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South Central 42 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 11m
  • Style: All Sport
  • Favorites: 4
  • Ascents: 1,132
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Description:© (Ashy)

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Dickman And Throbbin

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25
Sport 12m
2 ** The Duralax Kid

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

25
Sport 12m
3 * Black Flag

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29
Sport 15m
4 * Black Rage

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

28
Sport 15m
5 ** Maintain The Rage

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

27
Sport 15m
6 ** Brown Badge

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.

Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

27
Sport 17m , 9
7 * Sperm Bitches

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

31
Sport 8m
8 Physical Graffiti

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg,

30
Sport 15m
9 ** Plastic Exploding Inevitable

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

29
Sport 20m
10 *** Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone / Ain't No Sunshine

The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

28
Sport 15m
11 Crenshaw Boulevarde

FA: George Fieg, 1998

30
Sport 10m
12 ** Public Domain

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

28
Sport 12m
13 * Comin' At Ya Hyper

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

27
Sport 12m
14 ** Red Baron

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

26
Sport 10m , 4
15 *** Dungeon Master

FA: George Fieg, 1995

31
Sport 20m
16 ** Mega Death

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

26
Sport 10m
17 ** Mega Death Direct

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

27
Sport 10m
18 * No Name

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

23
Sport 9m
19 * There Goes The Neighourhood

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

24
Sport 9m
20 * Scum

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

25
Sport 10m
21 Scumbag

FA: Zac Vetrees,

29
Sport 20m
22 Scumy Sex

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

26
Sport 10m
23 ** Sex Machine

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

26
Sport 10m
24 ** Crime Is Art

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

23
Sport 10m
25 Two Bolts And Not For Me

Caution: Old rusty hangers have just about fallen out.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

23 X
Sport 9m
26 * Art Is Fucked

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

23
Sport 8m
27 Hunted Child

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

22
Sport 8m
28 * Strike

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23
Sport 7m
29 * Silver Hands

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

19
Sport 9m
30 * Bag Of Sand

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

21
Sport 8m
31 KKK Bitch

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23
Sport 8m
32 * Itchy Quims

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

21
Sport 9m
33 Burping Burgers

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

19
Sport 8m
34 * Poo With Me

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24
Sport 9m
35 ** Poo With Me (Right variant)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24
Sport 9m
36 ** Word Up

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

24
Sport 12m
37 * Hard At It
24
Sport 9m
38 ** Dungeon Dykes

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

23
Sport 7m
39 ** Torra Torra Pass

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

21
Sport 6m
40 Bush Bash

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

17
Sport 5m
41 ** Slippery When Wet

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

17
Sport 6m
42 ** Word Up (Direct Variant)

FA: Greame Hill, 1997

24
Sport 9m
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