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Description:

About 30m right of the slab wall is a grotto feature that has some great steeper walls. It features one of the crag classics Axis of Evil which tackles the impressively overhung buttress in the back of the grotto.

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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Every Holds A Spinner

Start on front of boulder just right of large tree

Up steeply through slopeyness to head wall and

final arête to anchors. Contains some funky

moves as the rock is tilted so none of the breaks

are horizontal.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

23
Sport 15m
2 *** Arc de l'Ecce Homo

First route in the canyon

Up short punchy wall to slab and tend up and

right to final pump moves of desert storm and shared

anchor.

FA: Bundy, 2006

22
Sport 16m
3 * Desert Storm

Start on the left of orange wall.

Up scooped rock to big flake then climb the steep

orange wall to lower off below cave.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

21
Sport 15m
4 Intifada

2m right of DS below orange arête. A bouldery start leads to a bongo drum bolt and rest. Finish up the steep orange wall and arête.

FA: Chris "Lincoln" Fox, 2005

19
Sport 12m
5 Escape Artist

Just right of 'Intifada'. Mantel up to scoops then up to cave. Head out via steep scoop and tend right to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

19
Sport 10m
6 War Of Aggression

In middle of black wall under big white horn. 'Steep' slopey start past 3 bolts to comfortable rest then continue up the committing crimpy headwall past three more bolts to lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith,

23
Sport 15m
7 *** Axis of Evil

On left side of the narrow steep scooped wall. Up the scoop on jugs and fantastically solid rock to crimpy face, then continue to rest and launch through final bulge to anchor. Take care when cleaning in order to avoid swinging into boulder behind the belayer. Overhangs 5m in 18m! Crag Classic, a test piece for the grade in 'Nowra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

24
Sport 18m
8 * Evil Solution

A link up but worthwhile as its so long. Head up Axis past the first five bolts (don't clip the sixth or you will get killer rope drag). Hand traverse right and finish up the last five bolts of the Final Solution.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

25
Sport 25m
9 * The Final Solution

Start: just right of AoE. Solo up corner to ledge with care as you reach the top. Head up wall to 2nd bolt then do some unlikely thin moves (just right of Axis) to reach break. Tend right through scoops to jugs and launch up steep wall to cave. Sneak Mcdougall rest at cave and continue up final wall to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

25
Sport 20m
10 Trench Warfare

Start: on right side of pyramid shaped block Climb right side of block to ledge then up hand crack to off width and up to cliff top. TRAD

FA: Howie McGhie, Chris Fox, 2000

17
Trad 22m
11 Open Project

Up akward looking crack. Then join into Bundy project.

Sport 20m
12 Bundy - Project

Start in back of the canyon. Best for belayer to be down below the start. Up and around blunt prowl thingo. Up and over small rooflet and onto jugs to top of cliff. Maybe take a small cam for the run out section under the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport