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Table of contents

1. The Hole 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.712030, -34.922164

Description:© (boardlord)

Routes are described left to right facing the wall. For a more detailed guide, refer to the Climbing Club of South Australia website.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come Out Fighting

Short power route on the furthest left-side of 'The Hole'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

30Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Match Maker

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

V3Boulder 2m
3 * Boing

Sit-start with shothole left of 'The Shining Path', then make a 'Rose' move out left via 2-finger pockets to the pinch. Up to 3-finger pocket, then all the way to the top jug.

V5Boulder 3m
4 Clutch-Boing Link V6Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 The Clutch V5Boulder 2m
6 Swing Thing LH

Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R.

V4Boulder 2m
7 Swing Thing RH

Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug.

V4Boulder 2m
8 Pinch Punch V4Boulder 3m
9 The Shining Path

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given V10 as a boulder problem. Downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent, but now considered to be solid at this grade.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

30Sport 7m
10 Filipino Path

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

27Sport 6m
11 * Filipino Furburger

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension later added by Sharik. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start. Has been soloed.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

29Sport 9m
12 Filippino Furburger Extension

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

FA: Trent Searcy, 2012

30Sport 15m
13 *** Stugang Willich

Marked. Start left of perennial seepage at the base of 'The Hole'. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break. Take a rope if doing the extension!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

26 V7Boulder
14 *** Stugang Willich Extension

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

28Sport 12m
15 Stugang and the 7 Draws

aka Stugang 'Extension' 'Extension'. Stugang 'Extension' into the finish of 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'.

Start: As for Stugang.

31Sport 16m
16 ** Snack Related Mishap

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extesion crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

FA: Matt Adams

28Sport 10m
17 Stugang Wormhole Extension

Stugang into the mid-section and finish of 'Wormhole'.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

32Sport 16m
18 Asahi Dolphin

Start just R of Stugang and boulder slightly right.

V5Boulder
19 * International Passport to Smoking Pleasure

Stugang, then onto Filipino Chains

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

27Sport 10m
20 * Scartrek

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

27Boulder 7m
21 Nirvanoxyne

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave. Currently unrepeated.

FA: Fred Bonnet

32Sport
22 Feral Muffins

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends arbitrarily at a single bolt, and is reportedly unrepeated.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

29Sport 7m
23 Oxygen

FA: Fred Bonnet

29Sport
24 * Scarf**kers Inc. V8Boulder
25 Fred's Wormhole Problem V8Boulder
26 Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000

A variation on 'Diplomacy'. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverseline. Finish as for 'Circus Street'.

Start: As for 'Diplomacy'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

29Sport 17m
27 * Diplomacy Half 26Sport
28 Diplomacy Start

Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here!

V5Boulder 7m
29 Diplomacy

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

26Sport
30 Diplomatic Immunity

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

27Sport 12m
31 * Dr Strike

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt). Has been soloed.

25Sport 10m
32 * Circus Doctor

FA: Craig Ingram?

26Sport
33 * Circus Street

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

25Sport 10m
34 Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search / Dr Strike extension

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

30Sport 12m
35 * Dr Strike's Circus / Fingering Your Date for Blood

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade. Has been soloed.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

25 to 26Sport 10m
36 * Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

FA: Luke Geelen, 2000

26Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V3 Match Maker Boulder 2m
V4 Pinch Punch Boulder 3m
Swing Thing LH Boulder 2m
Swing Thing RH Boulder 2m
25 * Circus Street Sport 10m
* Dr Strike Sport 10m
V5 Asahi Dolphin Boulder
* Boing Boulder 3m
Diplomacy Start Boulder 7m
The Clutch Boulder 2m
25 to 26 * Dr Strike's Circus Sport 10m
26 * Circus Doctor Sport
Diplomacy Sport
* Diplomacy Half Sport
* Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians Sport 10m
V6 Clutch-Boing Link Boulder 4m
27 Diplomatic Immunity Sport 12m
Filipino Path Sport 6m
* International Passport to Smoking Pleasure Sport 10m
* Scartrek Boulder 7m
26 V7 *** Stugang Willich Boulder
28 ** Snack Related Mishap Sport 10m
*** Stugang Willich Extension Sport 12m
29 Feral Muffins Sport 7m
* Filipino Furburger Sport 9m
Oxygen Sport
Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000 Sport 17m
V8 Fred's Wormhole Problem Boulder
* Scarf**kers Inc. Boulder
30 Come Out Fighting Sport 8m
Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search Sport 12m
Filippino Furburger Extension Sport 15m
The Shining Path Sport 7m
31 Stugang and the 7 Draws Sport 16m
32 Nirvanoxyne Sport
Stugang Wormhole Extension Sport 16m