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Description

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

© (Ashy)

Approach

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

© (Ashy)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 * Dickman And Throbbin Sport 12m

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

2
25 ** The Duralax Kid Sport 12m

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

3
29 * Black Flag Sport 15m

FA: George Fieg, 1996

4
28 * Black Rage Sport 15m

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

5
27 ** Maintain The Rage Sport 15m

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

6
27 ** Brown Badge Sport 17m, 9

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.

Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

7
31 * Sperm Bitches Sport 8m

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

8
30 Physical Graffiti Sport 15m

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg

9

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

10

The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

11
Project Sport 12m
12
30 Crenshaw Boulevarde Sport 10m

FA: George Fieg, 1998

13

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

14
28 ** Public Domain Sport 12m

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

15
27 ** Comin' At Ya Hyper Sport 12m

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

16
26 ** Red Baron Sport 10m, 4

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

17
31 *** Dungeon Master Sport 20m

FA: George Fieg, 1995

18
26 ** Mega Death Sport 10m

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

19
27 ** Mega Death Direct Sport 10m

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

20
23 * No Name Sport 9m

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

21

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

22
25 * Scum Sport 10m

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

23
29 Scumbag Sport 20m

FA: Zac Vetrees

24
26 Scumy Sex Sport 10m

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

25
26 ** Sex Machine Sport 10m

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

26
23 ** Crime Is Art Sport 10m

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

27

Caution: Old rusty hangers have just about fallen out.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

28
23 * Art Is Fucked Sport 8m

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

29
22 * Hunted Child Sport 8m

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

30
23 * Strike Sport 7m

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

31
19 * Silver Hands Sport 9m

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

32
21 * Bag Of Sand Sport 8m

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

33
23 KKK Bitch Sport 8m

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

34
21 * Itchy Quims Sport 9m

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

35
19 Burping Burgers Sport 8m

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

36
24 * Poo With Me Sport 9m

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

37

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

38
24 ** Word Up Sport 12m

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

39
24 * Hard At It Sport 9m
40
23 ** Dungeon Dykes Sport 7m

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

41
21 ** Torra Torra Pass Sport 6m

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

42
17 Bush Bash Sport 5m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

43
17 ** Slippery When Wet Sport 6m

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

44

FA: Greame Hill, 1997