple and straightforward and usually adhered to. The majority of these condi - tions are written on the sign at the base of the track. PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO READ THE SIGN if you haven’t done so already. If climbers do not follow the rules agreed to, the mining company can simply ban us from climbing on their land, no questions asked. It is in our best interests to follow the rules, tread lightly and maintain diplomatic relations with the mining company and the neighbours in the area. It is a privilege for us to be able to climb at Norton Summit, not a right, so let’s do the right thing and maintain access for all climbers. It is really that simple. Here is a brief overview of the conditions for climbing at Norton Summit.

No climbing on the upper cliffs during the peregrine nesting season (1st July - 31st November). Climbing near actual nesting sites is forbidden at all times of the year. ‘Please refer to the detailed topo regarding peregrine nesting sites and avoid these areas. Peregrines are as rare as good steep rock in the Adelaide area - so let’s preserve both. Climbing in the Lower Cave and Hole is allowed all year. Do not enter the quarry under any circumstances.

No New bolts are to be added to the cliff (only replacements).

If planning on climbing on the upper cliffs (i.e. Not the Cave or the Hole), please inform Manfred Heide (83901851)

© (boardlord)

Approach

The Summit is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, in the next valley south of Morialta. To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto The Old Norton Summit Road for 2.7km, the parking is on the right hand side. The easiest place to turn around is a small pull out 100m past the car park on the right. Once you have turned around, facing back towards town, park on the left hand side being considerate of others as there is limited space. Walk down the hill, west, and the track to the crag is on the left. Walk up the steep track taking the time to read the sign on the right. Refer to ACCESS CONSIDERATIONS for further important information regarding this topic. After the big steps the track levels off and branches, the left path to the Cave 1 min, and the right heads up the Hole, 12 secs.

© (boardlord)

Ethic

Noise levels

This is a public area so please be considerate of others by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum. Think about taking a rubbish bag with you to help keep the place clean.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts. Help keep rubbish to a minimum by removing any badly damaged mats before they create an unsightly mess.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

Sit-start with shothole left of 'The Shining Path', then make a 'Rose' move out left via 2-finger pockets to the pinch. Up to 3-finger pocket, then all the way to the top jug.

Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R.

Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug.

Come Out Fighting past the small two-finger pocket to the pinch then to the hold just under the main roof.

Short power route on the furthest left-side of 'The Hole'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Come Out Fighting extension, all the way out to the cave entrance.

FA: Mick Wells

Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain.

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given V10 as a boulder problem. Downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent, but now considered to be solid at this grade.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

Links the Shining Path into the top of Filipino Furburger

FA: Trent Searcy, 2017

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension later added by Sharik. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start. Has been soloed.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

FA: Trent Searcy, 2012

Marked. Start left of perennial seepage at the base of 'The Hole'. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break. Take a rope if doing the extension!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug.

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

aka Stugang 'Extension' 'Extension'. Stugang 'Extension' into the finish of 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'.

Start: As for Stugang.

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extesion crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

FA: Matt Adams

Stugang into the mid-section and finish of 'Wormhole'.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

Start just R of Stugang and boulder slightly right.

Stugang, then onto Filipino Chains

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes.

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave. Currently unrepeated.

FA: Fred Bonnet

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31).

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

FA: Fred Bonnet

Sit-start on undercling/pocket between Stugang Willich and Diplomacy (currently has a chalked S below). Head left through right-hand hold to gain a good left-hand undercling. Move up through a right-hand crimp to gain the first pocket on Scartrek with left-hand and finish as for this route.

FA: Seth

Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug.

A variation on 'Diplomacy'. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverseline. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension' ie. take a rope!

Start: As for 'Diplomacy'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

UPV to the big undercling, then bust direct out via a sloper to gain the Circus Street heel hook horizontal. Match and drop off. Easy V8 or top-end V7. Solid '8 if taking it to the birds nest on Dr Strike.

Finish up Dr Strike.

Ultra Pleasure Vibe into Circus Street finish.

Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here!

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt). Has been soloed.

FA: Craig Ingram?

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade. Has been soloed.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

Strike Circus to the chains at the cave entrance.

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

FA: Luke Geelen, 2000

Activity

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