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Table of contents

1. The Hole 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.712030, -34.922164

Description:© (boardlord)

Intro Adelaide’s premier (only) sport climbing venue The Summit is a site to behold. Carpeted, in situ couch and mats it is a place to sit back, relax and wait for someone else to put the draws in for you! But The Summit is not for the faint hearted, the climbing is powerful and steep. Christ even the slabs are steep! The routes are predominantly bolted with either stainless expansion or glue in rings and are in good condition (at the time of writing) with most routes finishing with lower offs.

Access Issues:© (boardlord)

The Access issue with the Norton summit cliff has been an ongoing one. The mining company which owns the land has allowed climbers access out of their own goodwill. There are however a few conditions which were agreed upon in order for climbers to maintain access. Most of these conditions are simple and straightforward and usually adhered to. The majority of these condi - tions are written on the sign at the base of the track. PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO READ THE SIGN if you haven’t done so already. If climbers do not follow the rules agreed to, the mining company can simply ban us from climbing on their land, no questions asked. It is in our best interests to follow the rules, tread lightly and maintain diplomatic relations with the mining company and the neighbours in the area. It is a privilege for us to be able to climb at Norton Summit, not a right, so let’s do the right thing and maintain access for all climbers. It is really that simple. Here is a brief overview of the conditions for climbing at Norton Summit.

No climbing on the upper cliffs during the peregrine nesting season (1st July - 31st November). Climbing near actual nesting sites is forbidden at all times of the year. ‘Please refer to the detailed topo regarding peregrine nesting sites and avoid these areas. Peregrines are as rare as good steep rock in the Adelaide area - so let’s preserve both. Climbing in the Lower Cave and Hole is allowed all year. Do not enter the quarry under any circumstances.

No New bolts are to be added to the cliff (only replacements).

If planning on climbing on the upper cliffs (i.e. Not the Cave or the Hole), please inform Manfred Heide (83901851)

Approach:© (boardlord)

The Summit is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, in the next valley south of Morialta. To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto The Old Norton Summit Road for 2.7km, the parking is on the right hand side. The easiest place to turn around is a small pull out 100m past the car park on the right. Once you have turned around, facing back towards town, park on the left hand side being considerate of others as there is limited space. Walk down the hill, west, and the track to the crag is on the left. Walk up the steep track taking the time to read the sign on the right. Refer to ACCESS CONSIDERATIONS for further important information regarding this topic. After the big steps the track levels off and branches, the left path to the Cave 1 min, and the right heads up the Hole, 12 secs.

Ethic:© (boardlord)

Noise levels

This is a public area so please be considerate of others by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum. Think about taking a rubbish bag with you to help keep the place clean.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts. Help keep rubbish to a minimum by removing any badly damaged mats before they create an unsightly mess.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Match Maker

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

V3 Boulder 2m
2 * Boing

Sit-start with shothole left of 'The Shining Path', then make a 'Rose' move out left via 2-finger pockets to the pinch. Up to 3-finger pocket, then all the way to the top jug.

V5 Boulder 3m
3 Clutch-Boing Link V6 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 The Clutch {US} V5 Boulder 2m
5 Swing Thing LH

Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R.

V4 Boulder 2m
6 Swing Thing RH

Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug.

V4 Boulder 2m
7 Pinch Punch V4 Boulder 3m
8 * Come Out Fighting Start

Come Out Fighting past the small two-finger pocket to the pinch then to the hold just under the main roof.

V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Come Out Fighting

Short power route on the furthest left-side of 'The Hole'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

30 Sport 8m
10 ** Stay in Hiding

Come Out Fighting extension, all the way out to the cave entrance.

FA: Mick Wells

31 Sport
11 French Maid

Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain.

FA: @trent_searcy

V9 Boulder
12 The Shining Path

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given V10 as a boulder problem. Downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent, but now considered to be solid at this grade.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V10 Sport 7m
13 Filipino Path

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

V8 Boulder 6m
14 * Filipino Furburger

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension later added by Sharik. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start. Has been soloed.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

29 Sport 9m
15 *** Filippino Out

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

FA: Trent Searcy, 2012

30 Sport 15m
16 *** Stugang Willich

Marked. Start left of perennial seepage at the base of 'The Hole'. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break. Take a rope if doing the extension!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

V7 Boulder
17 Stugang Ext Bloc

Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug.

