South Central All sport climbing44 routes in area
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For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.
The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.
So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.© (Ashy)
Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.© (Ashy)
Ethic inherited from Illawarra
Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.
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FA: George Fieg, 1996
Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.
Start: Start as for BB.
FA: Chris Wallace, 1995
Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.
Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.
FA: Paul Westwood, 1994
3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.
FA: Paul Westwood, 1995
Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.
FA: George Fieg
Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.
Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.
FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999
The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.
Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993