The Bachelor Pad Mostly bouldering

57 routes in crag

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Description

Intro

The densest area of boulder routes in the Adelaide region.

NOTE: The same regulations apply here as to the main area of Norton Summit (i.e. no climbing after sunset or on fire-ban days). Try to keep noise pollution to a minimum, stick to the walking trails and take your rubbish with you.

Approach

General Location

The Pad is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, about 1km down hill from The Summit. (The climbing area not the actual summit!) To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto The Old Norton Summit Road for 1.5km, there is a small pullout for parking left hand side opposite a large stand of bamboo.

There isn’t much parking here so be courteous of others, there are a few extra parking spaces further up the hill. The track up to The Pad is located on the otherside of the road (south) just next to the bamboo (downhill) Cross the guardrail and you will see the track heading across the creek and up the hill. It take about 10 minutes of up hill slog to reach the cliff.

The location marked on the map has the point of the triangle at the beginning of the trail on the Old Norton Summit Road. The base of the triangle is at the cave itself.

Ethic

Noise levels

This is a public area so please be considerate of others by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum. Think about taking a rubbish bag with you to help keep the place clean.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts. Take only foam mats to leave at the pad, no coil mattresses. Help keep rubbish to a minimum by removing any badly damaged mats before they create an unsightly mess.

Track maintenance

Track maintenance is the responsibility of any climber that chooses to frequent the Pad. The track becomes virtually impossible to use in periods of rain (see below) and in its current state will only get worse (hard to imagine). Voluntary work by CCSA members and other climbers that visit this site is welcomed.

History

On first acquaintance with this place you could be forgiven for thinking that the 40+ problems listed in this guide must be an error, for the place known as The Bachelor Pad doesn’t exactly look like a bouldering ‘mecca’. Shorter than the length of Sissy Crag (NSW), not as high as Lindfield, The Fear Factory or Akuna Bay (NSW), and less inspiring than Trackside or Anderson’s (Vic) – it is nevertheless home to the hardest problems in South Australia.

Not only that, but it is also less than 20 minutes drive from the city, 3 minutes drive from a pub, and stays dry in the rain. What more could you want? Difficulty ranges from V0-V13, with just under half of the problems sub-V6, and all the rest being mainly in the V6-V10 bracket. Topping the scale are the problems of Austria’s Klem Loskot (Madball sit start – V13) and ex-local boy Sharik Walker (Tao and Butchers – both V12).

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 The One Legged Cougar Boulder 3m

Far left hand side of cliff. Stand-start off chalked horizontal, then up left then back right following the line of least resistance to the positive holds under the roof.

2
23 Bachelor Blend Sport 14m, 3

Start up "Fat Neck" to the first bolt, continue out through the roof.

FA: Simon Wilson, Stuart Williams, 1995

3
V1 Fat Neck Boulder 3m

Sit-start on big, flat, horizontal chalked jug. Place feet so they are off the ledge you are sitting on, then head up via a gaston pinch, a V-slot and some crimps to a jug directly above.

4
V3 * The Fish Boulder 4m

Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold.

5
V4 *** Free Mahi Mahi Boulder 3m

Same start as Fat Neck. Head R and up into underclings and side-pulls. Then continue R past the bolt via crux moves using a crimp rail to reach the finish jug of The Bone.

6
V6 Free Mahi Mahi Direct Boulder 3m

Free Mahi Mahi to the sloper then right to the small undercling in the roof and up via the big LH sidepull and crimps.

7
V2 Catch Mahi Boulder 3m

Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof.

8
V5 Red Snapper Boulder 3m

Foot eliminate. Start as for Catch Mahi, then rightwards across underclings and KMWISF start holds, into The Bone and finishing for this problem. Keep feet above the slightly off-horizontal seam at the base.

9

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

10
V2 The Bone Boulder 3m

Sit start bellow and 1m R of the U-shaped jug, finish in the big jug under roof.

11
V3 Faith Boulder 3m

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

12
V2 The Bone, Double Dyno Boulder 3m

Match both hands in the U-shaped jug of The Bone, then launch (double-handed) diagonally leftwards for the finish of Mahi Mahi.

13
V2 Royale Boulder 4m

Start on the big sidepull, up diagonally left through serrated edges to the horizontal break, continue up past the letterbox fininshing out right on the hanging block. Pad it up well!

14
V0 Derf Boulder 3m

Sit-start on chalked block. Up and slightly left to jugs at the break.

15

various warm up lines and traverses throughout the pad

16
V2 * Warm Up Double Dyno Boulder 3m

double-hand dyno from the obvious jugs to the big rounded hold in the break.

17
V0 Buttworth Boulder 3m

Sit-start on jug rail. Up to roof on jugs.

18
V4 Jacques the Potato Boulder 3m

Sit-start with underclings/side-pulls on blocky feature under the start of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse line. Paste the feet on and dyno (or lock!) to pointy jug, then more easily up to jugs on traverse line. Finish easily up and left.

19
28 The Grind Sport 14m, 4

The line of side-pulls/laybacks through the middle roof.

FA: Steve Pollard, 2003

20
V2 * Chocolate Boulder 2m

Pull on at massive bucket halfway along traverse line (start of Chinese Nuggets). Motor right past a pinch, a pocket and some cruxier holds to reach the sharp jug at the right-hand end, just below and right of the big sloper finish of Twist & Shout.

21

Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper.

FA: Andy Beckworth

22
V0+ * Chinese Nuggets Boulder 3m

Standing start. From huge jug in middle of traverse line go up and left to jug pocket, then up.

23

"Chinese Nuggets" without feet.

