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Description

Routes are described left to right facing the wall. For a more detailed guide, refer to the Climbing Club of South Australia website.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
30 Come Out Fighting Sport 8m

Short power route on the furthest left-side of 'The Hole'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

2
V3 Match Maker Boulder 2m

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

3
V5 * Boing Boulder 3m

Sit-start with shothole left of 'The Shining Path', then make a 'Rose' move out left via 2-finger pockets to the pinch. Up to 3-finger pocket, then all the way to the top jug.

4
V6 Clutch-Boing Link Boulder 4m
5
US V5 The Clutch Boulder 2m
6
V4 Swing Thing LH Boulder 2m

Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R.

7
V4 Swing Thing RH Boulder 2m

Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug.

8
V4 Pinch Punch Boulder 3m
9
30 The Shining Path Sport 7m

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given V10 as a boulder problem. Downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent, but now considered to be solid at this grade.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

10
27 Filipino Path Sport 6m

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

11
29 * Filipino Furburger Sport 9m

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension later added by Sharik. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start. Has been soloed.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

12

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

FA: Trent Searcy, 2012

13
26 V7 *** Stugang Willich Boulder

Marked. Start left of perennial seepage at the base of 'The Hole'. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break. Take a rope if doing the extension!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

14

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

15

aka Stugang 'Extension' 'Extension'. Stugang 'Extension' into the finish of 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'.

Start: As for Stugang.

16
28 ** Snack Related Mishap Sport 10m

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extesion crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

FA: Matt Adams

17

Stugang into the mid-section and finish of 'Wormhole'.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

18
V5 Asahi Dolphin Boulder

Start just R of Stugang and boulder slightly right.

19

Stugang, then onto Filipino Chains

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

20
27 * Scartrek Boulder 7m

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

21
32 Nirvanoxyne Sport

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave. Currently unrepeated.

FA: Fred Bonnet

22
29 Feral Muffins Sport 7m

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends arbitrarily at a single bolt, and is reportedly unrepeated.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

23
29 Oxygen Sport

FA: Fred Bonnet

24
V8 * Scarf**kers Inc. Boulder
26

A variation on 'Diplomacy'. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverseline. Finish as for 'Circus Street'.

Start: As for 'Diplomacy'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

27
26 * Diplomacy Half Sport
28
V5 Diplomacy Start Boulder 7m

Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here!

29
26 Diplomacy Sport

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

30
27 Diplomatic Immunity Sport 12m

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

31
25 * Dr Strike Sport 10m

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt). Has been soloed.

32
26 * Circus Doctor Sport

FA: Craig Ingram?

33
25 * Circus Street Sport 10m

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

34

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

35

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade. Has been soloed.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

36

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

FA: Luke Geelen, 2000

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