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Description

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

© (Ashy)

Approach

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

© (Ashy)

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

FA: George Fieg, 1996

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.

Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

FA: George Fieg, 1998

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

FA: George Fieg, 1995

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

FA: Zac Vetrees

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

Not the original start but rebolted and fun. Start up Art is Fucked and head left at the rail for 2 bolts. Finish up to rusty looking chain or add some extra excitement and go up to Crime is Art anchors.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

FA: Greame Hill, 1997

Activity

Check out what is happening in South Central.