24

Start as for Chocolate Aftertaste High but drop down to low level traverse from jugs using LH pocket/sidepull. Motor rightwards via a good open pocket and a ‘fin’ pinch, then into the original line at the 'drop down' pocket. Finish as for Chocolate Aftertaste High.

FA: Luke Geelen

25
V10 ** Hot Chocolate Boulder 3m

An old local project nabbed by the raiding Austrians! Sitting start just right of Jacques on LH sidepull and RH good undercling, then into and through Aftertaste Low Traverse (sidepull pocket and fin hold) and finishing straight up.

FA: Klem Loskot

26

Sit-start with LH on undercling crimp and RH on chalked pinch. Get up and into Chocolate Aftertaste Low, then finish as for Chinese Nuggets.

FA: Sharik Walker

27
V8 Living or Exisiting Boulder 3m

Starts RH on SGF’s LH start hold and LH on a pinch/crimp near the lip. Pull on, then bust LH out to pockets and head up to finish for Chinese Nuggets.

FA: Luke Geelen

28
V8 ** Secret Gay Fantasy Boulder 3m

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 3-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then dyno out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then dyno up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line.

29
V7 ** Potato Aftertaste Low Boulder 2m

Jacques the Potato into Chocolate Aftertaste Low.

30
V4 * The Pinch Boulder 3m

Start with LH on the SGF lip hold and a polished rounded crimp adjacent (right) of it. Bust a move (LH) to the pinch on Aftertaste Low traverse then hit the jug line of the upper traverse. Finishing as for The Ballroom Slap.

31
V3 * The Ballroom Slap Boulder 3m

Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break.

FA: Steve Kelly

32
V4 One Five Boulder 2m

Hold large bucket LH and smaller slightly higher jug RH. Make a footless campus move to the high flat jug.

33
V6 One Five Nine Boulder 3m

Campus from the large bucket (LH) on the Aftertaste Traverse and slightly higher smaller jug (RH) to the high flat jug, then without matching go again RH to the top! 1-5-9 standard campus measurement.

34

The stand start variant to Twist and Shout, starts on large underclings followed by 3 big moves, finishing on a sloper.

35
V9 *** Twist & Shout Boulder 2m

Sitstart – then out across the bad crimpers/slopers on the lip. RH crescent sidepull, then left into undercling right into undercling paste right foot on and go to the triangle pinch out left (in traverse line) – then straight up to the sloper (via intermediate pinch) – and match.

FA: Klem Loskot

36
V8 ** Benelli's Extension Boulder 2m

Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopes then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of 'Shout'.

FA: Toni Lamprecht

37

Start on sloper and RH sloper/crimp at the end of the Benelli’s traverse (just under the underclings). Left foot on lip, then up into the good underclings. Out to the sharp jug, then cross into the good finish hold of Chocolate and finish matched on the big sloper.

38
V8 *** Kid Indestructible Boulder 2m

Start as for Twist & Shout but finish up the big underclings on the far right.

FA: Sharik Walker

39
V4 * The Sharik Dyno Boulder 3m

Starts on the finish hold of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse (jug) – then huge dyno to obvious break. How many mats have you got?

FA: Sharik Walker

40

The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start.

41
V7 Madball Minus One Boulder 3m

(Starts on the polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Follows 'Madball')

42

Starts LH undercling and RH pocket (Crux) – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Very solid at the grade.

FA: Toni Lamprecht

43
V13 ** Madball Sit-start Boulder 3m

sit-start extension of "Madball"

44
V8 *** Cocktoe Boulder 3m

Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a fingery undercling (optional), then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch (often wet), finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold.

FA: Sharik Walker

45
V6 ** Stalker Boulder 3m

Starts back of cave with feet on rock platform. Through ‘bunny ears’ undercling, out to large sloper hold, then out to obvious ‘shark fin’ hold on lip and up. Finish on large sloper/jug out and left past niche.

46
V6 Stalker Extension Boulder 4m

4-move extension to Stalker - finishing on Tao.

FA: Trev

47
V12 Tao Boulder 4m

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and a large sidepull slap.

FA: Sharik Walker

48
V12 Butchers Boulder 4m

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and seeping pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. If you climb this then do the entire finish of Cocktoe it’s V9/10.

FA: Sharik Walker

49

FA: Trev; seth

50

Climb Stalker to shark tooth jug then pop left into Cocktoe's pocket and finish as for Cocktoe.

Stalker, to the left hand jug/rail, then move into the pinch loaf of Cocktoe and finish for that problem. It seems this problem was given the grade of V9/10 in a recent guidebook....

51
V3 Snowball Boulder 4m

Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right.

52
13 The Butternuts Trad 11m

This and the following 5 climbs are included for historical purposes only! On the scrappy cliff 50m down R of the bouldering crag. This climb goes straight up the wall about 3m R of the alcove at the L end.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Badenoch

53
16 Road to Ruin Trad 12m

The rising diagonal trench beginning near The Butternuts. Some holds can't be trusted.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

54
14 Victoria's Secret Trad 11m

Start 1.5m R of The Butternuts. Up into the short V-groove in the middle of the wall then move R and head for the tombstone up top.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh

55
17 No Push No Baby Trad 11m

Start 1.5m R of Victoria's Secret and head up the orange rock. Aim for the hanging slab at the top, passing the slender 'jug of death' at 5m. Take a #0.4 cam. The best climb here!

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh, Mark Witham

56

Start 1m L of the vague nose and 1m R of NPNB. Up to the diagonal crack, move R for a large cam then up the brittle wall to a stance. Finish up the small corner on the R. Take a #0.75 cam.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Clare Randall

57
15 My Degeneration Trad 9m

An exciting start just R of the vague nose to a small ledge. Continue up (#000 cam) and slightly L to finish as for NDE.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Vicki Kavanagh, Mark Witham

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