V8 Boulder
18 *** Stugang Willich Extension

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

28 Sport 12m
19 Stugang and the 7 Draws

aka Stugang 'Extension' 'Extension'. Stugang 'Extension' into the finish of 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'.

Start: As for Stugang.

31 Sport 16m
20 ** Snack Related Mishap

Start as for Stugang and climb this through the extesion crux, then finish as for 'Circus Street'.

FA: Matt Adams

V8 Sport 10m
21 Stugang Wormhole Extension

Stugang into the mid-section and finish of 'Wormhole'.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

32 Sport 16m
22 Asahi Dolphin

Start just R of Stugang and boulder slightly right.

V5 Boulder
23 * International Passport to Smoking Pleasure

Stugang, then onto Filipino Chains

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

27 Sport 10m
24 * Scartrek

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

V7 Boulder 7m
25 Scartrek Diplomacy Linkup

Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes.

V8 Sport
26 Nirvanoxyne

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave. Currently unrepeated.

FA: Fred Bonnet

32 Sport
27 Feral Muffins

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31).

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V10 Boulder 7m
28 Oxygen

FA: Fred Bonnet

29 Sport
29 * Scarf**kers Inc. V8 Boulder
30 Fred's Wormhole Problem V8 Boulder
31 Ultra Pleasure Vibe Bloc

Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug.

V8 Boulder
32 ** Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000

A variation on 'Diplomacy'. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverseline. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension' ie. take a rope!

Start: As for 'Diplomacy'.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

29 Sport 17m
33 * UPV Variant Bloc

UPV to the big undercling, then bust direct out via a sloper to gain the Circus Street heel hook horizontal. Match and drop off. Easy V8 or top-end V7. Solid '8 if taking it to the birds nest on Dr Strike.

V7 Boulder
34 Snak 'n Cowboy

Ultra Pleasure Vibe into Circus Street finish.

FA: @matta

28 Sport
35 * Diplomacy Half V7 Boulder
36 Diplomacy Start

Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here!

V5 Boulder 7m
37 Diplomacy

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

V7 Boulder
38 Diplomatic Immunity

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

27 Sport 12m
39 * Dr Strike

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt). Has been soloed.

25 Sport 10m
40 * Circus Doctor

FA: Craig Ingram?

26 Sport
41 * Circus Street

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

25 Sport 10m
42 Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search / Dr Strike extension

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

FA: Frederic Bonnet, 2000

30 Sport 12m
43 * Dr Strike's Circus / Fingering Your Date for Blood

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade. Has been soloed.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

25 to 26 Sport 10m
44 Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

FA: Luke Geelen, 2000

26 Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V3 Match Maker Boulder 2m
V4 Pinch Punch Boulder 3m
Swing Thing LH Boulder 2m
Swing Thing RH Boulder 2m
25 * Circus Street Sport 10m
* Dr Strike Sport 10m
V5 Asahi Dolphin Boulder
* Boing Boulder 3m
Diplomacy Start Boulder 7m
The Clutch Boulder 2m
25 to 26 * Dr Strike's Circus Sport 10m
26 * Circus Doctor Sport
Gorgeous Guys and Lipstick Lesbians Sport 10m
V6 Clutch-Boing Link Boulder 4m
* Come Out Fighting Start Boulder
27 Diplomatic Immunity Sport 12m
* International Passport to Smoking Pleasure Sport 10m
V7 Diplomacy Boulder
* Diplomacy Half Boulder
* Scartrek Boulder 7m
*** Stugang Willich Boulder
* UPV Variant Bloc Boulder
28 Snak 'n Cowboy Sport
*** Stugang Willich Extension Sport 12m
29 * Filipino Furburger Sport 9m
Oxygen Sport
** Ultra Pleasure Vibe 2000 Sport 17m
V8 Filipino Path Boulder 6m
Fred's Wormhole Problem Boulder
* Scarf**kers Inc. Boulder
Scartrek Diplomacy Linkup Sport
** Snack Related Mishap Sport 10m
Stugang Ext Bloc Boulder
Ultra Pleasure Vibe Bloc Boulder
30 Come Out Fighting Sport 8m
Dr Strike into the Wormhole Search Sport 12m
*** Filippino Out Sport 15m
V9 French Maid Boulder
31 ** Stay in Hiding Sport
Stugang and the 7 Draws Sport 16m
V10 Feral Muffins Boulder 7m
The Shining Path Sport 7m
32 Nirvanoxyne Sport
Stugang Wormhole Extension Sport 16m